TCCoA Forums banner

41 - 60 of 99 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,269 Posts
...
And no, there will be no red left on the car, and the Rolling Stones "Paint it Black" will be on the playlist for the first drive once the car is finished.
I personally think they look best in the OEM colors...



Nice Kitty. :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,133 Posts
Turning out really nicely. :thumbsup:

If you don't mind my asking, can you share which distributor you got the Tokicos from (I assume you found them new from a source that finally got supplies replenished)? Better shocks and a proper subframe overhaul has been on my list for a while now. Seeing this gives me motivation... :D
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Those have been sitting in my garage for probably about 5 years now! When I did the coil conversion on my MarkVIII, I ordered one complete set, I forget now who from. A few days later, one set was on my doorstep. The following day, another set was on my doorstep. initially I thought it would be nice to have a backup set, then once the distribution issues with tokico showed up, I was very glad to have them! I also have a used set of koni's I got off a car I parted out, but one of them is leaking. Supposedly they are rebuildable, but as I have no idea how to rebuild them or who can, I'll have to wait on those until I either come across another one, or I find someone who can rebuild them.
 

·
̇
Joined
·
3,702 Posts
Rayo, you find me one of those kits before this car is painted, and I'll put it on! I've always liked the way that kit looks. I remember when I was 19 years old, I saw a pearl white SC that had that kit, and while the install wasn't great and it had some cracks in the fiberglass, a bunch of sand scratches in the bodywork, and some dry spots in the clearcoat, it still looked great in person!

And no, there will be no red left on the car, and the Rolling Stones "Paint it Black" will be on the playlist for the first drive once the car is finished.
I knew you had a soft spot for those body kits..I was kind of curious if you found a donor car with the GFX kit on it..Guess not.. :(

Did you say you were putting rubber undercoating on the bottom of the car, or just painting it?






Rayo..
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
I've found exactly 3 cars with that kit on it over the years. One was the one I told you about, and it wasn't for sale. The second one actually may have been the same car, I don't know for sure. When I saw that first one it was pearl white with blue leather interior in kind of rough shape. The 2nd one I saw probably about 5 years later, not far from where the first one was, it was another pearl white 89SC 5-speed just like it, except the interior was now black and completely redone, and the body work looked good on it, so I don't know if someone bought that first one and re-did it, or if it was a completely different car. The 3rd and final one I saw was a V6N/A Cougar with that kit sitting at a used car lot, with about 150K miles on it, cracks in the fiberglass, interior not in great shape, and they wanted $6K for it, and that just wasn't happening. I offered them $1500, and at that price they weren't even interested in taking my phone number.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Just started reading this and it's a great read. I'm glad your saving the beast. Preserving the past.

I just started hanging around the forums so I'm a new guy here. And at 52 I'm twice a lot of posters age. I was thinking the other day what restoring a car in Ohio meant in the late seventies. No internet. No rust free souther parts. Zero reproduction parts. And Rust. Lots of it. No mig welders. Everything was done with stick welding or brazing.

When I was 12 and my best friend was 14 his dad left him buy a car. A 1967 Cornet 500. But not any Cornet. This one was a "Spring Sport" special with a 440 magnum a 727 and the buckets and console and set off the aluminum hub caps that were made by Motor Wheel that Ford also used on the 68 GT 500 Shelbys. We literally rode hundreds of miles on our bikes each summer to every junkyard with in 50 miles of Cleveland locating parts. And then on weekends his dad would drive us out to pick them up. The owner of the local bus barn he worked at painted it for a case of beer using some left over paint he had that matched. It came out great. It had some mud and glas in it since that's all we had back then but for a car that was restored by a couple of teenagers with no budget it came out great.it sure turned heads on his birthday well we finally got to drive it to school. After a year or so he sold the car for a nice profit and moved on to GTOs. The last GTOs taken several national events so I'd say the lessons we learned as teens have served us well ;) all of my experience has been with 60's muscle cars and some of the cooler 70s stuff.

I'm finding the MN12 a bit of a challenge compared to what I know. I'm learning. The forums great.


I've seen worst rust but your doing this right and I know it's going to come out great. Some times you have to do whatever it takes. It's a daunting task you've undertaken. But once the hard stuffs done the car will probably go together fairly easy.

Can't wait to read more.
 

·
Cougar Pilot
Joined
·
3,443 Posts
I just started hanging around the forums so I'm a new guy here. And at 52 I'm twice a lot of posters age. I was thinking the other day what restoring a car in Ohio meant in the late seventies.
Welcome! Great story.

Great thread too, I'll be subscribing. What you're doing is awesome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Welcome! Great story.

Great thread too, I'll be subscribing. What you're doing is awesome.
In some ways the Internet has made doing stuff like this easier. Searching out parts. Getting info and meeting people. In other ways between that and the muscle car craze of the nineties it's driven to cost of original parts through the roof. But there are good repop parts out there now. Ford really helped the quality quite a bit with their licensing program. It would be nice to see the MN12 finally recognized and the ford and mustang vender network show it some love.

I'm glad to see the how passionate everyone is about these cars. In some ways they are very much under the radar which is a shame because ford truly raised the bar from a engineering stand point when they designed them. And I'm glad to see that they are truly popular with a younger demographic that appreciates this. I know that makes me sound old ;) but it's great to see people keeping the flame arrive and burning.

I feel like rip van winkle.....my cars spent a number of years in storage and the one or two things I needed I just ran down to the dealer and ordered ;) I'm finding out now that just about everything's discontinued and there's no stock to be had.

I've seen some worse stuff restored but the OP is doing a great job on some pretty extensive repairs. Not for the faint of heart. And there's always a watershed point in these projects were one day you look at the car and all the truly difficult stuffs out of the way and you start bolting it all back together. And that's usually pretty rewarding.

I can't wait to see more progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Well mine's based on the 69 style stripe setup, the 70 is the one with the low lettering where the bumper cover would be.





I forgot you had the scoops though, it didn't occur to me those would interfere. I think copying the original striping is difficult on these cars since the MN12 side windows drop so low into the doors/quarters, especially with 70 style stripes that are placed at the beltline.

Maybe doing the solid stripe/hollow stripe 70 style stripe you could maybe use the bodyline as a split between the two stripes like this:



Other stripe that might work would be a Mach 1 style or GT/CS style laser stripe that fades out towards the back and have the Eliminator lettering within that. That would probably look neat with the scoops if you placed it mid body
I like the idea of the Eliminator script within the stripe itself. But I would place it on the rear quarter part of the stripe. Possibly echoing the strobe theme Mercury used for years with the tail lights. Make the stripe out of the reflective black tape. And lose the cat emblems on the C pillars. Putting the script mid car especially with the side scoops is going to break it up and look "Busy" best to keep the line flowing to the back. Although the fuel filler door might pose a challenge to that. Just my .02.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Thanks for the support! I haven't made much progress on this recently, been busy with other stuff and right now I'm waiting on some new rear subframe bushings and stainless steel strut rod sleeves to come in from Jay Richmond, then I can start putting the suspension back together. I cleaned and primed the front subframe, but I don't have any pics yet. That has to get painted, then the front suspension will go back together, and then I can put the front end back on the ground and drop the new motor in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
OMG nice to finally see pics of this car... Heard enough about it back at NTI... Looks good!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Great job Mike! Keep it goin'.

Yeah, that advice thing... don't think I'll be taking it either for my '92.

Nice to see NOS MN12 sheet metal! Was a lot more of it around 10 years ago, but so were rust-free straight Cougars and Birds then. Then it goes back to the sentimental value of keeping the same car you've owned for years...

Glad to see you making your dreams come true. Cheers!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Not much progress, I cleaned and repainted my subframes and front sway bar, but a big step today, the start of putting parts back on the car as opposed to taking them off!





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,633 Posts
Mike:
I see you skeletonized your front subframe. Was this for weight savings or to allow for some oil pan clearance?

Just out of curiosity, if it was the latter, why did you decide to NOT weld addt'l metal to box it in and give it more strength against twisting?
-g
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
That was for oil pan clearance. I did box in the area behind the motor mounts, and the front has the bar that connects the 2 sides together, so I think it should be just as strong as factory. I will also be adding bracing to go across the bottom of the subframe on each side from the LCA mount to the front strut rod mount, but I can't install that until after the steering rack is installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
The front and rear subframes look great! Are those the originals? If so, was there a lot of rust on them before?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
The front subframe is original to the car. The rear one I pulled out of a 97 MarkVIII that I parted out. There was some surface rust and peeling of the original powdercoat on both, but nothing structural. I cleaned both of them up, then used a wire brush on a grinder to strip them down, then primed, painted, and cleared them.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,476 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
We have front suspension!


Just waiting on some brake parts to arrive now, and the car will be able to roll once again!
 
41 - 60 of 99 Posts
Top