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Discussion Starter #1
I finished putting the last of the parts into the Cougar on Saturday (see pics). I am going to go by and talk to Maaco about the paint job I got and see if I can get some money back from what I was offered, what I received and what I expected. To not offer me their various services (types of paint coats) and just give me a one coat paint and not tell me to expect if to have some orange peel is not acceptable. I am not pissed, they did a lot of labor and the hood underneath looks great, but really? To just give me one service and not offer something better? Anyway, we will see.

So, the engine compartment bulb would not work when I hooked it up and I tested the bulb from the Town Car in the Cougar and it would not work. I tracked down the problem to the little cylinder in the engine compartment socket (bulb assembly). It is a cylinder looking thing and I am not sure quite what it is cause the service manual does not mention nor does the Ford order catalog. The item is around $25 to $35 (eBay is such a rip off anymore) but I don't need the whole thing. Can I stick a penny in there? lol

I went to the junk yard and you are not going to believe this.... EVERY FRIKEN ONE OF THE YEARS OF FORDS THAT HAVE THAT ITEM IN WHERE GONE!!!! EVERYONE OF THEM! I finally had to say frack it and go home after going up and down every alie only to be disappointed that someone had already taken the part out. I mean REALLY? Even the new cars that had just come in a week ago - GONE!

In case your wondering what the model number is:
Mercury E8LY-15702-A
E8LY-15702-ALamp Assy - Engine Compartment 15702 YW1Z-15702-BA $38.15 $26.78
E8VY-15702-ALAMP ASY - ENGINE CO 15702 YW1Z-15702-BA $38.15 $26.78

Anyone have an extra the would want to sell?
 

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Your car looks really nice. Good job keeping her up.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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So, the engine compartment bulb would not work when I hooked it up and I tested the bulb from the Town Car in the Cougar and it would not work. I tracked down the problem to the little cylinder in the engine compartment socket (bulb assembly). It is a cylinder looking thing and I am not sure quite what it is cause the service manual does not mention nor does the Ford order catalog. The item is around $25 to $35 (eBay is such a rip off anymore) but I don't need the whole thing. Can I stick a penny in there? lol

I went to the junk yard and you are not going to believe this.... EVERY FRIKEN ONE OF THE YEARS OF FORDS THAT HAVE THAT ITEM IN WHERE GONE!!!! EVERYONE OF THEM! I finally had to say frack it and go home after going up and down every alie only to be disappointed that someone had already taken the part out. I mean REALLY? Even the new cars that had just come in a week ago - GONE!

In case your wondering what the model number is:
Mercury E8LY-15702-A
E8LY-15702-ALamp Assy - Engine Compartment 15702 YW1Z-15702-BA $38.15 $26.78
E8VY-15702-ALAMP ASY - ENGINE CO 15702 YW1Z-15702-BA $38.15 $26.78

Anyone have an extra the would want to sell?
These things are a pain. The reason they get rid of them I think may be because they have mercury in them; the liquid metal rolling backwards as the hood opens is how it closes the contacts to complete the circuit and turn on the light. Often though the wires to it short out by the master cylinder and cause other issues, so a lot of people ditch them.
 

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Cougar looks great great, good job! :)

Over the years, a lot of people here have had problems with the under hood light causing shorts. Most just eliminated it and moved on.

Joe
 

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If you get one off a newer Ford (2000ish maybe) they have a high failure rate. The newer ones switched to a metal ball style switch instead of the Mercury switch.
They do seems to go for 20-30 dollars on ebay so I'm not surprised they are all missing out of the junkyards.

Your Cougar looks really good. Is that a factory color?
 

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When we got our 04 CVPI, the light bulb was missing. I tried putting in a bulb, but it did nothing. Do I likely just need to splice in a new socket to fix it?

Thanks,
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #8
These things are a pain. The reason they get rid of them I think may be because they have mercury in them; the liquid metal rolling backwards as the hood opens is how it closes the contacts to complete the circuit and turn on the light. Often though the wires to it short out by the master cylinder and cause other issues, so a lot of people ditch them.
NOW that makes sense. Yes, if the yard has 100 of these in the yard, it is a hazard so they get pulled before the car hits the yard. Now I understand why they were all missing.

I will track down the issue in the wiring since that is just a level switch. Maybe I could just put an actual switch there to turn my light on? lol...

My Town Car has a switch on the fender well that when you close the lid, the switch shuts off the light. Also, it has a timer that after (I think) 15 minutes, the light goes out.. .for the hood and the trunk. VERY nice feature.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for the compliments.

I went with the factory color because I did not want the car looking weird when I open the doors or hoods and see a different color inside the car. Always bothered me when people would do that. Looks so getto. This way, everything matches. Plus, we really like the color of the car, always have. Easy on the eyes, natural color.

When I had my Mark VII, I hated the brown color and was always thinking of ways to try and paint it gold, white or beige or something to try and match the brown so I could at least do a two tone color combo. I ended up selling it. One of the reasons was it needed a paint job and I did not want to mess with trying to match colors.

Thanks everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When we got our 04 CVPI, the light bulb was missing. I tried putting in a bulb, but it did nothing. Do I likely just need to splice in a new socket to fix it?

Thanks,
Al
The socket assembly on my Cougar comes apart from the wiring. It has a connector. Or disconnect it from the engine compartment and use an ohm meter to see if you get connection from one end of the lamp wiring to the other when you have the hood open and when it's closed. It depends on how the hood shuts off the light. Check fuses too, but I doubt that's the issue if nothing else is broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hood Light - 1989 - 1997 - WWW.TBSCSHOP.COM

here's one for $20

Maaco painted my 84 Rabbit in the 80's...it sucked, didn't even sand the base coat, just painted over it.
Damn... I have to wonder about my car.. .but I did go by when they were working on the car and they showed me that they had sanded most of the car including the hood. You have to wonder if they do the work they say they did... or how well they did it. I really wanted to do this myself, but with all the work that went into it, I am glad I didn't. As nit picky as I am, it would have taken me 6 months to get the body ready to paint.

Next time I am doing it cause it sucks to trust other people that do not know you or care about you or your car to do the work. Yes, I have trust issues... :p

Since the device from the lamp socket to the engine bay connection metered out fine, I have to suspect that it is in the wire at the engine bay somewhere as term93 mentioned earlier.

"We don't need no stinkin' hood light!"

Thanks for the feedback!
 

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You could try taking your hood switch and shaking it back and forth. I have fixed one or two in the past just by shaking them- that seemed to get them unstuck.
 

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...

Since the device from the lamp socket to the engine bay connection metered out fine, I have to suspect that it is in the wire at the engine bay somewhere as term93 mentioned earlier.

.
The bundle that goes to the hood light is a spot that causes weird shorts over time; If you aren't using it, I'd remove the wire, and route it under the cowl, out of the way.

It shorts where it flexes.

That switch is a mercury switch; it doesn't surprise me that they are removing them.

Mercury is the easiest explosive to make, so they may have more than one reason. :)
 

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One possibility is to add some kind of a lever arm microswitch in the engine bay to toggle the power, then put a string of LEDs around inside the hood.

It's what I'm thinking about doing, anyway.

(Well, you could also use a pin switch on a bracket ... )

You can also pick up tilt switches; the problem is that they tend to activate at odd times when you park on a steep enough hill (and alas, the 15* driveway qualifies ... )

Or, they do make SPDT reed switches; use that on the hood and a magnet on the inner fender to match, or vice versa, and use that to toggle the light.

There's ways around the old mercury switch, though.

RwP
 
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You can also pick up tilt switches; the problem is that they tend to activate at odd times when you park on a steep enough hill (and alas, the 15* driveway qualifies ... )

...
RwP
I updated Lazarus with mark lcas last year, and added sport springs in the rear, with the konis.

There's no rear seats, (or anything else in the back besides the rstb and a full size spare) and I kept seeing flashes of light behind me on big bumps...

Yup; the mercury switch in the deck lid was splashing when I hit expansion lines on the interstate.

The next time I have everything loose, I'm going back to the std v8 springs. :)



I'd do the lights on a reed switch, like you said, and stick a magnet on a cord nearby; that way it's sealed inside HST for environmental resistance, it's switchable by moving the magnet, and you have a magnet on a cord there if you need one. :)

A broomhandle with a big neo magnet with a hole in the middle for a screw is probably the most useful thing in my toolset. :)

The ones in the store will pick up a bolt; this will pick up a full can of paint from the wall behind the big toolbox, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That switch is a mercury switch; it doesn't surprise me that they are removing them.

Mercury is the easiest explosive to make, so they may have more than one reason. :)
And here I thought it was some yahoo taking them all out cause they can grab those at no cost to them and walk out of the yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got the switch to work after checking several things. First, I took the light socket apart and cleaned and inspected the contacts and ran a continuity check to make sure I had contact from one end the other. At first it did not work, but after cleaning the contacts for the mercury switch and the mercury switch ends, I had contact. I then connected a meter to the connector in the engine bay by the master cylinder. It had 12v and no issues with breaking the connection when wiggled or moved. I hooked up the original wire and tested the light, it worked. I hooked it all up to the hood and it would not work. Playing with it after taking off the hood again, it worked fine.

Turns out i had the lamp upside down. The bulb points down, not up or towards the front of the car.

I have an engine light now and don't have to go find one.

Problem solved.

Thanks all for putting in your two cents on this issue.

PS: I washed the car for it's first time since the new paint job and got a few other things fixed as well. I used used back to black on the black trim of the windows, glued down the rubber trim in the doorways and fixed a broken parking lamp socket. Busy day!
 
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