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Thank you for those clarifications. The contradictions coming from the suppliers was frustrating. I still wonder why they show a shaped gasket; earlier model pump perhaps, even though crossed to my '96?

This is what it looks like
I actually saw that pic earlier while browsing the mod threads and it looks as easy as pie... with the engine out. :D

I had read about drilling back there and I pretty much stopped reading at that point, as I just can't see how I'd get at it for involved maneuvers with the head on the car.

If it's as simple as removing the plug (and if THAT itself is easily done) and using existing holes in the head, I might be able to get at it, but it's a PITA just getting the #8 plug in/out as it is.

Anyone have pics of their hands back there doing this mod with the head on-car?
 

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The only way to do this on-car would be to remove the wiper cowl, the way you have to to get the brake booster out. :)

If you have a loose head to do the alignment of the cutting/bracket-making part of the install, that would help.

To get it out, you need to hit it with a hammer and punch at the bottom, so the top tips out; grab it with vicegrips, put something between the grips and head, and lever it out.

Scotch brite any glue lines that might be there; sometimes, they use glue... :confused:

DO NOT drive it into the head, it will be in the way. :)

I use vasoline to help o-rings go in; I started the screws, and used them to pull it down.

IIRC, the bolts are 8mm x 20mm; they could be 6x20mm, it's been awhile.
 

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I need to remove the cowl anyway to finish the Color Back restorer treatment. Maybe I'll try to dig around back there and get 'er done. I still haven't received the manifold (Butler MacMaster $190 shipped), so I have some time to think it over.
 

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I've had a coolant leak under pressure for the last bit on Lazarus; I checked everything today, and the drivers' side intake manifold bolts were finger loose.

I torqued them back down, and everything seems to be fine; it looks like I picked up ~1" of vacuum as well. :)

If it still leaks, I'll have to take it apart and redo the gaskets. :(
 

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I checked the torque on the manifold bolts prior to condemning it.
I reckon it's cracked.

A tour of the engine bay yesterday revealed more coolant on the driver's side than I've seen since the misfire code was thrown.

I have yet to get another DTC, even though the idle is rough. I'm sure the plugs are again fouled. Evidently, it just hasn't been bad enough to make the PCM panic.

I'll let y'all know when I receive the new manifold and the condition it arrived in.
 

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I've never had tightening a gasket to fix anything, lol.

I'm going to order new gaskets today.

I had problems with the sealing surface on the head when I did the pi swap; the head surface was corroded fairly bad.
This could be my problem; although I can't imagine what would cause the bolts to loosen up.
 

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after first warm up and cool down will do that.

I had to do the same thing to make sure the bolts stayed at 18 foot pounds.

I know it is weird but it is also a pain in the neck to double check but it is a good thing I think
 

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Those have been on for years; they were properly torqued, the rtv was allowed to dry, then run hard several times and rechecked due to the corrosion issue.

Intake bolts only get blue locktite, but the fact it apparently loosened makes me reconsider that.

The alternative is that the gasket shrank, loosening the bolts.

Being that there was damage to the surface, black rtv was basically used to glue the gaskets in.

Black rtv ultra doesn't have issues until 400c; there would be other problems by then. :)

The torque curve on the bolts going back in were similar, and it felt like it sat back down on the flat surface.

Pretty much like the bolts loosened by themselves; Is this the direction the alternator pulls? :eek:
 

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I hadn't planned on using an anaerobic on the threads. Is it really necessary and, if so, is it because it's PI instead of NPI? The bolts were tight on my leaky NPI, so I just wondered if these PI replacements are more prone to bolts loosening than the NPI ones. Or is the likelihood of this occurring directly proportional to the level of corrosion/pitting on the heads?
 

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I'll let you know after next weekend; I'll be doing gaskets.

It leaked, but did not overheat in a 10mph run on the interstate yesterday.

I won't deal with unreliable, so it comes out. :)

I'll try to take pix. :D
 

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gathering

Some of you may be interested in sources/prices and vendor performance.
The intake and dealer parts have arrived.

I ordered the intake from Butler MacMaster on 4-14 for $189.99 shipped.
It shipped via UPS on 4-21 and it arrived on 4-28. They sent it in the original FRPP factory box. Fortunately, it arrived in good shape, despite lack of extra protection (with UPS it's needed!).
It's the lowest final price I could find, and the FRPP box is dated 4-16-14 (UPC label) so it's a very fresh unit.
If you're in a hurry, though, you may want to shop elsewhere for yours.

Dealer parts were ordered from AutoNation (formerly Tousley Ford) on 4-21, shipped via UPS on 4-22 and arrived 4-25.
They have the lowest prices I could find on these:
F75Z8555AA: nipple, $7.79
XR3Z18B402AA: hardline tube, $29.12
F1VY8507A: SEAL-4.0 I.D. O RIN (shown in parts catalogs as a shaped water pump "gasket" is actually an o-ring), $3.49
F1VY8255A: SEAL - 15.08 I.D O (thermostat o-ring; it's a good fit/# despite the listed I.D.), $5.34
7L3Z8575B: 190°F thermostat, $11.90
AGSF32FM: platinum spark plug (new/alternate #), $3.63, Qty 8 = $29.04
Shipping (you don't learn the cost until after checkout, which is like giving them carte blanche, but I took a chance) was $12, for a grand total of $98.68.

As to UPS.. The AutoNation box arrived with a nice round hole punched in the side right where.. you guessed it.. the heater tube nipple interface is. :redmad:
I checked my tube against images on the web and it seems about right, but it's entirely possible that it received a big enough hit to bend it a little -- it was a big enough hit to completely punch through the cardboard box at least! Unfortunately, there's no way to tell if it's going to fit perfectly with the existing manifold in place. The tube end doesn't look distorted and it seems to fit fine on the new nipple, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Fel-Pro PI manifold gasket kit ($30), injector o-rings ($10 for 16) and a 9-piece quick disconnect tool set ($17) are on the way from Amazon.
I also ordered the Dorman 703-270 hinge pin kits for both doors -- less than $6 per door from Amazon, only 2 left at the time of this writing.
Amazon prices are rounded off here.

I have new heater hose in my inventory and will likely find a brass inline coupler locally. If I don't have one in the garage somewhere, that should run me about 3-5 bucks. Alternatively, I could use the popular 90° fitting -- I have some plastic ones, but if memory serves I don't have it in brass.

I'm going to press my luck with swapping over my existing aluminum channel to the new intake.
As hinted at in the above parts order, I'm going to hold off on the new water pump for now. My original isn't giving me trouble and it's easily replaced later on, should I commit to keep the bird.

So, the total cost for my swap -- less possible brass coupler, less possible 3/8" NPT tap, less water pump, less coolant/flush, but including a new disconnect tool set -- is $345.68, give or take a few cents.
 

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it's all here

Ok, I finally have all the parts and tools. I also bought new hose clamp pliers, as that damn lower rad hose was killing my hands and I wasted lots of time struggling with it, and if/when I replace the heater hoses the firewall connections will be easier to deal with. The reason I removed the lower rad hose was to do a complete system back flush.

One quick question -- which I think may have been answered in one of those article threads but I don't have time atm to read through them all over again:
Should I let the gasket compound (I bought Ultra Black) cure with the manifold off (i.e., no pressure on it) or go ahead and mount the manifold (leaving the TB off)?
 

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Mount it wet, and torque it to specs, following the sequence drawing. (From the Center two to the outside corners, alternating sides, pretty much.)

Allow it to dry before filling with water.

The surfaces the rtv is applied to need to be clean and dry; nothing on it to act as a mold release. :)

Don't forget the two dabs of extra RTV that go on an NPI head, to fill the corners that almost go under the gasket.

Don't block the injector openings with RTV. :)

Be sure after everything Else is done to get all the water out of the spark plug holes. :) I've been having issues with Lazarus over this; #7 was full of crap. It's better now.

Also, if you are not absolutely positive that you did not get water into an open piston, take the plugs out, and turn it over with fuse 15 out. (it's under the hood) It's a pain, but easier than replacing a bent valve.
Turning the engine over 4 times by hand with the plugs still in is also acceptable; if you can bend a valve by hand, you deserve it. :)
 

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The surfaces the rtv is applied to need to be clean and dry
Will carb & choke cleaner do the trick? If that leaves a residue, I assume 91% iso alcohol would suffice. I use it all the time in electronics service, but admit to never having tried it on an aluminum head prior to using gasket compound. :D

Also, if you are not absolutely positive that you did not get water into an open piston...
Yeah, I've seen pics of bent rods due to hydrolock. Also saw the video of that MN-12 job where he knew (or at least suspected) he got water in the chambers but didn't blow it out -- nasty, sounded like a Tommy gun going off in his bay!
So long, engine. :wavey:

if you can bend a valve by hand, you deserve it. :)
Reminds me of the old Six Million Dollar Man ep where Col. Austin was torquing down lug nuts with his bare fingers. :ssalute:
 

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I used brake parts cleaner that doesn't leave a residue, and allowed it to completely dry before RTV was applied.

The first PI intake I did, I was about to try to start it when a friend reminded me; #8 must have been full of water. :)

Unless I know I got water in there, I turn them by hand, 4 times; if you feel resistance, take the plugs out.

Don't use the starter to clear the water; there's a lot of leverage, and a full cylinder will not empty gently. :)

It never hurts to take the plugs out and look at them, although you want the engine cold to pull them. There aren't a lot of threads there, and they're aluminum.

I use moly hi-temp anti-seize on the plugs. :)

I'd love to be able to tighten bolts to spec with my fingers. :)

Last week I put together a piece of equipment a couple of the mechanical Dr's were playing with all day, trying to get one bolt in. :)
They were going crazy trying to reach this bolt to put a nut on it, building stuff in the machine shop crazy, lol.
They showed me the problem, I took the nut between my index finger and middle finger, stuck my arm up to the end, and screwed the nut on with my fingertips.
They were blown away, lol.
That's something you only learn working on cars. :)
 

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Roger on clearing the water by hand first. I'll stick a post-it-note on my forehead if I have to just so I don't forget to do that after being inevitably angered at something the Ford engineers have done. That'll give the neighbors something to talk about -- err.. then again, I don't want to star in a viral video, so.. maybe just a string (or o-ring!) on my finger instead.

Plugs will be yanked, for sure. They'll be replaced with the new Motorcrafts I ordered with the other dealer parts for the PI swap.

Idle was stumbling again with the old Bosch platinums, so I pulled them to again rid them and the plug holes of coolant. I discovered 4 of them were showing no sign of a center electrode! I used a bit of 30 AWG wire to find the electrodes and they had eroded down about 1/8"! It's amazing the car would even run, let alone run smoothly after I cleaned the plugs/holes the first time. I'm surprised the spark managed that huge gap -- perhaps the full ceramic surround of the center electrode focused the spark as it exited (or entered, depending on whether you prefer conventional flow), whereas with an open center electrode it could have strayed? :zdunno:

Having seen those Bosch's, I bought a new set of cheap Autolite 764's to run until I do the intake swap, which will be soon. Then my Bird gets the proper OEM plug treatment.
 

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We have a waste spark system; you don't want to use anything but a double platinum plug.

Half will wear the tip, and as you found, half will wear the center electrode. :)

The side the electrons hits vaporizes, very slowly. Platinum lasts longer than anything else.

Copper plugs, cut and indexed, are for racecars, IMHO. They have to be dressed every ~10k, or they will miss.

Don't buy plugs with skinny center electrodes; at least, that side, anyway. :)

Isn't it the driver's side that kills the center electrodes? It's been a long time... :confused:
 

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We have a waste spark system; you don't want to use anything but a double platinum plug.
Half will wear the tip, and as you found, half will wear the center electrode.
The ground electrodes were just fine on all 8, and I could swear they were sold as double platinums -- but it's been a long time since I bought them, so...
They've since changed the centers to the open, trumpet style.

Anyhoo, the AGSF32FM's that are going in are double platinum, according to Ford. Yes, they're the fine wire type, but I elected to adhere to Ford's recommendations and go OEM this time around.

Isn't it the driver's side that kills the center electrodes? It's been a long time... :confused:
Unfortunately, I didn't examine mine closely until they were all out and I brought them inside to look at under the bench magnifier lamp.
I do know that the #7 and #8 were two which were eroded, because they had coolant on the threads and the others didn't (as per my other thread, those were the ones fouling and causing the misfire DTC).
I assumed at the time that the fouling issue had led to the erosion, until I saw the other 2 plugs (again, these were supposed to be double platinums, or so I thought).
It's possible (likely?) the other 2 bad ones were on the driver's side as well, but I can't confirm it.
 

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It's a known issue on these cars; maybe we need a sticky of known issues...

I'll do some searches this weekend, and start a thread with a list.

There are quite a few that have come up by now. :)

I started one. :)
 

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I ordered this valley tube: Ford part number xr3z-18b402-aa. The tube exits on the lh side of the engine. I'll have to run a hose over to this from my heater hose. I saw a tube on a 02 grand marquis that exited on the rh side. Thought I might be able to use the stock hoses if I went this route.

I just purchased this tube part number referenced above, pi alternator bracket, thermostat seal, water pump seal, and cobra water pump. All of this stuff was available through my motorcraft supplier, to my surprise. Unfortunately, had to go to the dealer to get the pi valley nipple (genuine ford parts.) I am installing this on my 97 gt since one of my heater hoses busted last weekend. Oh yeah got some poly mounts to reduce hose flexing too!

I think it would be helpful to post all the motorcraft numbers for these parts, including the different valley tubes and their differences, although im sure most people would want it to exit on the lh side to make it easier to keep the atc lockout switch. Next time around on the bird, I'll probably bypass it. I never use the auto function on the hvac controls. Just some things that came to mind while I read this thread.
 
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