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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, it's been a while.

I have a question about my cooling system. The car does real well until the engine is under a load, such as A/C is on, going up a hill and it's 98+ outside. Then the meter is hitting near HOT where it usually runs 3/8 to 1/2 on the meter.

The mechanic that looked at my car a while back said I have coolant leaking into the head, where the leak was he was not sure. But he said to just leave it alone. But now summer is here and the car is getting hot like I mentioned.

Can a coolant leak cause the engine temp to go up that much?

Oh, BTW: New radiator, new t-stat, new pump. So the leak was the last thing I could think of why the engine gets so hot under load.
 

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If coolant is leaking into the head, that sounds a lot like a head gasket leak, which is never a good thing. You should definitely get that checked out.
 

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Yes a coolant leak may cause an engine to overheat. A leak will cause a loss of pressure in the system, and low pressure will lower the boiling temp. of the coolant.

Use a scan tool to give an accurate reading of engine coolant temp.

I would top-off the system to proper level, and pressure test the radiator with a hand pump, and look for leak(s).

Make sure the t-stat' is in fact opening. This can be done by placing it in a sauce pan on the stove using a thermometer to gauge the temp. in which it opens.

Make sure the fan is coming on. Esp. with the A/C on. Remember the fan speed is low/high. If it stays at low speed all the time there is a problem.

A neglected cooling system may also have clogged water jackets, etc...

Least we forget the possibility of a blown head gasket(s). Look for coolant in the oil. Chocolate milkshake on the dip stick, and oil in the coolant reservoir. And excess steam coming out the exhaust.

Sometimes a head gasket leak can be so small duplication of complaint cannot be verified by above mentioned means. There is a tester that attaches to the radiator cap (reservoir), and has a small container with a fluid that changes color if the presence of carbon monoxide is detected. Yellow to green, or I've seen some that change to purple. This method will detect even the smallest pin hole failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Excellent suggestions guys, thank you very much.

I know the t-stat is good because the car was acting worse than this with temps all over the place. I pulled the stat and it was jacked good. Since the temps have been stable until recently under the circumstances mentioned in the first thread, I am ruling out the stat.

I suspect the drivers side head gasket since the passenger side went out a couple years back. DO NOT BUY CHEAP HEAD GASKETS!!! Buy Fel Pro if unsure of what is good. I will run some compression tests to see what I get.

I have a rad tester, so I can check that and do a visual scan on the engine to see where I might have NEW leaks (these engines are crap when it comes to leaks).

And of course I get the smell of rad fluid after driving the car so it is leaking onto the block somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Started the quest

Got down to the bare lower intake last night. Hopefully tonight I can get the intake off and the head and start cleaning things up. THen put it all back together this weekend.

I decided to just fix the car since it does run well and is a good car.

Needs a stereo though... :tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Got it all out and realized I don't need to do the head, just the intakes, top and botttom. I think the leak is coming from the lower intake. If I had head gasket issues, the engine would not run as well as it does.

Photos here:

http://s694.photobucket.com/user/Golden_Mark/media/1994 Mercury Cougar/IMG_4114_zps43125dc9.jpg.html?sort=6&o=0#/user/Golden_Mark/media/1994 Mercury Cougar/IMG_4114_zps43125dc9.jpg.html?sort=6&o=0&_suid=1371361122355021039761126773365

I was going to clean the lower intake the old fashioned way and then I thought I would try some EasyOff oven cleaner. That stuff is great! I don't have a before picture, but beleive me it looked pretty bad. I even used it on the bolts and the valve cover. I have a can of gloss black engine paint incase the oven cleaner eats the paint off the cover. But it didn't.

I threaded the bolts and bolt holes as well as scraped off the heads where the intake mounts and the intake where the gasket was. Came out looking pretty nice, I was impresses. I should have it up and running tomorrow afternoon, or tomorrow night.

After I get it back together, I am going to flush the cooling system and run some engine cleaner through the engine then change the oil.

Any suggestions on what kind of engine cleaner to use?
 

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For cleaner, I've been using the Gunk Engine Flush (I presume you mean oil system cleaner).

Take that for what it's worth - free advise, worth what it cost you :diablo:

RwP
 

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I've been using the Gunk Engine Flush (I presume you mean oil system cleaner).
X2

I usually pour it in the crankcase..Let my car idle for about 5-10 minutes..Then drain the oil..

I'm guilty of not buying the most expensive oil..So when I do my oil changes..I want to know I get all the Gunk out.. :D


Rayo..
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Excellent. Thanks guys.

Yep, when cleaning the lower intake ports and bolt holes, a lot of crap was falling into the towel I had in the upper block. Even though I got most of it and had the intake and cooling ports plugged, crap still falls in there, not to mention the look of this oil after only 1000 miles.

Note* I did some research on Gunk engine flush and noticed that it had mixed reviews. I also went the to Gunk web site and found they do not list it. Hmmmmm.....

I think I will just change the oil after I am done. I was religious in changing my oil and am concerned that even after taking care of the car, the build up I found in the valve cover and block tells me that I may end up with sludge in the oil pan and it will gunk up the oil pump.

Is there a write up on dropping the oil pan on these engines?
 

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Take the lazy method then - switch to Mobil 1 full synthetic and do about four 3,000 mile changes.

It's amazing how much cleaner the fourth one will be ...

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Take the lazy method then - switch to Mobil 1 full synthetic and do about four 3,000 mile changes.

It's amazing how much cleaner the fourth one will be ...

RwP
Interesting, very interesting.

I also read you can drop a bottle of ATF in and it will clean the engine as well. Or for that matter, kerosene. :D
 

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yep, all the detergent in the mobil cleans your motor out like exlax. its crazy awesome. my first oil change was at like 1k because it started burning through quarts like mad. that stuff looked like brown dek-a-cake plopping out of the drain-plug. :D

I'd still be running it if my valve seals in my 4.6 weren't so bad it stinks and smokes on anything synthetic.

also don't forget the Prestone Clean while your at it, toss in some distilled water and that stuff, run it for a month or so then dump it out and put in the green.

its probably also a good time to change the hoses on your cooling system, and try to clean off the AC condenser with a hose pipe sprayer from the engine compartment out.

after all that i doubt very much you'll have issues with temps.
 

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Interesting, very interesting.

I also read you can drop a bottle of ATF in and it will clean the engine as well. Or for that matter, kerosene. :D
Well, yah. ATF is basically something like detergents with some 5 or 7 viscosity oil :diablo:

I'll stick with Mobil 1 or Gunk Engine Flush, thankyouverymuch. I've seen what ATF can do to bearings on the old flathead motors, not interested in verifying the new materials are better.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the comments, I do appreciate the input. I posted another thread about putting the intake back together.
 

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For cleaner, I've been using the Gunk Engine Flush (I presume you mean oil system cleaner).

Take that for what it's worth - free advise, worth what it cost you :diablo:

RwP
X2

I usually pour it in the crankcase..Let my car idle for about 5-10 minutes..Then drain the oil..

I'm guilty of not buying the most expensive oil..So when I do my oil changes..I want to know I get all the Gunk out.. :D


Rayo..
What about a whole can of SeaFoam? Will that work just as well or is Gunk Engine Flush better than SeaFoam?
 

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What about a whole can of SeaFoam? Will that work just as well or is Gunk Engine Flush better than SeaFoam?
Depends on what you're doing.

I can buy the Gunk for about half the price of SeaFoam, and Gunk Just Plain Works.

But eh. I still buy Berryman :diablo:

RwP
 

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check your radiator cap (3.8) or resovior tank cap (4.6). also Make sure your tstat is working properly, you can test it by Boiling it and watching it open. if it doesent... get a new t-stat and do the same thing before installing it into the vehicle.
 

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