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Discussion Starter #1
When I finished my 4.w engine swap, little did I know that I had pinched a splice for the TPS.. So for the first 10 miles I drove the car, I was not impressed with the performance. Eventually, I caught the problem and was REALLY impressed with the added torque-- so much so, that I hardly cared about the apparent lack of power up top. Soon after that, I had planned to go to the track, and I set my timing to 10 degrees- which I believe is stock. I had assumed that Jerry knew his timing for the 4.2L and let the chip do the timing work. I drove the car around to let it program, went to the track, found the best IMRC RPM pill, and ran a best of 16.3-- Not bad considering 1PHATV8's Cougar ran that fast at best. I was happy.

As many of you know, soon after that, I moved to CA. After finally being settled down, and having a nice job, I decided it was time to finish unpacking the garage. I finally found my timing light, which had been forgotten for the better part of 5 months. A couple of days ago, I decided it was time to mess with my timing. I put it to 12 degrees and started it up. The exhaust note was different (still sounded like crap, though) and it revved smoother in neutral.

To make an unnecessarily long story shorter, the car has a lot more balls at the top end than before! This whole time, I was blaming it on my stock fuel-pump. Moral of the story: Make a timing light a CRUCIAL part of your garage if your car has a distributor.

PJ
 

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i also run 12 degrees base timing and have the fordchip...it seems to run pretty good...i tried 14 degrees but it seemed like it wanted to stall at a stop
 

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thats the nice thing about a distributor
Stock Fuel pump held up to my mods just fine on the dyno, you are putting out the same amount of power with a STOCK 4.2L and have better TQ under the curve, I think you could get a 16.0 out of her in the 1/4
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm sure I can break into 15s at sea level. I just need to figure out where the nearest track is at low alts, then get off my *** and go. But I want to get a new wheel or two first.

PJ
 

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Can I advance the timing on a mostly stock V-6 without causing problems? And would there be any benefit to it?
 

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sure...fill it with 93 octane...try 12 degrees or 14 degrees...if 14 is too much, back it down a degree or two...if the octane isnt high enough at 14 degrees for example you will most likely get a poor idle or pinging...14 degrees didnt ping on my motor but i think the 93 octane gas isnt high enough for my motor...
 

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Cougar Pilot
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The highest I can find around here at a gas station is 92, I do know people who work at the airport, so I can get 100 octane, just would cost me a bit.
 

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DON"T RUN THE 100 OCTANE FROM THE AIRPORT!!! I'm an aircraft mechanic on small planes, the 100 octane gas at the airport has a ton of lead in it to boost the octane rating. In fact, 100 low lead avgas still has more lead in it than any auto gas ever had (even back in the 60's). That lead will screw up your oxygen sensor and plug your cats. Unless you have a carb and don't have any cats, don't use it. Some additional advice: (1) It's illegal to run this stuff on the road because there's no road tax on it.(2) If you do want to buy it, bring in gas cans and tell the gas guys your buying it for your friend who is working on his plane somewhere else on the airport.(3) Don't tell them it's going in anything but an airplane! Good Luck.
 

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Just some additional stuff. 100 octane avgas really has two ratings. One is for a leaned condition as in level flight at reduced power. This is where the 100 rating comes from. The other is for high power settings with a rich mixture as when taking- off or climbing. With a rich mixture the actual octane rating of 100 avgas acts as if it's 130 octane. I used to run it in my VW beetle with milled heads (11:1 comp.) it was better than any pump gas I could find.
 
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