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Discussion Starter #1
1994 lx 4.6 drives like a Ford...................:zwall:



STORY:
A family member gave the car to me with 125,000 miles on the odometer
In February last year.
Car was towed to my house in April. I am the 3rd owner of the car
Last maintenance records where completed when the car had 80,000 miles on odometer.
Maintenance include oil change, transmission fluid change, minor tune up, radiator flush, water pump, timing chain, drive belts.

The car did not run at time of ownership
Problems where
Oil leak
Antifreeze leak
CEL
Won’t rev past 2,500rpm
Dead battery
I replaced the battery and air cleaner, cleaned the maf and oil change. The car was drivable after that but would overheat.
Took it to the shop @ 130,000miles for diagnostic.
Shop said it needed a new radiator, engine overhaul, tranny rebuild and a major tune up
And would complete for $3,300 they didn't even give me the CEL codes either.
After paying $60 I ran far away from there with keys in hand.
Later found out the codes where
PO102 MAF circuit low input
PO156 02 sensor circuit B252
PO161 02Sensor Heater circuit
P1400 DPFE sensor circuit low input
P1407 EGR no flow detected
P0301, 302, 304 misfire cylinder#1 #2 #4

I replaced the radiator, upper/lower radiator hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, oil-sending unit, sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, MAF (used), mercon 5 tranny fluid, tranny filter, Removed metal shaving from tranny pan, replaced several vacuum lines, alternator, PCV, fuel filter, drive belts, ps fluid, brake fluid, new tires
This made my T-bird a different car. I could now chirp 2nd without effort. the car has been running great until about February 9, 2006.

THE BIG PROBLEM:
Although only slight, I hear a death knock, the CEL is still on, car stumbles hard on acceleration, randomly stalls, poor acceleration under full throttle, excessive coolant consumption, sounds like pebbles are in the exhaust, and #3 cylinder is higher compression then the rest. I also notice 1 bad cat, rear diff maybe leaking,


Also I had this code read with the engine off key on. Only one code came up
PO161 02Sensor Heater circuit.
I ghetto checked all 8 fuel injectors with a flathead screwdriver. All have pulses
I ghetto checked all 8 sparkplug wires and all have sparks shooting out of them.
Engine oil looks normal but overfilled slightly
I am using store purchased Drinking water as coolant for now (till problem is corrected)
No oil in coolant.
I am reluctant to change the 02 sensors because I don't think a 02 sensor would cause all these problems.
My current mileage is 140,xxx miles.
I don’t drive hard but have had a few WOT recently after my latest mods completed between February 2-4, 2006
Unbolted the exhaust from resonator,
Welded down pipe underneath car,
Ghetto made cold air intake,
Oil change, radiator flush (I used cheap Wal-Mart stuff this time)

Not 100% but I think the major problem is internally (maybe worn camshaft, or valve's)
The driver side cat is bad, and O2 sensor isn't good (By the way how do I know which of the 4 O2 sensors is bad?). I will conduct a few more tests
Too be more positive on the problem.

any advice welcome. I do all my own work.


Has to be very cost effective solutions (as you can see by my mods im poor :D )
just enough to keep the car running. because Need to renew Insurance, registration is due, wonderful cali smog is due, and I just got a moving voilation by a lampost with a camera to add sugar on top
all bills due in march.
I hardly drive the car now BTW about 600 miles since the new year
thanks in advance for any help
 

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Based on this info and the milage:

"Although only slight, I hear a death knock, the CEL is still on, car stumbles hard on acceleration, randomly stalls, poor acceleration under full throttle, excessive coolant consumption, sounds like pebbles are in the exhaust, and #3 cylinder is higher compression then the rest. I also notice 1 bad cat, rear diff maybe leaking,
"

If it is knocking and sucking coolant the motor is probably shot. Look for a replacement or rebuild or dump the car and get a better one. I bought my 1996 for $400 at a police auction. Look for a wrecked car and swap the power train. I don't think there is a cheap easy fix to this one...

Good luck!

Ed
 

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well, you rattled off all the common egr problems , but you didnt say if you fixed them, what you need to do if you havnt is replace the dpfe, take the upper intake off and clean out the passage , possibly replace the egr valve, and be prepared to replace the egr tube as well , that might take care of your knocking problem , and your cel, if this thing isnt gettign proper egr and is carboned up, it will act like you say it is too
 

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Discussion Starter #5
new problems with the car it won't idle.
I think the IAC is bad also the intake manifold may be leaking and ithe TB is really dirty.
I am going to replace the intake manifold with a 96-97 style manifold and replace the IAC sensor, egr tube and valve, intake manifold gasket and 96-97 fuel rails. hopeful that may fix the problem for a while.
I am also thinking of replacing the headgasket and using reworked/resurfaced NPI cylinder heads with a PI cam, new timing chains, valve cover gasket, headbolts, and exhaust manifold gasket.
I want to verify I have a blown headgasket 1st
I belive all cylinders where tested to have 145 PSI and number 3 cylinder jumped to 170 psi
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok now I have the NPI intake gasket, throttle body gasket and another insulated gasket.
I want to inspect and clean the egr, the egr tube, the round black cylinder thing (next to the firewall and throttle body), the DPFE sensor, and the IAC sensor. I have a extra 1-2 of these parts that I got at the junkyard.

I also grabbed 96+ fuel rails, fuel pressure regulator, IAC, egr and tube, intake tube, TPS sensor, another black cylinder thing (what the hell is that called) and a alternator bracket, from the yard (for free too) while I was there. most parts are from a 96 T-bird and a few where from 97 grand marquis (can't spell) that's


everything on the engine is correctly labeled, all the intake manifold bolt's are removed cross pattern. I attempted to lift the manifold off the cylinder head but it was still stuck it could be moved enuff to remove the intake gaskets. I suspect the egr tube is holding my plans back. after raising the car I realized the egr tube is bolted to the exhaust manifold and the cat converter is in the way of any of my tools (thank you ford). so I unbolted the cat convertor and it still didn't drop. so I found the exhaust mount bolted to the transmission cross member and tried to pry it out. no luck. I began to drop the tranny cross member and realized the tranny needed to be supported. now before I go any further am I doing this the wrong way because this seem like way to much work just to remove the intake manifold.
 
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