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The Parts Guy
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Rod,

You've been so much help on this entire deal, I can't thank you enough. Today I finished pulling the 94 LX interior, and well with the help of another tech artical from mn12mike I was able to pull my 89-93 interior without any hang ups either. So currently I have to striped mn12s, 1 of which waiting its new dash. Had fun smashing out the 94s windsheild to remove the needed firewall mounting. I guess this is enjoyable, yet hard part of the job.

Hope to add some pictures here soon. Have a full camera just to much drive to have this finished within a few days.

I figure the install will be the easy part...the wiring...Shoot me now!

Thanks again.

-Tim
 

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The Parts Guy
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No problem, Tim. That's what the board is here for.

Good luck.

-Rod
 

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I already have a 96 car and still appreciate seeing this. Very nice write up! This is more of the kind of thing that we need....instead of petty stuff...like "Hey guys what gear should I run?" or "Will these mufflers be loud enough?".....Good work.

Russell
 

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Dash Swap –Retaining 89-93 wiring

A couple of observations from my swap.

The swap can be accomplished without any welding or bracket addition, You just have to remove the early firewall “nubs”. Drill the spot welds and twist the braket free from the top weld with a pir of Vice Grips. With those removed you can use machine screws to secure the top of the dash to the firewall piece. The Right hand kick panel bolt will go right in. The drivers side needs a new hole drilled for the lower hole, or, the upper hole can be used. The trick: Through the headlight switch hole, push on the side of the dash out from the inside and you can use a wobble and a long extension to run the top bolt in. You don’t need the other bracket inside the dash in that area. The central two studs will line up in the center bottom of the dash. The extra ear on the driveshaft tunnel mount is not necessary.

The wiring swap is not that bad. Where rod installed a 94+ harness I reinstalled my old harness into the new dash. You will have to cut and lengthen the wires for the A/C & Photocell (dash top) sensors, cig lighter, defrost switch, misc light bulbs and decide what you want to do about the headlamp switch & auto-on. I plan on rewiring mine for the nice dial type. Pull the plastic “tray/tunnel” off the old harness and reroute everything into the new dash. Make a bracket for your fuse block as this is the hardest piece to position, everything else has a good spot in the new dash. The door wiring is a little trickier. The new switches have a lot more wires than the old ones. You will need the ends of the door harnesses off of a 94+ to mount the switches. I will post my wiring diagrams as soon as I revise them.

The steering column is the other fun part. You will need the ignition switch slider harness to re-pin the old harness into. You will have to splice in the additional ground and powers wire used in the 94+ harnesses. Other than the couple of addition g/p wires it’s a color for color re-pin. Now for the trouble spot: the Multi function switch. The 94+ is shorter, sharper angle, and has the intermittent wipers controlled by the EEC rather than the switch/motor interface. Rather than losing my intermittent wipers, I cut away the alum on the steering column that interferes with the 93- multi switch. With the column cut down, the switch is a bolt in. Now the down side to that; the longer handle sits only ½ inch away from the steering wheel meaning you hit it while turning and you no longer have flash-to-pass. My temp solution is to drive with the switch in “bights” mode during the day and flat hand the steering wheel at night. Takes a little getting used to but it works. You could swap the bright and regular light pins, but I am still working on that.

The seat belts become the next issues. If you want to retain the Auto belts, you will have to knoch out the bottom of the door panel a large amount where the lap belt box resides. The Door is ½ inch too close even with the plastic off. I am doing this as I want to retain the belts. Rod’s route is a much easier way. The a-pillar plastic leaves a little gap at the dash if you reuse the early ones.

The steering wheel is up to you. The SC/ Early can be bolted on, but you need to “clearance” (bend over) the wire connection that protrudes under the steering wheel coming out of the column “contact slider”. Also warp it in electrical tape or the Steering wheel will cut in to it and short-circuit your buttons. The horn wire gets cut first and will leave you on the side of the road wondering why your horn is stuck on. You will have to splice both ends of the cruise/column wire into the old dash harness and the steering wheel buttons. Or use the airbag wheel and you only have to splice the column to harness wires.

The ignition switch will swap in, just be sure to install the top cover before you push the cylinder in. Radio fits in stock place. Old climate control plastic face needs cut down a little to fit in the DIN hole but it works. You can also install it in the bottom slot with no wire/vac line modification. The issues of cluster clearance was not a problem for me, 94/92 could swap back and forth with the same bezel to cluster clearance. Just be aware that the 92/94 (complete cluster) is not interchangeable.

Get a center console for what you have. An auto with a hand brake needs a 94+ SC auto center. I have a 95 5-spd from my swap (can’t shift past N) and a 94 LX auto (not for handbrake), so I drive without a console top for now. 94 speaker bezels need new holes drilled to install them, no provision on the old doors. The crap foam inside the doors can be tossed if it can't be re-glued.

Do ALL maintenance / modifications at this convenience; like heater core, clutch bracket/hole, firewall wire grommets, extra wiring for gauges sensors, dynamat, ect. Don’t forget to reinstall the dash to heater box foam seal or you will be pulling you dash again… don’t ask.

Also on a side note; for a 5-spd swap the LX brake pedal resides directly behind the clutch pedal when installed, if you cut it down you would have to cut it off. I will torch, bend the arm and weld on a new smaller pedal for the brake to make it work. The pedal bracket is specific to the type of brake system you have. IE: Early SC pedal or bracket does not work on vacuum style brake cylinder.

And a question for Rod, what did you do about the area on the forward part of the door where the old little plastic triangle held the old door panel down? If you can think of anthing I missed please let me know and I will try my best to "reverse engineer" my install.

---Max
 

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The Parts Guy
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Mickey said:
And a question for Rod, what did you do about the area on the forward part of the door where the old little plastic triangle held the old door panel down?

---Max
Max,

I didn't do anything to that area, as the 94-97 door panel covers the small hole from that screw.

-Rod
 

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The Parts Guy
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Would it be possible to get this and the other tech article I wrote (manual seat belt install) moved to the tech articles section of this site? I don't have enough webspace to keep hosting these two tech articles.

Thanks,
Rod
 

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racecougar said:
Would it be possible to get this and the other tech article I wrote (manual seat belt install) moved to the tech articles section of this site? I don't have enough webspace to keep hosting these two tech articles.

Thanks,
Rod
Rod,

I wouldn't hold my breath on that, updating the tech articles doesn't seem to be happening very quickly.

I can host it on my site if you want. Let me know.

Joe
 

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Some other methods to all this.

It seems as though my swap follows pretty close to Mickey, but I will post my difference in the installation methods to help thoughs that are interested.

My project mn12 was a 1993 SC 5sp.

I too kept the 93 harness since the 94 wiring is just to much to tame other wise. At first I thought it would be a direct plug and play but it wasn't at all. I plugged the 94 dash into my 93 harness and all I had were headlights and wipers everything else was dead...so I do recommend this to others that do this. Unless you are a wiring genius.

Mickey is 100% dead on with the firewall issues. I cut the needed brackets from the 94 then i noticed the 93 has all but 2 mount points already...just cut the ones that aren't needed on the 89-93, and save the labor on that...I've had no issues with dash noise either, so save yourself some work again.

Wiring wise: Door locks & windows. Lots of extra wires...just match up whats there and for go the rest. Did this to mine and everything works great. Same deal goes for the headlight switches. I think the 89-93 have like 5 wires...94+ have 10...have had no problems with what I have. On all of these there is a white with blue stripe wire...this is for lighting the switches...you can either tap the illumination wiring or for go it depending on what you desire.

Now the most dificult tasks at hand: Steering column and HVAC Controls.

Steering column: Alright unlike both above I kept my 93 column and made my own mounting points since they differ between years. By doing this I saved a lot of time and wiring. I will post pictures for anyone interested in trying this method. Really looks good and again saves a lot of headaches too.

HVAC: Alright I have the Electronic Climate Control unit in my car...as most know the 94+ is the same size as the radio...where the older were bigger. I made mine fit by cutting the dash area and making it so that when the trim is installed it's flush mounted behind it. Again I will have to post pictures so you can get the full understanding of what I did, but it looks like it was ment to go there so I think it passes.

Seatbelts... just switch em... Rod has a great write up on that.

That's all I can think of for now...I will try to get a write up and some pictures up soon.

-Tim
 

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tim please post your pics, after failing at finding at nice 89-93 door panels and dash, i am working on figiring out what i need to do to do the swap. minewill be into a 92 and i am real , real curious about the firewall mounting and the heater boxes, do you need to change any duct work ? i have manual ac in my car . and want to use the same system . and whats needed to use the early column ?
 

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ttt , i am getting a newer column . so just rewire it to the early style parts?
 

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Sorry for the slow reply I've been MIA due to work and travel. I would post pictures however I do not have them at my disposal at this time so sorry for that.

To give you an idea of what I did I will try to explain it.

Question 1: curious about the firewall mounting and the heater boxes, do you need to change any duct work ?

The mounting will be very noticeable once you get to that point in the install. If memory serves me its roughly 3 brackets that have to be removed...again when comparing the to firewalls you will see it plan as day. As for the heater box the duct work mounts right to it.

Question 2: and whats needed to use the early column ?

This was the real PITA of the job but I made it work. I had to remove the rear mounting points off the 89-93 column and also do the same to the 94 column I used. I then cut the 94-97 rear bracket in half and welded it with the correct geometery to the 89-93 column. Then I bored out the front mounting points on the 89-93 column for it to have the extra room it needed to get over the front studs on the 94 dash. Now it mounted great only thing is my Hazzard button is just barely past the dash bezel. Personally i could careless...give it character, and it works...but just FYI if you go this route.

Good luck.

-Tim
 

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ok thanks, i am starting weekend, i have a truckload of stuff coming from a local yard, it will be here tuesday
 
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