TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
my car the last few days has been running pretty sh*tty, it acts like its struggling when picking up speed from 0-40,at about 50 it runs okay i guess. today it acts like it wants to shut off, when i press on the gas it acts like its chocking out,the rpm needle will go up and down, then when i go pedal to the metal it revs up like it normally would sometimes, and sometimes its like bogging out or something.

when in idle it even acts like its kinda chocking out a bit.

my friend thinks its the fuel pump but i had replaced that a few months back.

i did however delete the two front cats on the exhaust.

what could this be?

i checked the air filter which looks new, and cleaned the maf.

im scared it may be the engine dying, but not making the usual loud engine noises a motor about to go would make.

could it be something clogged up? i checked to see if some one put a potato or something in my exhaust but no go, also checked to see if something was stuck in the air intake,but nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,311 Posts
Engines just dont DIE ... they wear out from Lack of Maintenance or somebody messing with things like cutting off the catalytic converters ( without a tune ? ) .. those rear o2 sensors are tripping out and you probably have a Check Engine light. FYI .. cutting off the cats doesnt get you more Horsepower, it just makes problems.

Scan the codes, do a Fuel pressure test.
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
9,454 Posts
RPM needle bouncing around and engine struggling sounds like crank sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
could it be something like spark plugs or a clogged up fuel filter? i replaced the spark plugs and wires about 8 months ago, but tonight i pulled them out and tried cleaning them, they were all corroded looking, i cleaned all the little chunks off of them and put them back in, it seemed to run a little better, but still struggling from 0-40, but once i get it up to speed it smooths out a little.

i replaced the fuel filter about 4-5 months back.

it seems like its either fuel starved or not firing correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
613 Posts
Fuel starving does not make the tach erratic.

You should have a check engine light if it's running that bad. Does it turn on with initial key-on?

Corroded plug wires in under a year sounds weird, too. Did you buy the cheapest available? You're gonna have to replace them anyway, start there but I agree sound like the CPS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
yeah i do have a check engine light on, but i dont have a code reader anymore, the spark plugs were autolite double platinums i bought at autozone one day, so it is sounding like the cps? should i pull it off and clean the contacts on it first or just get a new one?
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
9,454 Posts
With crank sensors it seems like the connection goes awry as often as the sensor itself fails, so clean and check the connection first, then go from there. And before you ask, you can get it out by unbolting the compressor. You don't have to remove it or discharge the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
With crank sensors it seems like the connection goes awry as often as the sensor itself fails, so clean and check the connection first, then go from there. And before you ask, you can get it out by unbolting the compressor. You don't have to remove it or discharge the system.
lol, i was actually about to ask about that:D:D thanks for helping guys!
 

·
Pedal Faster
Joined
·
2,658 Posts
I'd get the codes read before making another move.
 

·
PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
Joined
·
3,868 Posts
Damn I wish I had learned about the CPS before I had to pay a shop a sh*t load to swap it out, and they did disconnect and recharge the AC. I guess you live and learn my CPS made the car hard to start. But my AC had never been serviced to my knowledge so I guess it would have needed it one day.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,150 Posts
Dan pulled my motor out without discharging the AC lol. Just unbolt it and push it to the side. I wonder though if the service manual tells you to discharge and remove it. I don't have mine here with me. Check it out Tim, if it doesn't go back and have them take it off the bill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
613 Posts
Dan pulled my motor out without discharging the AC lol. Just unbolt it and push it to the side. I wonder though if the service manual tells you to discharge and remove it. I don't have mine here with me. Check it out Tim, if it doesn't go back and have them take it off the bill.
That's cake on a 3.8. Different thing.

I disagree about the 'never been serviced' bit. The less A/c's been or needed serviced, the less likely it is to fail or need service.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,150 Posts
Yes there is way more room on a 3.8 and yes the AC is one of those things you just leave it alone if it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,311 Posts
I couldnt say the 3.8 or the 4.6 is easier to work on. They sure are different, but you can only rate difficulty based on what you are comfortable with. While the 3.8 compressor replacement is easier for your everyday home mechanic - I wouldnt mind doing the 4.6 as I could charge more labor hours for a relatively easy project.

True with the 3.8 NA's and SC's, the AC compressor can be unbolted and tied off to the fender without discharging the system.

The 4.6 can also be unbolted to loosen it - although if you want to totally remove it, I have found it necessary to lift the engine to remove the one or two problem bolts as they hit the inner frame rail. If the engine is removed from the vehicle, the AC compressor just sits on the K-member .. it does not need to be discharged either.

Typically the compressor doesnt need to be changed unless there was a catastrophic failure in the system, in which case you might be doing more than just a compressor replacement anyways.

As for the Crankshaft sensor on a 4.6 .. it is not necessary to remove the AC compressor if you are familuar with the setup and can improvise with tools. But even in the case you needed to unbolt it to gain a little more clearance, it is not necessary to discharge the system to up some more room.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
okay,i drove my car all the way from port st lucie florida to elizabeth city,nc yesterday(830 miles), i barely made it.
scan some codes, tell me what you think:

p1443
p1150
p1151
p0171
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
9,454 Posts
1443 - covered many times on this site, do a few searches on the code. Generally it's either replace the EVAP vacuum lines, sensor, or solenoid. You can test the solenoid.

0171, 1150 and 1151 - means the system is so lean on the passenger side it can't adapt.

At this point I'd pull and read all the plugs. Take pictures and report back.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,150 Posts
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top