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Discussion Starter #1
So I found a deal on a rust free 87 5.0 cat, thinking of grabbing it and doing a stick swap. My questions are,
Will it be a straight forward swap using Fox stang parts such as pedals, trans, bellhousing, clutch, etc?
What needs to be done if anything to the computer in an aod car when swapped?
Anything I will need to watch out for?
 

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Yes its a straight forward swap using fox parts, no nothing needs to be done to the computer when you swap to a 5speed, but when you swap from 5 speed to auto an extra ground is required. I would also upgrade it to mass air as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes its a straight forward swap using fox parts, no nothing needs to be done to the computer when you swap to a 5speed, but when you swap from 5 speed to auto an extra ground is required. I would also upgrade it to mass air as well.
Is there much of a power increase with the mass air swap?
 

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Is there much of a power increase with the mass air swap?
Not so much, but the formula for computing the injector duty cycle is simpler, and can be computed easier - unlike MAP, where you look up a table. Fewer data points, rougher the fit is to the real world.

Banish makes a great explaination of the two in his book.

RwP
 

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The real power to be had is to drop an H.O. 5.0 in it, the stocker is non H.O. so you are looking at 150 hp or so. If I was going that route, I would drop in an Explorer 5.0, with a stock mustang cam, mass air conversion, and mustang computer, you will be right around 275hp at the flywheel then.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The real power to be had is to drop an H.O. 5.0 in it, the stocker is non H.O. so you are looking at 150 hp or so. If I was going that route, I would drop in an Explorer 5.0, with a stock mustang cam, mass air conversion, and mustang computer, you will be right around 275hp at the flywheel then.
What about cam and head swap on the stocker?
Or is the whole bottom end different?
 

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The trans swap will be straight-forward. The only Mustang part that won't be a direct bolt-on will be the driveshaft.

As for the engine differences, the SO 5.0 got cast flat-top pistons, and the HO got forged ones up to 92, then hypereutectic for 93+, and those pistons have valve reliefs in them. If staying with a stock HO cam, then the flat tops are fine, but they are not as strong, and if you want to run a better cam down the road, you will likely need to either cut relief notches into the existing pistons, or swap them out for HO pistons. The Explorer motor has the same cam as the HO mustang, but it also has either GT40 or GT40P heads (depending on the year) and a GT40 style intake manifold. If you can find a wrecked 5.0 explorer, swapping the whole engine out would be cheaper and easier than doing the head and cam swap. Also, an explorer 5.0 with a T5 and some 3.73s in a fox body will make for a very fun car, that would probably still get mid-20s mpg on the highway.
 

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And if you do the explorer swap, more than likely you will end up with GT40P heads, BBK 1515s or 1525s will clear the plugs. You might have to run wire with 90* ends. Plug wires off of an 85 full size blazer work just fine for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Awesome. Cant believe how helpful this forum has been. :)
I did find out one other thing about this cat. It runs while its cold but dies once its warmed up, then wont run again till it cools off.
I'm hoping coil since I have a spare one, but what are the chances its in the distributor?
 

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It is most likely the TFI module. On the fox-body cars, it is mounted right on the distributor, and when it gets heat-soaked, it stops working. Replace it with a new one, and make sure to use some dielectric grease between it and the distributor housing to help dissipate the heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
It is most likely the TFI module. On the fox-body cars, it is mounted right on the distributor, and when it gets heat-soaked, it stops working. Replace it with a new one, and make sure to use some dielectric grease between it and the distributor housing to help dissipate the heat.
Would I be better off to find one that is remote mounted like some that are mounted on the rad support?
 

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Yes you would be better off with a remote mount module. The mid to late 90's Taurus has them, usually found under the air filter box.
 

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You could do that, but that would involve some re-wiring to make it work. As cheap as a new TFI module is, and as long as they will last if mounted properly, I would just swap a new one on and be done with it for another 10+ years and 100K+ miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I ran the car tonight for about 20-30 minutes with no stalling but it was low on coolant and didnt seem to be warming up. Its fairly cold out tonight so maybe just not enough heat built up to cause the stalling issue.
A bit more info on the car, it turns out its the 20th anniversary model, so far it appears everything works except the power moon roof. I can here the motor running when I hit the switch. Hoping the moonroof parts from my 90 supercoupe parts car will fit.
Did a little research on the anniversary edition and it was definately a nice car in its day. The heated seats even still work. :)
 
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