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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to rebuild my suspension with koni struts, vogtland springs, addco 1 3/8 sway bar f&r, and also all poly bushings. Is it worth replacing things like the control arms and tie rods while I'm at?
 

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IMHO, Yes. But then I'm one of the "while I'm there" type of people. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats what I was leaning toward... with my luck I would take the first corner and the one part I didn't replace would fail horribly
 

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Depends on the mileage / condition of your existing parts. On these older cars I always find something to replace after I take the wheels off .. probably wont need Tie rod ends, but UCA's and Endlink usually always have blown boots and I tend to see a lot of wear on the LCA's inner bushings. Check your upper mounts for the front springs also, I see the rubber sometimes seperating where the shock threads go through into the engine bay but you cant see it unless you take the washer off and you might not see the cracks if it is not under suspension load.
 

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Big Bar -- poly

Hello

Is this a Daily driver?

Those are some heavy duty sway bars.
I have a 1 3/8" front bar in my Stock Car.
Poly bushings will give a harsh ride.

New rubber bushings are a nice upgrade to old ones.

Paul
 

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Hello

Is this a Daily driver?

Those are some heavy duty sway bars.
I have a 1 3/8" front bar in my Stock Car.
Poly bushings will give a harsh ride.

New rubber bushings are a nice upgrade to old ones.

Paul
I totally agree with Paul. Unless you've ridden in a car that stiff, you have no idea how flimsy that car is gonna sound. You'll hear squeeks and rattles (as well as pebbles in the road...lol) like you've never heard from EVERYWHERE.

94 Daily Driven 4.6L & SCTbird1994 are right too. As far your original question, I always have regretted it in the past when I didn't do everything while I was there. Cause it's a PITA to do it all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes it is a daily driver but since everything I need is usually on base 80% of the driving I do is recreational. The car should have somewhere around 100k on it not too sure since the speedo broke multiple times and was left unfixed for a few years, so I'm definitly just going to replace all of it. right before I ordered the poly bushing from scp I read a post saying OEM is the way to go.. so i need to spend some time with the search button... other than the harsh rides has anyone had any bad experiences with poly bushing?
 

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Big bar & cracks

Hello

Search posts about cracking fire walls. Some think the bigger bars are the cause.
So if you add the bigger bars also add tower braces.

You might try some early SC bars first.

Paul
 

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I think I read in some thread in this forum that it was better to have original rubber in front and poly in the rear. Tru or not, hope someone remember better than me.
I have just put some poly in the rear of my car, together with Koni and Vogtland but not had the chance of testing it. I have welded the rear axle fram and add some extra strengthning bars etc. The frame is poor welded in some areas. Good enough for a car that not has been into any modification. Has to wait until April or May before the car is on the road again.

Berth
 

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Yes it is a daily driver but since everything I need is usually on base 80% of the driving I do is recreational. The car should have somewhere around 100k on it not too sure since the speedo broke multiple times and was left unfixed for a few years, so I'm definitly just going to replace all of it. right before I ordered the poly bushing from scp I read a post saying OEM is the way to go.. so i need to spend some time with the search button... other than the harsh rides has anyone had any bad experiences with poly bushing?
It's all personal preference man I have the KONI struts in my car and vogtland 1.6" drop springs and I replaced my UCAs/LCAs/Sway Bar End links/ strut rod bushings while I was in there. I have all struts on super stiff and I am a daily driver. The car drives very close in ride to my mom's 2008 Merc-Benz E350 if you can believe that. Let me tell you stiff is stiff, when I take a corner and there is a bump the whole car feels it and you do too, the nice thing about the KONI's is the infinite adjust ability, so I just loosen them up when I want a nice soft ride and it takes all of 5 minutes. Oh have to add in, I LOVE the KONI/Vogtland combination....Trunk Monkey had the opportunity to take a spin with me after I had done the rear and he could feel the difference too. I have the poly spring cups in the back and poly bushings up front and I have no squeaks or problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
update
i ordered most of the parts (still "searching" some others) pretty much waiting on the vogtland springs i ordered. My question right now is: the front 1 3/8" poly anti-sway bar bushing from ADDCO appears to be a 1 1/16" bushing that has been drilled out to a 1 3/8" and isn't centered at all. Will this cause problems after installation?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
both of the bushings are 1 1/16" drilled out to 1 3/8" neither are perfectly center but one is worse than the other
 

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if anyone knows where i could get a ''rag joint'' brand new for 95 thunderbird lx 4.6 or in excellent condition email mike at [email protected] THANKS!!
email sent.

But THIS is a better option, if you want to do it the best way possible.

 

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both of the bushings are 1 1/16" drilled out to 1 3/8" neither are perfectly center but one is worse than the other
The bushings that ADDCO supplies are junk.

THIS was my solution.
 

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The bushings that ADDCO supplies are junk.

THIS was my solution.
DLF,

Are you interested in selling those cut stainless pieces you made up? I have a sway bar off an 89 SC that I want to install this spring so this might be a good option foe me.

Joe

 

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DLF,

Are you interested in selling those cut stainless pieces you made up? I have a sway bar off an 89 SC that I want to install this spring so this might be a good option foe me.

Joe

PM Sent.
 
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