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Firstly, I'd like to say replacing the strut rod bushings following the factory manual does not work if you cannot pry the spindle/strut assembly far back enough.

I had to drop the LCA at the frame and lower strut to get the strut rod out. Then comes the second kick in the nuts, the rear bushings have a long ferrule that needs to be cut to get out, another 30mins of dremel work. The bushings on the frame side has a lip in front that needs to be separated, that took some tough smashing with a flat tip screw driver and mallet.

Put in the Moog replacement bushings and my front end shakes are gone!

Here are some pics of the f-ed up LCA side bushing.

 

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Heavy Metal said:
Hopefully the Moogs will last you but if you do a search here you will see that they have a problem with splitting over time. Thus the reason I went back with Ford OEM.
i had three cracked driver side bushings in less than 2 years and on my second moog passenger side, since it cracked again three weeks ago. yeah, they suck. Ill be going back to OEMs also.
 

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Which ones are cracking on you guys the Frame or the control arm mounted ones?

I bellieve they need a good dose of grease put on em (did on mine) because they need to twist and because they are made of a harder compound which is what causes the cracking
 

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I think my moog units came with a larger washer than is pictured there. Do you remember what you torqued those to? I know I've read about quite a few people having that problem. I didn't read about the issue untill I had already replaced all of mine with moog bushings. They have been on for a year without problems now but I'm still concerned. How long did they actually hold up before they failed on you?
 

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How long did they actually hold up before they failed on you?
A couple months but my suspension is extremely tight and I'm sure the 4 pot cal's put a hurting on em. Trust me dude they will fail and it can be a dangerous affair if it's at the wrong place/time.



-Scott
 

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did moog give you a refund or anything like that?
 

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I just installed the same bushings and mine did have a larger washer than what was pictured. I'm also sorry to say that even with LCA replacement, my vibration is still present even with repeated tire (New Khumo ECSTA 711s) balancing on a Hunter DSP9700. Up to about 77 or so it is good, but then from 80 and up, the vibration in the steering wheel is very annoying.

I do have a steering rack that is leaking through the seals, but I don't believe that would cause the vibration...

Sure hope I don't have problems with the strut bushings.
 

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The Torque of the bolt shouldnt matter because it stops on the sleeve anyway,, I personally think the sleeve should be designed a tad bit longer as the harder Moog/Aftermarket bushings dont like to compress like the rubber units.

I was thinking what about a Steering shaft Attachment in its place,, its designed to spin and swivel.. just not sure if it would be worth all the trouble and if it would be strong enough.
 

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Why not just replace it with a poly one instead of going with OEM or another rubber one? It won't effect ride quality and will last a lot longer.
 

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Grims95SC said:
Why not just replace it with a poly one instead of going with OEM or another rubber one? It won't effect ride quality and will last a lot longer.
no one makes rubber ones but OEM. Moog's are thermoplastic. The ones mn12perf includes in their kit is OE rubber. Poly isnt readily available.
 

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95BLKLSC said:
did moog give you a refund or anything like that?
the store i got mine from offered a free replacement. Moog hasnt given me ****.
 

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* Tie Rod Boots
* Front & Rear Strut Rod bushings (new ferrules & 7/8" washers included)
* Front Sway Bar bushings 1 1/16"
* Rack & Pinion bushings (5/8" washers included)
* Lower Control Arm bushings
* Upper Control Arm bushings
* Shock Bump Stop bushings
* Installation instructions
Ya can get them from SCP as part of a package but I'm sure you could also talk to them and just get certain parts of it.
 

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Grims95SC said:
Ya can get them from SCP as part of a package but I'm sure you could also talk to them and just get certain parts of it.

i just want to know who makes them for SCP. ill talk to the manufacturer before the middleman.
 

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just out of curiosity, radius arm bushing = strut rod bushing???
 

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95BLKLSC said:
did moog give you a refund or anything like that?
Didn't even try. Both Scott and I just went ahead and got them from Richie at SCP. We both have the big AADCO bars and very stiff suspension set up. Scott's got the 4 piston brakes and I've got 2 piston Cobra brakes, so it shoud be a good test to see how they hold up. It's been about 6 or so months now for Cougie and they're still in one piece. It remains to be seen how they'll hold up on GB.

I don't know if they are Poly or not, they are supposed to be. I can tell you that the SCP bushings are way softer than the Moogs. I compared them. The Moogs are hard as a rock and that's why they split.. they don't give enough. I'm hoping that the SCP bushings will be a happy medium between the OEM rubber and the Moogs. Hard enough to last and give a good stiff ride, but soft enough to give, rather than split.

-mike
 

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mine lasted about 3 months but after i isntalled them i got rid of most of my suspension problems.
 

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96 GoldBird said:
Didn't even try. Both Scott and I just went ahead and got them from Richie at SCP. We both have the big AADCO bars and very stiff suspension set up. Scott's got the 4 piston brakes and I've got 2 piston Cobra brakes, so it shoud be a good test to see how they hold up. It's been about 6 or so months now for Cougie and they're still in one piece. It remains to be seen how they'll hold up on GB.

I don't know if they are Poly or not, they are supposed to be. I can tell you that the SCP bushings are way softer than the Moogs. I compared them. The Moogs are hard as a rock and that's why they split.. they don't give enough. I'm hoping that the SCP bushings will be a happy medium between the OEM rubber and the Moogs. Hard enough to last and give a good stiff ride, but soft enough to give, rather than split.

-mike

the blue moogs are thermoplastic......the cell structure is way too random and not polarized enough to be stable, which is why they split. They are also very suseptable to mineral based fluids like ATF/PS fluid.
 
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