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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a differential out of an early 90s SC today at the junkyard for a hundred bucks. :) I plan on rebuilding the t-lock with this (www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4700-B/). Is there anything else Im going to need, Ive done some searching but havent found anything substantial. Also, how hard is it just to rebuild the traction-lok, I plan on doing it myself but have zero experience at doing it.
thanks
 

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there is nothing to hard about it. Are you keeping the stock gears that were inside it? If no then it gets a little harder depending on your skill set. The trac loc is easy enough. The gears shouldn't be to bad and you can probably reuse your stock pinion shim if you are planning on the 3.55's mentioned in your sig and they are ford gears.

Always double check pinion depth, gear pattern and backlash though. Have you looked at some of the articles on it?
 

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That kit is to just rebuld the trak-lok unit. That does not include the new bearings to rebuild the diff itself, which I would reccomend doing since the unit just came out of a junkyard and you don't know the condition of it. If you are not rebuilding the diff or changing gear ratios and just looking to swap in a trak-lok unit, then that is all you'll need, plus new gear oil. The only tricky part about putting the trak-lok back together is getting the spider gears lined up right because you have to put them in on the sides perfectly opposite from each other, and then spin it over to get them in position, making sure neither of them drops out. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it lined up right, but other than that, it is pretty straight forward, just put it all back the way it came apart, only with the new parts. The rebuild kit is basically new frictions and steels, and some shims. Just make sure the frictions and steels alternate, and use the shims to get it tighter if the topmost friction is not flush with the top of the trak-lok housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Im just going to order the traction lock kit and keep my fingers crossed that its not thrashed. I also plan on keeping the 3.27s that are in it now for a little while. My sig is outdated and Im going in a different direction. I saved a couple grand for a down payment on a mustang...then found out insurance would be 2650 a year sooo Im gonna do up the thunderbird. I have a couple grand in the bank now and am going to save until spring, by then I should have 5-6k in the bank. Ill be doing an explorer swap with a marauder tc, 3.73 gears, j-mod, cams and a tune. Im not positive what the total cost of it all will be, but if theres anything left over I got some other plans.

Thanks for the info though, mikey, you make it sound like peanuts lol hopefully it gets done without a hitch, if not theres some pretty knowledgeable people here that could shed some light on it.
 

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If you are just replacing the diff itself, it is peanuts. Where it gets slightly more complicated is changing the ring and pinion gear, and where it gets really complicated is if you start with an empty case and don't know what shims came from where and you need to either buy special tools or keep putting it together and taking it back while measuring clearances so you can figure out what size shims are needed where. But since all you are doing is replacing the clutches, the only thing that you need to keep track of is which shim goes on the left and which goes on the right.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
10-4. I just ordered the rebuild kit, hopefully this time next week Ill have this sucker in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Any suggested weight of oil for it, and how much should I need?
 

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2 quarts of 75W90
 

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If you're going to the trouble of replacing the clutches, be sure to replace the "S" spring, the cross shaft/pin, & spider gear thrust washers. These can all be purchased thru Sumitt also.
 

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The kit comes withthe friction modifier.

If you want to go simple and just do the clutches (I have with great success) just match the old shim to a new one and you can try to go the next size larger but I have yet to get that to work. I always end up putting the same shim size that comes out. And the old spring.


Hope it goes well. I did one a year ago I thought was good, 3.8 non sc car, couldn't be beat.... yeah well it made so much noise on the road I had to pull it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just got home from work and had a nice little box on my steps :) It also came with a small bolt about 1 1/2" - 2" thats only thread a quarter way down from the top? I guess Summit is partners with Shick because I also got one of the new Shick Hydro 5 razors too lol.
Now I just have to wait until monday to throw it all in.
 

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Just got home from work and had a nice little box on my steps :) It also came with a small bolt about 1 1/2" - 2" thats only thread a quarter way down from the top? I guess Summit is partners with Shick because I also got one of the new Shick Hydro 5 razors too lol.
Now I just have to wait until monday to throw it all in.
THANK YOU!

little side story....lol

I recently switched razors, I had always used gillette 2 blade crap. Well, I had this shick razor sitting around, and for the life of me, I could not remember where it came from. I knew I got it in the mail, but forgot from who....

thanks for the reminder!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
glad i could be of help lol.
 

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Just got home from work and had a nice little box on my steps :) It also came with a small bolt about 1 1/2" - 2" thats only thread a quarter way down from the top? I guess Summit is partners with Shick because I also got one of the new Shick Hydro 5 razors too lol.
Now I just have to wait until monday to throw it all in.
That bolt holds in the cross pin. It's called the "Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt". It has to be removed in order to remove the cross/pinion shaft. Then you push the axles in to remove the "C" clips in order to remove your axles. It's a big mechanical puzzle. Try this link for a pdf of the differential parts & pieces. http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10281/rearend8-8.pdf
 

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Just got home from work and had a nice little box on my steps :) It also came with a small bolt about 1 1/2" - 2" thats only thread a quarter way down from the top? I guess Summit is partners with Shick because I also got one of the new Shick Hydro 5 razors too lol.
Now I just have to wait until monday to throw it all in.
...be sure to completely soak the clutches in the axle lube for a good day or two before assembly. After you have it all assembled w/the gear lube & friction modifier, & your ready for a test drive, take it to a close open parking lot a& do a series of tight L/H & R/H circles. Just take it easy & drive in circles to get all the lube & friction modifier between the clutches. This will help eliminate chatter w/the new clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, the picture and info were good. It got rid of a lot of that "wtf is this thing gonna look like on the inside?" thoughts lol. Ill also remember to soak the clutches. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Finished the rebuild today. It really was pretty simple once me and my friend realized how everything needed to come apart. I was also able to get the largest shim that came in the kit to fit in there. (.040) So tomorrow Im going to call around and get some prices on how much it would be to put it in, but I talked to someone at a shop today and they gave me a number that made me think about just doing it myself. Hopefully next monday or tuesday Ill have it installed either way. Thanks for all the info.
 
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