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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Took it in for an alignment a while back , and the tech said it is impossible to adjust the rear camber bolt. It was just a bit out of the normal zone. He used heat and a 4 foot breaker bar, but yet it wont move. He also tried a 3/4" monster impact. Spend a good hour on it. Anyone else have this issue?
 

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Took it in for an alignment a while back , and the tech said it is impossible to adjust the rear camber bolt. It was just a bit out of the normal zone. He used heat and a 4 foot breaker bar, but yet it wont move. He also tried a 3/4" monster impact. Spend a good hour on it. Anyone else have this issue?
The upper bolt adjusts caster. This is the one frozen? The lower arm adjusting bolt was frozen on my car. With a hammer and a long box wrench, I broke the nut end off punched the rest of the bolt out the other way. The nut was rusted solid to the bolt.

The front lower camber bolt was also frozen on my car. On this I had to get in between the frame and the control arm with a sawzall and cut it out.

Mitch
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The upper bolt adjusts caster. This is the one frozen? The lower arm adjusting bolt was frozen on my car. With a hammer and a long box wrench, I broke the nut end off punched the rest of the bolt out the other way. The nut was rusted solid to the bolt.

The front lower camber bolt was also frozen on my car. On this I had to get in between the frame and the control arm with a sawzall and cut it out.

Mitch
It may have been the upper one, not sure now... I mentioned cutting but he said the bolts may not be available so he didn't want to go further. He said if it was his car he would leave it alone.


They only charged me for a 2 wheel alignment lol.
 

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It may have been the upper one, not sure now... I mentioned cutting but he said the bolts may not be available so he didn't want to go further. He said if it was his car he would leave it alone.


They only charged me for a 2 wheel alignment lol.
I know the lower bolt and eccentric for front & rear is still available from Ford. I do not know about the rear upper. The nuts are separate. They are available for the front, but not the rear lower. I bought several 16mm 12.9 metric nuts for this. Before doing any suspension work, one should have at least one of each of these. If the car drives OK and does not wear the tires, then I guess you should leave well enough alone.

Mitch
 

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I'm not trying to be a jerk, but the upper adjustment bolt in the rear of our cars is for camber, not caster. I also find it hard to believe the alignment guy got an impact in there to try to break it loose without a really long extenstion and a swivel. The long extension coupled with the absurd angle the swivel would have to take would have rendered that big impact practically uselss. I've never had any problems with the camber adjust on our cars. I have had to heat up the lower nut on the toe adjust though. I guess if you really want it to move you're going to have to take it all apart to gain better access and really work at getting it moving again. I'm with Mitch though, if it doesn't wear your rear tires, just let it be.
 

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Toe bolt

Hello

It was prob. lower Toe bolt.

I have one of these, I tried to heat it out. Had to cut it.
Ended up melting the bushing out. BIG Smoke!!

I also had an upper arm eccentric go bad. The bolt is not special other than grade 8.

Paul
 

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The bolt for the rear caster adjustment IS certainly a special bolt. It would not work to turn the eccentric of the bushing if it were not nor would it "hold" the adjustment since the bushing would be free to spin when the arm is loaded/unloaded. The shank of the bolt is not completely round...there are "flats" or an oblong section to it that interfaces with the bushing. The bolts ARE obsolete from Ford now.
 

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Why are multiple people calling this a 'rear caster adjust' bolt? It most certainly is not. It runs parallel with the lower and is not a triangular control arm with two cams, how could it adjust caster?
 

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You are correct....my mistake...talking camber not caster. The bushing is an eccentric bushing. When the bolt is loosened and the head spun the entire inner part of the bushing spins to make the camber adjustment. You are basically changing the actual pivot point of the upper inner pivot of the upper rear control arm.

For the toe addjustment it is a conventional cam set-up that moves the pivot point by interfacing with the subframe half moon shaped "tabs" front and rear. Same way camber adjustment is made for the front suspension.
 
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