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Discussion Starter #1
I just did the steering mod on my car to fit the Mustang headers and Summit H-pipe.

Trying to save a few bucks I put a used factory u-joint in the middle with a Flaming River lower. That was a no-no! There is a slight bind every 1/4 turn because the yokes are out of phase. Thought about heating and twisting the shaft, but steering is nothing to play with like that. The new $70 middle u-joint will be here today.

For the firewall I used 16 ga. steel sheet. Now I hear everything under the hood. Some of the sound could be from the bearing solidly mounting the shaft to the sheetmetal. I reused the rubber seal to mount the sheetmetal.

Anyone have an idea on a soundproofing material?
 

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Dynomat. Or Home Insulation, same stuff.
 

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icantdrive55 said:
I just did the steering mod on my car to fit the Mustang headers and Summit H-pipe.

Trying to save a few bucks I put a used factory u-joint in the middle with a Flaming River lower. That was a no-no! There is a slight bind every 1/4 turn because the yokes are out of phase. Thought about heating and twisting the shaft, but steering is nothing to play with like that. The new $70 middle u-joint will be here today.

For the firewall I used 16 ga. steel sheet. Now I hear everything under the hood. Some of the sound could be from the bearing solidly mounting the shaft to the sheetmetal. I reused the rubber seal to mount the sheetmetal.

Anyone have an idea on a soundproofing material?
How hard was it to get to everything? I assume that the engine is still in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Woot- found a Summit box on the front porch when I got back from wiping out the sandbass and crappie at the lake. 1 little u-joint in a big ole box.

It's pretty straight forward and easy. A long extention and socket will get on every bolt. I used a chopsaw, handheld cutoff wheel, die grinder with carbide bit and a bench grinder.

There is already a hole for the support bearing, just needs to be ground bigger. Washers for the support bearing came from radius arm bushings of something..might've even been off my 'bird.

Just make sure the u-joints can't come loose from the shaft. That's the reason I used a factory middle joint- the thru bolt looked safer and much cheaper too. The Flaming River uses little bitty setscrews. Too bad the out of phase condition caused binding :( Looking at factory u-joints most appear 45* out of phase to be 100% bind free. The Flaming River ones line up parallel like the yokes of a driveshaft.

Unfortunately the midmount Magnaflow won't be here for a couple weeks, so I should have found one on ebay for $50 instead of over $100. I'm dying to remove the smog pump and egr and get those '93 frpp 'stang headers with offroad H-pipe installed.

I'm just hoping it doesn't lean out too bad to see a power increase. The 1 5/8 header tubes look as big as the factory downtubes that dump into those restrictive cats.

Many thanks to 392bird for detailing this mod.
 

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icantdrive55 said:
Woot- found a Summit box on the front porch when I got back from wiping out the sandbass and crappie at the lake. 1 little u-joint in a big ole box.

It's pretty straight forward and easy. A long extention and socket will get on every bolt. I used a chopsaw, handheld cutoff wheel, die grinder with carbide bit and a bench grinder.

There is already a hole for the support bearing, just needs to be ground bigger. Washers for the support bearing came from radius arm bushings of something..might've even been off my 'bird.

Just make sure the u-joints can't come loose from the shaft. That's the reason I used a factory middle joint- the thru bolt looked safer and much cheaper too. The Flaming River uses little bitty setscrews. Too bad the out of phase condition caused binding :( Looking at factory u-joints most appear 45* out of phase to be 100% bind free. The Flaming River ones line up parallel like the yokes of a driveshaft.

Unfortunately the midmount Magnaflow won't be here for a couple weeks, so I should have found one on ebay for $50 instead of over $100. I'm dying to remove the smog pump and egr and get those '93 frpp 'stang headers with offroad H-pipe installed.

I'm just hoping it doesn't lean out too bad to see a power increase. The 1 5/8 header tubes look as big as the factory downtubes that dump into those restrictive cats.

Many thanks to 392bird for detailing this mod.

What did you have to cut exactly? Also, what headers are you going to use? Do you think 1 3/4" primaries would work for the headers?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You have to cut the double d shaft and a piece of metal to cover the hole in the firewall. I also cut the metal out of the upper right corner of the rubber boot so I could mount the gas pedal on the little plastic/rubber spacer. The upper u-joint needs to be ground out for the dd shaft to fit.

I'm using frpp shorties for a '93 mustang and haven't fitted them yet.

There is a crapload of room on the driver side for 1 3/4" headers IF they clear the motor mount and the front area. I could put my leg through where a collector would go. I would take a pic but 392bird already has a bunch. http://members.tccoa.com/392bird/birdworka1.htm
I went with the frpp shorties because they were cheap and stainless.

I think 1 3/4" would lose a bunch of bottom end, but that might be good if you smoke your tires.
 

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Don't you just love how the new steering shaft looks?
I think mine is pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just put the new u-joint in today. No more binding and sealing it up helped with the noise, or maybe I got used to it.

The road feel is awesome. The steering seems much tighter than before. Rag joints are for luxo-barges.
 

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Has anyone ever did a tech article about this. I am thinking about a 351 right now and need the space. Us less tech oriented people would love a step by step on this so I can give it to my mechanic :D What is needed and how is this done? How long would this take me down for and would this be helpful with sticking in the 351?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is all you need----> http://members.tccoa.com/392bird/birdworka1.htm
Mock everything up first..of course.
Make sure you drill holes in the shaft for the setscrews and use loctite, don't trim the setscrews. If you line the flat spot of the steering gear up with the setscrew on the u-joint the steering wheel points at 10 o'clock. Thats fine for me since there is enough adjustment in the tie rods to straighten the wheel. It's mostly mechanical common sense but I did backtrack when trying to use a factory u-joint in the middle.

I might post some pics when I have time.

Mustang h-pipes are too narrow at the crossmember and the frpp shortys for 93 down mustangs hit the driver side motor mount. '94 mustang headers might clear.

Had to chop the h-pipe [its not an h-pipe anymore :rolleyes: ] and bent some new pipe to enter the Magnaflow. The driver side header hit the motor mount so it was heated and bent to clear.

I made sure each exhaust valve was closed and ground the thermactor bumps off the exhaust ports while the headers were off. I merely plugged the egr and smog tube with rubber caps for now. The left hand o2 wire needed lengthening.

The Magnaflow is dumped right before the gas tank and I'm definitely going to need tailpipes and mufflers.

The power increase was amazing. Motor was still pulling strong at 5700 but I got scared and shifted before it went BOOM :) With factory exhaust it slowed down at 4900 or so. Down low the power seems the same.
 

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ThunderCentral said:
Here is one I did. Graham. Addendum, etc
Based on what I see with your instructions, your setup is not safe in any way. How do you keep the two joints from floppy besides letting them rest on the header? You are missing a key component based on the pics you are showing. Be very careful with that since you may lose steering control since you don't have an anchor point for the middle shaft.
 

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the section of shaft between the two U-joints do NOT need to be `surported' Aslong as the shaft from the Steering Head (Steering wheel) is Solidly mounted with least 2 Steady bearings.. and you really do not need an extra surport bearing...

NOW if there was a Double U-joint, or 3 u-joints, then you may have to use a surport bearing..

Personally i would of gotten rid of the upper (inside) U-joint and gotten like a fmalimg rivers, I-did-it `coupler' to make it a `soild' shaft from Steering head to the first outside U-joint...

at work we have a steering coloum that has two Needle bearings.. that then goes into a U-joint, then a 3/4" DD shaft then to another U-joint and onto the RP no surport bearings on any shafts.. very solid steering coloum/shaft
 

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Unsafe shaft

The upper shaft is supported at the lower end by a bearing in the firewall plate.
This is 100% safe. The lower shaft does not require a support in the middle. As I am a licensed mechanic and hold a government safety inspection certificate I woud not do any mods that are unsafe. Graham.
 

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ThunderCentral said:
As I am a licensed mechanic and hold a government safety inspection certificate I woud not do any mods that are unsafe. Graham.
On top of that.. you wouldn't allow your Son to drive a car that was unsafe... :D

Techincally you do not need a surport bearing unless there is 3 or more Universals.. and since most people have the surport bearing at the wirewall.. that's enough surport for the shaft that has 3 universal..
 

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Technically all of our steering mods are unsafe, as they do not include a collapsable shafts. In a head on collision with out the collapsable shaft the steering wheel could end up in your teeth.

The part marked "discard" in his picture is the "weak link" during a collision and would bend easily as compared to the solid shafts.
[/IMG]

Kyle
 

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Oc3digital said:
Technically all of our steering mods are unsafe, as they do not include a collapsable shafts. In a head on collision with out the collapsable shaft the steering wheel could end up in your teeth.
The part marked "discard" in his picture is the "weak link" during a collision and would bend easily as compared to the solid shafts.
True in that effect.. But the part marked `discard' slides over the other shaft that he has `Messure and cut here' and that's where the collapsing part comes into play.. also i think where the two `t's join.. they can Sheer too.. not 100% shure on that one..
Click here for pic
but didn't Graham used a Collapsable section from a Aerostar?? yes it won't collapase as much though.. but you still have the sheering point just under the first U-joint...
 

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tbird50sport said:
It Would be great if I can somehow see http://members.tccoa.com/392bird/birdworka1.htm. I am about to do the steering mod and would like to have as much info as i need and cant seem to find any.

Thanks for your help on this.

P.S. Is the rack on a 92 tbird a 3/4"-36 spline??? (trying to find the right u-joints)

Bottom u joint FR1715DD 3/4-36 X 3/4DD

Note:
Sir William said he was in the process of restoring the web page.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Center U joint FR1716DD 3/4DD X 3/4DD 1 @ 65 65
Bottom u joint FR1715DD 3/4-36 X 3/4DD 1 @ 65 65
Shaft FR1850 18in x 3/4DD shafting 2 @ 19 38
Support bearing FR1810 Support 1 @ 27 27
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195

Copy/pasted this from 392 birds article.

I used one 36in. shaft instead if 2 smaller ones.

Found the flange bearing here --> http://bakerperformanceparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=600
 
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