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Discussion Starter #1
okay so i have been really thinking about buying an SVO blower to get my bird running good. i found a couple draw backs.... price: $2000 for blower and all parts, $100+ for injectors, $200 for a tune, plus all the little things that go wrong when your working on motors.
so ~$2300 for about ~300rwhp sounds pretty nice.
but i also have a 140k mile npi 2v motor... it is my daily driver (-80% of the time im it driving normal)

so what do you guys think of this? i kinda feel like its a dead end with a 2v high mileage motor. but i feel this is the way to go because i like my highER mpgs and ride comfort... i also wont be without my car for a week if i were to install heads, or rebuild the bottom end.. which would be around the same price..

should i just run the motor til it throws a rod then get an PI motor and put the blower back on?

i could throw some stage II cams in it for around $500-$600
i could port heads but that would be upwards of $1000

i'm just kinda stuck at the moment and not sure what to do, you guys cut the bullsh*t and tell it how it is. what would you guys do?

Patrick
 

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scrap the npi motor now, get a PI motor and put a blower on the PI motor. A blower on a 140k motor is only a matter of time. is there a specific reason you want a svo blower? just curious. You'll pay more than $200 for a tune, try close to $500 because you'll need a dynotune. And another big factor is you really don't want to modify your daily driver to this extent. I wouldn't waste time putting stage 2 cams in a npi motor with stock heads. How much do you have to spend? for $2300, you could get a PI motor and a torque converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the PI motor with a blower sounds great but i dont have the money for a new motor and a blower. i bet my npi motor is putting down the same numbers as a PI motor with my cams, intake and tune. so for $2300 i would be back to where i am.

idk the SVO blowers seem to be a good upgrade and for a better price than the competition. i talked to Robert about his and he really knew alot about the SVO.

i have about 2k to spend but as time goes along it will increase.

i want my lead sled to kick some a$$ and this pi swap crap aint cuttin it. :)
 

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Do the SVO now and PI when it blows up.
-Rob
 

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Confirmed V6 Nut
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What are you running for gears in the rear end. You might find there's a cheap change that will thrill you.

I went from 3.27 to 3.55s and made a world of difference, but so did going to new high flow cats in a Magnaflow Y pipe to a 2.5" exhaust system. Have you thought about such things for your 4.6? Sometimes is isn't getting more in to the engine, but getting the exhaust out.
 

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Do the SVO now and PI when it blows up.
-Rob
i think putting a npi svo onto a pi engine takes some port matching and $$.

I really doubt you're making 265hp at the engine with those mods. If you want to stay NPI, thats fine, but i honestly think you're limiting yourself. Don't get me wrong, power can be made with a npi motor, but in the end, it all costs money. If you stick with a NPI engine, you're going to effectively max it out before you max out a PI. Unless you have unlimited money. I personally went 13.02 at 103mph on a vortech npi engine with a flowmaster exhaust, 3.73's and a 3500 stall. I really do think your limiting factor is your gearing and stall. You change those and you can pick up .5s in the quarter.
 

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Oh, I am talking about the blower that has PI ports already and putting it onto his NPI heads. I guess this would be the FRPP blower? It should be as easy to install sealing-wise as a PI intake onto NPI heads, correct?
-Rob
 

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Oh, I am talking about the blower that has PI ports already and putting it onto his NPI heads. I guess this would be the FRPP blower? It should be as easy to install sealing-wise as a PI intake onto NPI heads, correct?
-Rob
got me. haha i have no clue about svo blowers. But im pretty sure that the svo blowers are ONLY npi.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the quick replys.

no i guess im not making 260 to the crank. its gotta be close tho. they say the pi heads only add 10hp and i have a slightly better cam than the pi with the intake and tune.. oh well doesnt matter i run pretty good with a pi GT for being 400lbs+ more

i would love to do gears and stall but really im not really about the 1/4mi racing and i do alot of highway driving. ive seen guys go at it with the 410 gear and stock 327 and from a 35 roll and higher it really doesnt make that much of a difference; in my experience.
eventually i will go with a marauder TC but thats also not really going to help me but from a dead stop. i might try the 355 if i can get an excellent price on it.

exhaust would be good, nice sound and better mpgs but very expensive for such little hp gain
 

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the whole top end PI swap yields ~40hp with a tune. Don't let the gears and stall make you think it's only a quarter mile thing. A stall will help you in any type of driving. A car with a 3.27 or a 4.10 will be totally different from a 35mph roll. That's a big gear change. A marauder TC is a good choice, but probably for a few more bucks, you can get a superior unit. Do you have a traction lock rear end? That's also an option. But you seem to want more rolling acceleration over from a stop. I wouldnt really expect a mpg gain from an exhaust. Atleast it wouldn't be noticeable. You have tons of options and honestly, none of them are wrong.
 

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$2000 to blow...

PI top end
Converter
Gears
Tune
Few bolt ons

If you don't wanna blow money on ported heads and cams (for Stage 2's, you're gonna need valve springs as well, figure on $700 total), get rid of the NPI stuff as the PI is better stock for stock.
 

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everyone wants performance, but dont want to give up fuel economy.......unless you always baby it after you mod it (which is just downright blasphemous), you're gonna end up losing fuel economy because its more fun to drive it...so just mod it and stfu :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
just watching two friends go at with their PI mustangs. both were pretty much the same in mods one with a 410 gear, exhaust and one with a 327, exhaust, and tune. the 410 mustang pulled quite a bit a first but by the time they got to idk 80 or 90 he only had him by car length.

i would definitely do a TL when/if i did a 355 gear


everyone wants performance, but dont want to give up fuel economy.......unless you always baby it after you mod it (which is just downright blasphemous), you're gonna end up losing fuel economy because its more fun to drive it...so just mod it and stfu :)
hahaha straight to the cut; drop the bullsh*t :D

i guess i need to drive a car with the 373 gear to really see the difference. everyone that has it say they love it.


i found an 07 explorer 3v 4.6 motor for $1,000 that would be pretty bada$$ to drop in my bird. then dropping a Scharger on it. dont see it happening tho :rolleyes: :tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i bet the comments for this thread will jump after this one.. :rolleyes:

i was talking to a guy today about the 2v motors. and basically he said they are complete piles of crap. he said unless they are FI they will never get passed 300RWHP without lots and lots of money dumped into them. i figured that sounded about right as ive never seen a na 2v motor passed 260RWHP with just H/C/I so i said yeah whats your point? so he brings up the LS1 for example which comes from factory with 320BHP he says you can throw a single cam in it which is half the price of your two cams and get twice the horsepower, said the single cam would jump the motor from 320 to 360-370 easy. i was like thats bullcrap ive never heard of a cam that will give 50hp. so he explains the intake and exhaust specs on the heads explaining something about how the 2v heads are angled wrong.

LS specs: 242CFM @ intake 210 @ exhaust
2v 4.6 specs: 165/150CFM and ported they wont go much more than 220/190

so i didnt really know what to say to that. so i asked him about ford motors and he says the 4v is really good motor because it can flow much better than the 2v but all the power is up high so again you need FI and high gears. he said the 3v motor is great because its a balance of the two.

so idk thats what i learned today, just wondered what you guys thought about that. i guess its time for an LS1 in the bird.. LOL
 

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i dont care about the "money" issue....money is a necessity of modding...you can't not include it, so to argue against spending it is useless....way back when you were still in diapers, KDanner put down 303 rwhp with basically H/C/I...through an auto...and IRS differential...and a heavy cobra crank.....in a 5-sp solid axle stang with a lighter crank, that would likely have been around 330 rwhp...tell your friend to stfu :)

you need to visit modularfords 2V forum so you can see what some 2Vs are putting down....Logan motorsports just built a N/A 2V for a mustang customer that put down 420 rwhp...soak that one in
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i mean money is a huge factor for me but i get what your saying. i mean idk if i could ever trust a chevy my dad had one and it was nothing but problems. but these LSX motors are something else. Ford makes some great FI motors but untill the new 5.0 there was nothing to really brag about (stock)

lol hes not my friend just a guy i started talking to over another car forum. feel free to rag what he said.

what was KDanner running? is there a thread about it?
 

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Get a 4.10 T-lok and a good converter. Don't worry about the PI heads, you'll go through the work to install them and be disappointed by the small, if even noticeable, gain. Do get better exhaust than just a "muffler delete," at least 2 1/4" true dual. Ditch the stock cats and go with some that flow. Don't worry about the 140k on the motor; I have a strong one with 180k and I'm still modding it. The way I see it, mod the motor and if it don't last, move the mods to the next motor. But I wouldn't get that SVO blower yet. You don't want to put all your work into the motor and forget about the rest (exhaust, rear end, etc.).

And the LS1 is 5.7L. It has the displacement advantage. And if you can gain 50HP from an aftermarket cam with an LS1, then that just makes me think the stock cam must have really sucked.
 

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I'd go for the svo if you plan to stay 2v and a vortec if you plan on going 4v. Svo's aren't getting any newer or easier to find so I'd jump on the on RobertP has for sale. Run it on the npi, maybe do a pi cam swap as well since it's cheap and run that till it pops. Later down the line upgrade to a pi engine and while your in there with the motor out change the tc. That's just my $0.02
 

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Young Grasshopper would be most wise to learn and heed the age old proverb of:

Affordability, Reliability, and Power. - - - You can pick two. :thumbsup:
 

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Don't worry about the PI heads, you'll go through the work to install them and be disappointed by the small, if even noticeable, gain.
Disagree...a PI top end swap on an NPI bottom end will definitely outrun a stock NPI car. If you say you have 180k on your engine, I'm assuming you don't have the PI's.
 
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