I think this would be the ultimate solution for that, could be made for the taillight housing as wellMine looks just like the OP. I need to finally get a round tuit.
I'm wondering about the sequential mod. Since the panel appears a little brighter at the bottom where the LED strip is, would sequencing them really look that good? It seems to me that it might advertise the fact that panel diffusion (scattering, distribution, whatever you want to call it) isn't perfect.
I could do 10 of these for about $250 each; you wouldn't believe how expensive it is outside China.I think this would be the ultimate solution for that, could be made for the taillight housing as well
Who's good at making smd circuit boards?
A quick Giggle:I could do 10 of these for about $250 each; you wouldn't believe how expensive it is outside China.
Flex is really bad.
I'd buy one of those and modify it.
Do you have a link?
I attempted disassembly in this manner, I destroyed them. It's just easier to cut the slot, and then you have the security of the tough as nails factory weld to continue keeping it together. Bear in mind the assembly is NOT sealed, nor are any of the light housings, they all have breathers somewhere to balance the air(they're on the bottom corner on the back of the housings, and if clogged will make moisture inside stay inside, which probably is what helps kill these in the first place. Cleaning them out is easy. After you cut out the slot fill them with soap, spray the inside with a garden hose, fill them up, drain them, repeat until they're clean, and use a hair drier to dry them as much as you can and then place them in the sun over the course of a warm day.My panel fixed itself! I happened to walk to the rear of my Bird the other night and both sides were fully illuminated.
I guess if water was the culprit, then it must have dried out enough for the cure. If it's a broken PCB trace or cold solder joint(s), then I must have just caught it on a good night.
It could be going on and off sporadically while I'm driving down the road! I should get someone to follow me to find out.
Unfortunately, water got in, so I know the panel isn't going to be clean inside. That thought, and the prospect of more seeping in, is going to bother me for as long as I have the car, so I should perform a repair, even though the panel is [for now] functional again.
My question is: why is it such a bad idea to cut the entire back off of the assembly, instead of cutting just around the LED strip?
This would eliminate the issue of maintaining proper reflection from the replacement strip. I know most people use aluminum tape to try to compensate for this loss.
It would also provide full access to the entire interior of the assembly for cleaning and working with the strip (and doing other mods).
The proper adhesive would adequately weld the housing together.
Thin flow (windshield) silicone caulk around the cut should render it waterproof.
Silicone caulk could be used instead of solvent, if it grabs the plastic well enough, and it should hold up well against vibration and shock.
Industrial adhesive tape (black, I would think) could be applied around the cut to help ensure the two parts stay together.
If the assembly leaked, it needs to be sealed somehow anyway.
Has anyone tried heating the OEM weld and simultaneously applying tension to try to pop it apart? I'm thinking a flat blade screwdriver or similar wedge tool. Another thought: how about using vibration (e.g., massager) with or w/o heat at the point where the tension tool is being applied? There must be a way to break the OEM bond w/o destroying the assembly, especially considering it's weakened enough with age that it separated enough to allow water in.
Once dirty water has gotten in, the only way I can see to clean the assembly interior after cutting only around the LED strip would be with an alcohol wash, which may leave residue borders (perhaps even with the costly 99.9% alcohol). If the residue never reveals itself, then obviously it won't matter.
Is an alcohol wash how y'all clean your assemblies that have been compromised?
If water leaked in at the top or sides, then the factory weld is already compromised, at least in spot(s). I was just thinking that, since my car is suffering from plastic embrittlement (engine bay and some exterior), perhaps the OEM lens weld could be safely defeated. This weld is ultrasonic, correct? I know it doesn't really matter in terms of being able to safely separate it, but I'm just verifying.I attempted disassembly in this manner, I destroyed them. It's just easier to cut the slot, and then you have the security of the tough as nails factory weld to continue keeping it together.
I may try something like this instead of garden-variety soap or detergent.After you cut out the slot fill them with soap, spray the inside with a garden hose, fill them up, drain them, repeat until they're clean, and use a hair drier to dry them as much as you can and then place them in the sun over the course of a warm day.