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I am swapping a T-45 into my 94 cougar. I have the trans in now, and when I turn the key the car won't start. I assumed it was because the MLPS wasn't there, so I made sure the old trans was in neutral, pulled the MLPS off it, and plugged it in, but the car still won't start. It is acting exactly the same as if it weren't there. I have a chilton's manual on the car, but that thing is useless. It doesn't have any wiring diagrams of the starting system so I can't even try to trace the wires because I don't even know what other things are involved in the starting system. If anyone could please help me with this, I am totally lost and I need to get this car done. Thanks.

Mike
 

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Sheepish
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I wouldn't do too much starting without at least a chip to turn off the electronic transmission functions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
already have a chip.
 

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MadMikeyL said:
I am swapping a T-45 into my 94 cougar. I have the trans in now, and when I turn the key the car won't start. I assumed it was because the MLPS wasn't there, so I made sure the old trans was in neutral, pulled the MLPS off it, and plugged it in, but the car still won't start. It is acting exactly the same as if it weren't there. I have a chilton's manual on the car, but that thing is useless. It doesn't have any wiring diagrams of the starting system so I can't even try to trace the wires because I don't even know what other things are involved in the starting system. If anyone could please help me with this, I am totally lost and I need to get this car done. Thanks.

Mike
Go to the tech articles under transmissions & look up Papa Johns T-45 swap. Towards the end of the article there is a note regarding jumpering 2 leads on a connector that used to be plugged into the automatic. It's part of the neutral lock out circuitry. These leads must be jumpered to start the car. Once you do this your car will turn over whether the clutch is in or not. We have all had to do this.
Good luck
 

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Jumpering the 2 leads did not make it so the car could start. Only thing I could think of is that I must not have plugged something back in when I reinstalled the dash, but I couldn't see anything and I'm not about to pull the dash out again. What I did is I just figured out which wire on the steering column has power only in the crank position, and I cut that wire and spliced onto it and ran a new wire down to the small terminal on the starter. Now the car starts and runs fine. Only thing left is bleed the clutch system, which I can't seem to do. I pump up the pedal, but it seems like it isn't taking any fluid out of the reservoir.
 

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MadMikeyL said:
Jumpering the 2 leads did not make it so the car could start. Only thing I could think of is that I must not have plugged something back in when I reinstalled the dash, but I couldn't see anything and I'm not about to pull the dash out again. What I did is I just figured out which wire on the steering column has power only in the crank position, and I cut that wire and spliced onto it and ran a new wire down to the small terminal on the starter. Now the car starts and runs fine. Only thing left is bleed the clutch system, which I can't seem to do. I pump up the pedal, but it seems like it isn't taking any fluid out of the reservoir.
I assume you are using the McLeod slave/throwout. Do you have the bleeder line coming out the top fitting? In the past I've to pump the crap out of it. The method that seem to work best is to pump the pedal a bunch & then crack the bleeder open to let out the air. Repeat the cycle until you start to get a firm pedal. I have since got a power bleeder from Motive Products www.motiveproducts.com. I've got the universal bleeder but they now have some Ford specific ones. After using one of these I'll never go back to pumping the pedal. You might want to check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nope, no expensive McLeod parts here. Slave cylinder is actually one off an IROC camaro, and the fittings for that and the SC master are the same, and the pushrod that comes with the camaro slave fits right on the stock mustang clutch fork where the cable would normally pull on it. As far as bleeding it goes, I figured it out, and I'm just an idiot so don't mind me. I had filled up the reservoir on top of the rubber diaphragm that expands as the reservoir empties. As soon as I filled it up right, it bled fine. Now the only problem is that the line I had made up blew right off the fitting as soon as I put any pressure on it, so tomorrow morning I am going to have them make one that will hold up and then all I have to do is fix that and put the rest of my interior back together and the car will be good to go.

Mike
 

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Is it even trying to crank? You sure you jumpered the wires correctly? Did you do any other engine mods besides installing the trans. Starter hooked up correctly and grounded? Getting power to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nope it wouldn't crank at all. It would act just like the MLPS wasn't hooked up. Like I said, the only thing I could think of was that I left something unplugged when putting the dash back in, but I couldn't find anything and I looked for about 2 hours before I said screw it and just ran a new wire down to the starter. Now the car starts so whatever was causing it to not start before is going to stay like that cause I hate tracing wires where I can't see them.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't have any, but I can take some for you. It's a pretty simple bracket made out of 1/2" plate steel and bolted to the transmission casing.
 

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MadMikeyL said:
I don't have any, but I can take some for you. It's a pretty simple bracket made out of 1/2" plate steel and bolted to the transmission casing.
Great, I would appreciat it. Also, what kind of line did you have made?

If you can't tell, I'm embarking on the same project in 2-3 weeks, and the clutch line is one of my last hurdles.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The clutch line was a huge hurdle for me too. I went to several hydraulic shops and none of them had ever seen those fittings before, so they wouldn't do anything with them. One shop finally made me a line using this clear plastic tubing and pressing the fittings into that, but they couldn't press them in far enough, and as soon as I got any pressure on it, the line blew off the fitting. I went to another shop and got a different type of line that is plastic inside with fibers around it, and then a black rubber coating over the whole thing and I ended up having to make the line myself, but that one finally worked. Making the line isn't that complicated but you have to do it just right. What you need to do is put the fittings in the freezer for a while, and dip the end of the line in boiling water, then you have to put on a glove or something so you can grab the hot line, and you have to grab the cold fitting and the hot line and shove them together and push down on it with all your weight and shove the fitting into the line before the heat transfers from the line to the fitting and it expands again. Once that is done, go get some high pressure fuel line hose clamps and put one on each end and tighten it down nice and tight. I did all this yesterday and bled the clutch system, and it doesn't leak at all now. Only thing I have to do now is the pushrod that comes with the camaro slave cylinder isn't quite long enough for where I had to mount the slave. I am going today to have it extended by about 1.5 inches, and then I should be good to go. If you didn't want to do that, you could try to figure out a way to mount the slave closer to the front of the transmission, but then you might have problems clearing the catalytic converters if you still have them.

Mike

PS. If you give me your address I can mail you a sample of the type of line that I used so you can take it to the hydraulic shops when you are looking for it and they will have a better idea what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That kit costs $250 just for the lower half. I have a lot less than that into my hydraulic setup. But they probably wouldn't make the line because their master and slave cylinders probably use AN fittings or inverted flare fittings, but I am using an SC master and an IROC camaro slave and they both use the same type of fittings as on the SC. Only problem is no hydraulic shops have ever seen those fittings before so they wouldn't make a line for me because they didn't know how. If you want it to be easier and you have the cash, definitely get that kit, but I did my T-45 swap as cheap as I could (about $1300 total for everything) so that kit was out of the question for me.

Mike
 

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Good for you!!! More people need to think outside the box for alternative ways to do things. You saw something you wanted and found a way to make it work. So I have to ask at that price what did you do for your shifter extension?
 
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