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Discussion Starter #1
I am interested in getting a lighter weight rack for my car, and possibly going to a manual rack. This winter the car goes under the wrench and gets its new bullet proof heart, and I am doing away with the AC for simplicity and weight savings. I was thinking about doing a manual rack as well at the time, and dumping the steering pump and lines. Could someone please shed some light as to who if anyone makes a manual rack that will work in our cars. Chris
 

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I will be looking into the same thing this coming Winter when my play money funds recover. By then I hope to have more weight off the car, and have some skinnies on the front that will make a manual rack workable on these. I plan on going to a electric water pump at the same time.
 

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How much does our stock rack weigh, and how much power does it really take from the engine?

I can't imagine as heavy a car as ours with manual steering - especially with the fat tires we all like to put on.
 

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Yep, if any where near stock weight, manual steering is not a option. If you have reduced weight, then it can be a option. I have my Bird well below SN95 Mustang weight, and still dropping. Getting the weight off, for a weekend play car is not so hard. I am looking for 3200-3300 lb area by Winter. Then a set of skinney tires and manual rack will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I am going with the aluminum block in my current build up....so there goes 80lbs. Plus I plan on going wit the tubular K-member as well (hopefully its price comes down by then some and the small issues with it are resolved). Plus I am getting rid of the AC. I have already removed the washer fluid resevoir all its hoses, wiper arms and assembly, and wiper motor. Battery is in the trunk and I plan od ditching the rear seats for a custom rear seat delete like they sell for the mustangs....Plus that darn Rear SC folding seat is sooo heavy. I never let anyone in the back seat either, the seat belts are all removed already.
 

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Just use your stock rack and plumb the in directly into the out using SS line. Put a T in the middle so you can bleed the system. I did it. Steering sucks until you're doing 10mph. Parallel parking is like a trip to the gym. It's not too, too bad as long as you're rolling. Better to not turn at a dead stop anyways for the sake of the tires.
 

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thebigslide said:
Just use your stock rack and plumb the in directly into the out using SS line. Put a T in the middle so you can bleed the system. I did it. Steering sucks until you're doing 10mph. Parallel parking is like a trip to the gym. It's not too, too bad as long as you're rolling. Better to not turn at a dead stop anyways for the sake of the tires.
You put alot of stress on the steering shaft and joints - not to mention the rubber coupler. - It's not meant for that. Since the assist is happening below the shaft you don't put much torque on it normally.

If you want safe manual steering you should replace the shaft with some flaming river u joints and shafts - those are beefy and meant to handle the twisting force required to turn the wheel with no assist.
 

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Kentwood said:
You put alot of stress on the steering shaft and joints - not to mention the rubber coupler. - It's not meant for that. Since the assist is happening below the shaft you don't put much torque on it normally.

If you want safe manual steering you should replace the shaft with some flaming river u joints and shafts - those are beefy and meant to handle the twisting force required to turn the wheel with no assist.

You know, I never even thought of that :) I have relocated my steering shaft for header clearance, so it never occurred to me. The other thing is that the rack is not meant to be run like that, so I'm almost positive it will experience premature wear. The thing it, if you want to upgrade anyways, why not do this first and buy another rack later.

Kentwood is absolutely right about replacing that stock coupler, tho. It would suck to have that rip on your and leave you stranded. I wouldn't worry about the shaft, tho. I am using a modified aerostar shaft with is the same OD and it doesn't flex AT ALL.
 

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thebigslide said:
You know, I never even thought of that :) I have relocated my steering shaft for header clearance, so it never occurred to me. The other thing is that the rack is not meant to be run like that, so I'm almost positive it will experience premature wear. The thing it, if you want to upgrade anyways, why not do this first and buy another rack later.

Kentwood is absolutely right about replacing that stock coupler, tho. It would suck to have that rip on your and leave you stranded. I wouldn't worry about the shaft, tho. I am using a modified aerostar shaft with is the same OD and it doesn't flex AT ALL.
Yeah, what I meant by shaft was the weak *** joints
 

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been thinking of removing the ps along with the a/c but one of things i keep debating about the ps in my head is that these cars already out handle 90% of cars out there, do i want to lose that???
 

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mn12xr7 said:
been thinking of removing the ps along with the a/c but one of things i keep debating about the ps in my head is that these cars already out handle 90% of cars out there, do i want to lose that???

If you want a drag car kill the PS - if you want to go in the twistys keep the PS

you're not gonna lose much weight anyways

The AC Compressor probably weighs as much as the PS system
 

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Here's how to decide if you really want to kill your power steering: buy a shorter accessory belt and bypass the power steering pump (the correct belt length is on this site somewhere). Drive the car for a while and decide if it's something you can live with. Personally, I'll stick with power steering.
 

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I agree. I am down to 3225 lbs so far, and still not ready to go to a manual rack, YET. :) I need to drop another 200 lbs, which will include skinnies on the front, then I will be ready to put one on mine. Daily Driver MN12 = P/S :)
 
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