never wrong to get that fuel filter changed too...also the air filter...and remove that silencer....MAF as stated above is a very good start too...check the tranny fluid too
ive had all the fluids changed after i bought it, changed air filter, I think ill get codes checked.
It also shakes a bit on idle...when i sit at a stop light for a couple seconds etc etc ...and it kidna rumbles...so i put it in neutral it stops so usually ill sit in neutral at lights.
Perhaps get tranny checked out too
If if comes to it I might just have to Put in a new create 5.0 and a nice strong tranny. And the old drive shaft out....now i just need the $9k to do it all....Ill stick to code check
If if comes to it I might just have to Put in a new create 5.0 and a nice strong tranny. And the old drive shaft out....now i just need the $9k to do it all....Ill stick to code check
Anyone know what's wrong with my car, because the Check Engine Light is on?
It is so much easier to diagnose over the internet, then to go someplace local and for anywhere from free to $30 bucks, get the codes, and find out for sure.
j/k But seriously, start by getting the codes, and post them here
down on power and a slightly rough idle....sounds like a dirty maf. go to autozone and get the codes scanned, clean your maf and reset the eec. thats free and might fix your problem. If the code comes back you can rule out a dirty maf and it cost you nothing.
dont do anything till you find out the code as theres a chance with little engine knowledge you could hurt something else, dont ask more online, get the code checked, or take it to 94 Tbird he may be able to find out whats broken as im sure he knows birds, find out the code man youll have an easyer time
Yeah, both banks are reading lean and a cylinder 4 missfire. Cylinder 4 missfire is random though, only happened a couple times on our trip to Autozone and back - seems to stick to real low RPMS and acceleration from a stop. ~WOT and it goes away.
I'm trying to connect the two....
Aside from the random Missfire, I really didn't notice any drivability problems from the passenger seat....
(off to search)
-dubbsy
(if I had tools, yes, I'd just start taking stuff apart and checking it. But all of my tooks are in my other vehicle at home)
i just had a p0171 code and it took me 3 weeks (and 3 mechanics) to find out what it was. i had a very very small leak in one of my valve cover gaskets and it was messing with my pcv system. so a new gasket is all it needed and the problem was solved. do a search for p0171 and p0174. i found a ton of info on those two codes when i was trying to figure mine out. there are a bunch of possibilities with these two codes. First things i would check are the spark plugs, spark plug wires and o2 sensors. and clean the maf. if that doesnt take care of it then go throught the list of possibilties that you'll find when you search.
thats one thing, the two lean codes are either bad 02's or a bad maf, check those, i had the exact same problem a while ago, id say take your car to a ford dealer, tell them to run codes and find out whats broken, and for sure tune your car up, but theres more to it then just a tune up, the ford dealer can find out for around 100 bucks what exactly is wrong, i did that b/c my maf was reading ok and i thought my 02s were bad, they baro tested the maf, it was bad, even tho the voltage was alright, but sound to me like you got a bad maf and you need a tune up, or bad 02s and need a tune up
You might want to try cleaning the MAF and drive test it. If that doen't improve the problem, then try disconnecting the MAF and test driving. See if the accelaration issue goes away. It may not idle right, and may throw a code for the MAF being unplugged.
codes 0171 and 0174
HA41 DTCs P0172, P0174, P0171 AND P0175: FUEL SYSTEM AT THE CORRECTED ADAPTIVE LIMITS
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0171 bank (1) (cylinder #1) and DTC P0174 bank (2) indicate the fuel/air ratio is too lean. The fuel adaptive system is at the rich correction limit.
DTC P0172 bank (1) and DTC P0175 bank (2) indicate the fuel/air ratio is too rich. The fuel adaptive system is at the lean correction limit.
DTCs HO2S Reference list:
-- HO2S-11 = DTCs P0171 and P0172
-- HO2S-21 = DTCs P0174 and P0175
Possible causes:
Fuel system
-- Excessive fuel pressure.
-- Leaking fuel injector(s).
-- High fuel pressure.
-- Low fuel pressure.
-- Contaminated injector(s)
Ignition
-- Spark plugs.
-- Plug wires.
-- Coils.
Induction system
-- Air leaks after the MAF.
-- Vacuum leaks.
-- Restricted air inlet.
-- PCV system.
-- Improperly seated dip stick.
Base engine
-- Oil overfill.
-- Cam timing.
-- Cylinder compression.
-- Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S's.
l Check air intake for leaks, obstructions and damage.
l Check air filter, air filter housing for blockage.
I never had any missfires but I just thought at one time after I had bought the car "I wonder if the MAF could use a cleaning?" So I found some info on the net about cleaning MAF and followed instructions. In fact, I found the info in the tech articles here on TCCoA. Anyways, I cleaned the MAF sensor wires and put it all back together and it was like a new car! It shifted firmer, ran alot smoother, acceration was awsome and MPG went up a few. When I bought the car I could get about 27-28 MPG then it kept going down after I installed the K&N. I guess the oils were getting to the sensor. Also about a month after I bought the car I changed the plugs to Bosch platinums. It started a cyl 4 miss code about another month later. Took it to the dealership where I bought it and they checked the code, then the plugs and they put Motorcraft plugs in and never had a problem again.
Clay
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