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1997 Tbird AED PI swap
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently bought another 97 tbird. The car has 79k on it but had a jmoded trans installed years ago. I took it down the road last night and it shifted through all the gears good(shifts little slower than expected with the jmod?) torque converter locked up in OD(at a pretty low rpm). On my way back I booted it, seemed to hang shift on 2-3 shift then neutralled out with a flashing od light. Took it home turned it off then took it for a normal drive again, had all gears and the converter locked up the same in OD as it did the first time?? Time for a rebuild or a converter?

fluid looks brand new with no smell to it at all.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Go get the code(s) read first. The PCM observed a problem and recorded that observation, so start there before taking guesses and potentially putting money where it may not need to go.

Given that, it's probably electrical related.
 

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1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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Everytime I've seen the blinking o/d light I've found the trans wiring harness to have bad insulation near the connectors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It had a shift solenoid b code, I cleared them, took it for a drive and around 3/4 throttle itll go neutral in the 2-3 shift, stop shut it off and half throttle shift like normal... maybe a little slower than expected but its a new to me car so idk. I checked the codes when I got home and no solenoid codes present but the od light is always flashing.
Side note, the car supposedly has a marauder converter (no reason to doubt that) in it and when standing on the brake with the ebrake to the floor it will only get 2k before the tires brake loose.
Wondering if I should try solenoids or drop the trans, replace the converter and solenoids or replace the trans and converter
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Trying to avoid using my "built transmission" on this car and avoiding potentially scrapping a good transmission. I got everything taken apart last night.
1- Would this "kink" be enough to cause my problem?
2- Also, I think I'm going to replace the shift solenoids even though that code didn't pop back up after I cleared it.
3- I have my old trans from an 06 f150, can I use the psi control solenoid, according to jerrys transmission 101 it should be the upgrade one.
4- The wiring inside the transmission appears fine... no bare wires
44731
 

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SuperNewbie
1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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Trying to avoid using my "built transmission" on this car and avoiding potentially scrapping a good transmission. I got everything taken apart last night.
1- Would this "kink" be enough to cause my problem?
2- Also, I think I'm going to replace the shift solenoids even though that code didn't pop back up after I cleared it.
3- I have my old trans from an 06 f150, can I use the psi control solenoid, according to jerrys transmission 101 it should be the upgrade one.
4- The wiring inside the transmission appears fine... no bare wires
View attachment 44731
Well if that bend is swished a bunch that could be an issue. But if it isn't too severe then I wouldnt worry. I'd be checking the wiring harness on the outside of the trans for bare insulation. as far as the internal harness goes look for fluid on the plug that goes thru the trans case. I've seen them get old and fluid will seep thru the pins.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I replaced the solenoids topped the fluid off and replaced the lines(due to a slight kink) last night. I took it for a drive and honed on it pretty good and it shifted fine and kept all gears.
This morning, just easily merging on the highway it went neutral on the 2-3 shift, pulled to the shoulder shut it down and went neutral on the 2-3 shift, did that one more time and on the 4 time shifted into 3 and 4th. I am really scratching my head now.
I just got another shift solenoid b code.
 

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every time I had probs on the 1-2 it was either the old accumulator, or a slipping one- way clutch.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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I still think this is an electrical connection issue somewhere in the harness.

To summarize:

For 1st gear, SS1 comes on (SS2 is off). Pins 27 and 71 at the PCM.
For the 1-2 shift, SS1 shuts off (SS1 and SS2 are both off).
For the 2-3 shift, SS2 comes on (SS1 is off and SS2 is on). Pins 11 and 71 at the PCM.
For the 3-4 shift, SS1 comes back on (both solenoids on). Pins 11, 27 and 71 at the PCM.

SS2 resistance should be 24.5 to 29.5 ohms between pins 11 and 71 at the PCM. Since your issues revolve around 3rd and 4th gear (collaborated by your SS2 PCM codes) focus on pin 11. Have a helper under the car jiggle the harness and connectors and watch the resistance. If it fluctuates at all, there's a short or a bogus connection that needs to be addressed. The location can be pinpointed by disconnecting sections of the harness and measuring individual sections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I still think this is an electrical connection issue somewhere in the harness.

To summarize:

For 1st gear, SS1 comes on (SS2 is off). Pins 27 and 71 at the PCM.
For the 1-2 shift, SS1 shuts off (SS1 and SS2 are both off).
For the 2-3 shift, SS2 comes on (SS1 is off and SS2 is on). Pins 11 and 71 at the PCM.
For the 3-4 shift, SS1 comes back on (both solenoids on). Pins 11, 27 and 71 at the PCM.

SS2 resistance should be 24.5 to 29.5 ohms between pins 11 and 71 at the PCM. Since your issues revolve around 3rd and 4th gear (collaborated by your SS2 PCM codes) focus on pin 11. Have a helper under the car jiggle the harness and connectors and watch the resistance. If it fluctuates at all, there's a short or a bogus connection that needs to be addressed. The location can be pinpointed by disconnecting sections of the harness and measuring individual sections.
Thanks for the infomation! I'll track down a pin out for the pcm connector. I think it is electrical too, yesterday on the way home from work I found out that with OD button off, it shifts 1-2-3 every time, then push the button and it gets 4th. However if you leave OD on it neutrals on the 2-3 shift.
I wish I was better at electrical stuff, I guess I have to learn quick now, if I want to drive it before snow flies :oops:

Is this the pin out I need to reference?
44966
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I still think this is an electrical connection issue somewhere in the harness.

To summarize:

For 1st gear, SS1 comes on (SS2 is off). Pins 27 and 71 at the PCM.
For the 1-2 shift, SS1 shuts off (SS1 and SS2 are both off).
For the 2-3 shift, SS2 comes on (SS1 is off and SS2 is on). Pins 11 and 71 at the PCM.
For the 3-4 shift, SS1 comes back on (both solenoids on). Pins 11, 27 and 71 at the PCM.

SS2 resistance should be 24.5 to 29.5 ohms between pins 11 and 71 at the PCM. Since your issues revolve around 3rd and 4th gear (collaborated by your SS2 PCM codes) focus on pin 11. Have a helper under the car jiggle the harness and connectors and watch the resistance. If it fluctuates at all, there's a short or a bogus connection that needs to be addressed. The location can be pinpointed by disconnecting sections of the harness and measuring individual sections.
I don't have a terminal in position 71 any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Still hoping to get a pin out for the pcm connector.

Updat on the car though, drove it tonight for 20 minutes and it was flawless, stopped to get gas, left the gas station, didn't shift into 3rd stayed in second, idled down reved up like neutral but when the revs caught up it was still in second... just wouldn't shift. Got home shut it off drove again and it was perfect the od light even went off
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Range switch?? This morning it 3rd neutralled 5 times on the highway, shutting it off and re-starting after each time.... so that has nothing to do with it. When I finally decided to turn around, I put it in gear and shifted fine the whole way home to get the focus, didn't even touch the OD button.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I found this, not sure if it helps or not?

Man that is exactly what I spent hours looking for thank you! But now I have a bigger concern as my car is 100 percent a 1997 but I have no pin in hole 71 like the 97 pin out states.
 
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You might have to add in the proper pin?

Circuit 361 is vehicle power, red wire. If you can get your hands on a proper wiring manual, you will see which circuits use the 36q circuit. It might be as simple as moving the circuit 361 pin from wherever it is now, to pin 71.
I several Ford wiring diagrams here, they are not Tbird/Cougar and they are earlier 90s, but circuit 361 with a red wire is vehicle power that goes to the transmission bulkhead connector.
 

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This seems like the mlps. it's what you called a range switch.
This could also be an eec problem.
If you get water into the connector, it can also do this.
It can be other stuff, the seals on the direct clutch...

When you turn it off/on, it reloads the base reading on the sensor.
I forgot to mention, if the eec has issues it always goes to2nd.
 

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Not being able to edit my posts makes it more difficult.
i misspelled some stuff
circuit 361 is from eec to trans
 

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Not being able to edit my posts makes it more difficult.
i misspelled some stuff
circuit 361 is from eec to trans
Why can't you edit your posts?

Hit the three stacked dots at the far right top of the post; it'll have EDIT as a choice.

RwP
 
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