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With the 'Bird now in the garage and 10 years old, the logical first step seems to be to be check for rust and and then replace the suspension bushings. From what I've read, you'd basically check the ball joints, replace them if necessary, then check the tie rods, tension rod, control arm, and sway bar bushings on the front, then do the rear lca bushings, spring isolators, subframe bushings, irs bushings, and sway bar bushings.

Here are my questions and a few things I just want to make sure I have right

1. The only reason why I'd need to replace something like a control arm would be if the hole has been worn out or the bushing doesn't fit as it should.
2. You can get poly bushings from MN12Performance, to get poly rear lca bushings you have to get some made for an irs cobra, and the subframe bushings would come from Ford. I'm not aware of anyone that makes those in poly.
3. Poly bushings seem to be the nautral choice, but are there any problems with them binding?
4. How much would all the proper bushings cost?
5. Is there anything in particular that has to be professionally done. My father is a very good wrench, he'll be helping me with it.
5. Am I missing anything, if so, what?
 

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I'm doing a rebuild myself. Look for some pix in about a month. Anyway, a few words on the bushings. I can say with a good deal of accuraccy that with your car being ten years old that your struts/shocks are shot, the front end links are too. Hmmm, what else, the irs bushings must be replaced, and be on the lookout for problems with the bushing (to body) on the upper control arms in the rear. Mine looked fine but had a crack that was only visible when you removed the uca.
What else......, the upper balljoints should also be replaced. And check the wheel bearings (especially the rear).
I recently bought subframe bushings from ford and as I recall (top and bottom) are about $75. That times four. Then I've bought lots of poly from mn12performance.
Some other optional stuff you might consider are replacing the coil springs, and half-shafts, and tie rods. I usually replace the fasteners (nuts). Anytime you run a locknut backwards it'll lose some of its bite. This isn't everything but hits most of the wear that I've run into personally. Others may have different experiences.
One last thing. Your motor mounts (trans mount too) should be replaced or at least checked.
Perch
 
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