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Discussion Starter #1
There is an odd knock from the drivers side front when the suspension compresses. It's very random, but will happen every time I go over a speed bump. I was under there with a pry bar and everything is tight, both with wheels on the ground and supported by the frame with on weight on the wheels. It's kind of driving me crazy, any thoughts on what to check out? The smurf is lowered 1.5" with eibachs on Tokico shocks. UCA & LCA are newer MOOG, strut rod bushings are new, factory rubber to sub frame.
 

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Probably the sway bar end link.
 

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^^^ My first thought as well.
 

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End link or bushing.

RwP
 

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Sway bar end link. X5!

This applies to rattles from the rear also.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got under her this weekend and those links feel tight. I used a pry bar and rubber mallet to try and get some movement I'd expect to see from a worn out ball joint and nothing. I expect you're going to say replace them anyway. I used MOOG last time, but I don't like how the boots float on the ball joint. Rockauto has Moog & Proforged in the premium section and AC Delco, Motorcraft and Mevotech in the daily driver. All are in similar price range. Moog & Mevotech are shaped similar while the other have a straight bar. Looks like Moog, Delco & Mevotech are greasable, with Delco & Mevotech having a ring on the boot to hold it in place. Now the question, what do ya'll recommend?
 

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There's so much force on those while the car is jacked up, you can't move them.

If you take the two endlinks loose at one end, you will find that one end is frozen, and the other end rattles easily.

Especially if they do not have grease fittings. :)

These are the best ones I've found, by ACDelco, which is the ones Raybestos Professional used to make. ACD bought Raybestos 10 years ago or so.

 

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I will add to not over tighten the nuts. I stripped one once, and replacing it next time required a die grinder.

Al
 

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I will add to not over tighten the nuts. I stripped one once, and replacing it next time required a die grinder.

Al
Agreed; I've also had issues with the bolt that goes thru the spindle rusting in place; if you mushroom it with a hammer, you'll be using a die grinder and a punch to get it out.

:)

The links I posted above have 'deformed' features; you can see the three indents in the top of the bolt.
They will not loosen on their own. :)

They Can be a ***** to get to tighten; seems like the ones I bought had a hex in the end to aid in tightening/removal, but I'm not sure, it's been years since I replaced those.
An impact works, either way. :)

The greaseable ones last much longer than the regular ones.
 

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It sounds like the end links are the culprit but the first time I bought front shocks, I did not want to pay for new mounts at the top of the shock. I got a "schrunch" going over every speed bump with the new shocks.
 

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No. That's a factory defect. Or, a NOS defect. Really not much you can do about that. The stuff's been sitting on the shelf so long it's starting to dry rot. Send it back to rock auto, may be 3rd time's the charm. :zdunno:
 

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Those looks like the Raybestos/ACDelco ones.

I'd look and see if it's molded in; those seal really tight, and when you grease them it looks like it's going to pop.

They may have added that as a feature. :zdunno:

IF it's a feature, they'll all have them, and they'll look the same; all the same size.

If it's only that one, I'd definitely return them.

Unlike the stock/cheaper ones, those seals are retained with metal, and seal very well; people may have complained.

It took about a week for the trapped air to leak out of the last set I put on.

Those Do like to be greased regularly, I hit them every oil change, but they seem to last forever.

The set on Lazarus is about 10 years old; I replaced them after the curb incident. None of the others I've bought have lasted more than maybe 5 years.
The moog ones were dead in two years. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I thought factory defect at first also especially since there was not a hole in the other one I got. Pics attached as comparison. Maybe that is a relief, I know the MOOGs would bulge up then grease would be all over the spindle, etc. With these boots being sealed so well that's gap for the excess grease to run out. So now I'm thinking do I cut a little relief in the other boots or sent those back? It'd be nice if there was some documentation that stated they changed the design at some point.
 

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That looks molded in to me; IDK, but look there's a hole at the inner top too.

I think it's a newer design and OK; but I'd make sure to keep them filled with grease, or water will get in.

If you send one back, I'll bet you get the newer design returned to you.

I'd load them up with grease and work them around; the trapped air will come out in a few days, as it moves around.

A sewing needle pushed gently in between the boot and the shaft will let the air out; I've done that with other seals. :)

One more thing: Make sure when you screw in the Zerk fittings, they end up where you can get to them; they're not a lot of room to change the angle later, lol.
I've screwed that up with one set of these, and one set of LCAs.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I installed them yesterday. There's still a knock when going over a speed bump. Any thoughts on what else to look at?
 

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That's the most common problem; when did you replace uca/lca parts last?

The Shock, the shock mount, ball joints, or even wheel bearings can make noise.

Are you sure it's the right front? It can be hard to tell inside the car.

An easy way these days is to put your phone on record, lay it on the ground, and drive over it, at a speed bump.

You can hear where the noise is, and may be able to see something move.

A magnet tucked into the case so it sticks under the car can be used, just don't do that if your phone has a "No Touch" charger, it will fry it.

Also, don't run over your phone, lol.

Something else, depending on how worn the EGR system is, the EGR solenoid may be laying in the front fenderwell, making noise. :)
If the EGR code is on, I'd check that.
 
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