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drag-aholic
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Discussion Starter #1
i found in my search that it uses a 21mm and a 30mm. is this for all years? My '89 back nut is this huge thing that is about 1.5" deep and looks huge. ever seen this
 

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Huh?

Could you point to a picture of said "Strut Rod Nuts"?
 

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drag-aholic
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
the large nut next to the lower balljoint.


no big deal. i will just try the 30mm. it is a hex shape but has a closed end you can't see the strut rod threads out the end of it. unless its some kind of cover and the nut is inside of it.

here is a bad pic its on the far left and fuzzy
 

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You need 24mm and 30 mm do do the nuts on the strut rod bushings.

24mm at the back, 30mm at the front.
 

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Everyone's I've ever seen were 24mm and 30mm.
 

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Overkill Fetish Freak
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The strut rod in this pic has the big 30mm nut with the blue Moog problem solver bushing installed. I like to use a wrench on that sucker, be careful not use a wrench on the curved part of the arm when wrenching it off/on or there will be...trouble.


On a sad note:
A major fire broke out at one of Moogs main warehouses and they lost 90% of their product line. This means MN12 controls arms and stuff are going to be hard to find when the retail chains sellout so buyer beware.

:(
 

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Dr. FrankenCougie said:


The strut rod in this pic has the big 30mm nut with the blue Moog problem solver bushing installed. I like to use a wrench on that sucker, be careful not use a wrench on the curved part of the arm when wrenching it off/on or there will be...trouble.
Damb if that "K" doesn't look vaguely familiar, but it's slightly different color than when it left Florida..

This may sound really dumb and obvious, but be sure to put the large washer on the OUTSIDE of the bushing. I've seen up-close-and-personal what happens when someone (hamfist) put the washer on the wrong side... When I tested my new 13" brakes the first time, there was a loud thud, and a continuing loud thud every time I hit the brakes as the front wheel suspension went forward. The bushing blew through the nut, so the strut rods were worthless at keeping the suspension where it belonged... From then on, when someone else (other than Scott) works on my car, I try to get there just BEFORE it comes off the lift so I can look it over.


On a sad note:
A major fire broke out at one of Moogs main warehouses and they lost 90% of their product line. This means MN12 controls arms and stuff are going to be hard to find when the retail chains sellout so buyer beware.
:(
On a happy note:
Cougie and GB are "linked" up as of yesterday thanks to Rockauto.com, and we were well "armed" a few months ago... thanks to Scott's foresight. :thumbsup:



I talked to Rockauto to check on an order and the girl I spoke to said that their warehouses are "holding." They had lots of front end links on hand in several of their warehouses as of the day before yesterday. I daresay they probably have a lot of the other MOOG parts and LCA's stashed in their several warehouses, so we may be ok for a little while.

Alternatively, in S. Florida (and maybe elsewhere) we have CarQuest parts distributors. They package MOOG suspension and chassis parts in their own boxes with MOOG PN's and sell them out of their own wherehouses. So in a pinch if Rockauto runs dry, someone can PM me or one of the other S. Florida boys and we can try to get what you need locally and ship it out to you. It'll be a bit more expensive, but available.. at least for now..

But ultimately I am sure we will feel the crunch... :(

-mike
 

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Dr. FrankenCougie said:


"I like to use a wrench on that sucker, be careful not use a wrench on the curved part of the arm when wrenching it off/on or there will be...trouble."

What do you use on the "curved part of the arm"? I mean, how does it come out? Are there bushings on the end of the curved end?

Also, about how long would it take for a novice to do the bushings?

TIA/ Sideoiler
 

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It would take a novice 2 -3 hours to swap out the bushings.

With regard to the "curved part", the strut rod has an angled shape to it, as opposed to being perfectly straight. There are wrench flats at the middle of the strut rod. The Ford Shop manual warns against placing the wrench at the apex of the angle. Just place the wrench on the flats favoring the side that has the nut you are trying to remove. Otherwise, you could distort the strut rod.

Hopefully, this makes sense. When you go out to look at it, you should be able to figure it out.
 
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