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shaken, not stirred
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Discussion Starter #1
Call me ignorant......but up untill recently I was unaware that a "strut rod" even existed. If you said Strut, i assumed you meant the "shock" in the front. Well after searching on the forum and finding out that my problem of my car pulling drastically to the left when I brake most likely is the Strut Rod Bushing...I have a few questions I hope can be answered.....

1. Where is this located? Specifically....if you had a pic of one that would be most helpful


2. Is this a time consuming-pain in the arse type job?


3. I never had this problem untill last year when I had the lower ball joints and wheel bearings replaced.....it has been happening ever since


4. Is this a Ford specific part? I asked a buddy who works on GM products and he assumed it was the "shock-strut" and was unaware of any other strut-rod.


Thanks in advance as always......

-C.Hill
 

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You want OEM ford if you can find them. I talked to Trousley ford two weeks ago and they told me the strut rod bushings are obsolete. Trousley told me there some out there but not many. They are running $100 a set and you need two sets.
 

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There is a frame side and a lower control arm side. The lower control arm side bushings are still available as are the frame side, and there is a kit for the frame side but it has been discontinued and dealer stock is all that remains.

I am almost done doing the lower control arm side bushings on the T-bird now. Right side took me days because I didn't prep properly (didn't clean the threads on the strut rod and sheared off half the threads taking off the nut) but the left side I had done in a day. Not difficult with the right tools, but it can become a nightmare quickly. I've had the front end in pieces for nearly a week now.

ONLY Ford OEM bushings, the thermoplastic stuff deteriorates after a year or so or upon contact with oils and greases.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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I am using the chea rear bushings and they are doing ok only because I used NEW ford kits on them. You have little or no hope getting your old ferrules apart short of melting out the rubber bushings. Spend the money in the kit if you can't torch them out and save the ferrules. I did it a few years ago and I distroyed the ferrules and the proper huge wenches with cheater pipes on both sides of the K bushing or giant impact sockets LIke teminator said just have the right tools and the job is easy but that can be said for lots of things. I used a huge adjustable wrench to get job done with a 24mm IIRC. It took me a day to get the things off on my first try. I really took sh1t apart though because it was a total rebuild.
 

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shaken, not stirred
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Discussion Starter #5
Still not having some of my questions answered.....

Where is this? Anyone have a pic of where it is? I just don't konw what to look for.

If I call Ford, what kind of part number am I looking for? I'm afraid they might not konw what I am talking about like everyone else I have asked

C.Hill
 

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PostSlut
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you see the "arm" hanging to the right in the pic? thats it...its still mounted to my k-member....you can see those nuts and washers too(they are
silver in color)

 

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Googled :
"strut rod bushings site:TCCOA.Com" then "images" from the menu.

Frame side assembled:





There's this thread:
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=133783


This one is bad:


Be sure to keep all washers/metal pieces!
You will need them later. I went moog parts once, thankfully I kept the old stuff. They lasted about a summer...



Found this; these guys look familiar...

 

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shaken, not stirred
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Discussion Starter #11
I was trying to search but didn't see anything, just suggestions for what TYPE of bushing to buy... but what size of socket do I need to remove the large nut in the front and rear.

C.Hill
 

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I was trying to search but didn't see anything, just suggestions for what TYPE of bushing to buy... but what size of socket do I need to remove the large nut in the front and rear.

C.Hill
30 mm fits my car.

You'll also need a 30mm open end, or an adjustable wrench that can do 30mm, to adjust the INNER one, unless you're also pulling the LCA.

And my suggestion is to unbolt the shock/spring assembly from the LCA in any case - I could NOT get it spread enough without (will be swapping the front spring/shock assembly when I redo the front bushings - the ACDelco don't last but a month or so for me :redmad: :redmad:

Oh, and another adjustable (or the proper size open end!) to hold the strut rod.

Don't forget to torque to the proper setting on both ends.

RwP
 

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And my suggestion is to unbolt the shock/spring assembly from the LCA in any case - I could NOT get it spread enough without (will be swapping the front spring/shock assembly when I redo the front bushings - the ACDelco don't last but a month or so for me :redmad: :redmad:
I have to do this VERY soon, but what I was thinking(and I thought that I read somehwere here) is to unbolt the LCA from the knuckle, the strut rod obviously and at the k member, then remove the 3 upper strut mount bolts and the whole LCA should swing out of the way with the shock attached to it, thus not having to wrestle with the rusted in place lower shock bolt. Unless you are replacing the shocks at the same time.
 

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I have to do this VERY soon, but what I was thinking(and I thought that I read somehwere here) is to unbolt the LCA from the knuckle, the strut rod obviously and at the k member, then remove the 3 upper strut mount bolts and the whole LCA should swing out of the way with the shock attached to it, thus not having to wrestle with the rusted in place lower shock bolt. Unless you are replacing the shocks at the same time.
Err - I live in Louisiana.

WHAT rust on the lower shock bolt? :D

But for you, yah, might be better to do that.

And I'll be swapping in some lower-mileage ARC shocks at the same time (going from 130+Kmiles to 66-KMiles on the shocks ... )

RwP
 
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