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Congrats!!

Looks good Mike, it's way better to put new stuff on than taking off old rusty off!

Nice work.

Is your body guy gonna paint it also or is someone else going to do that?

Keep us updated.




Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #62
No, those are Mustang front hubs, and I have in my basement a set of 99 Cobra rear hubs that I bought way back when they were still available! Keeping the 5x4.25" bolt pattern makes sense if you are keeping stock size brakes, but once you are looking to go with the Cobra brakes, as I am doing, it is actually substantially cheaper to do the hubswap, plus then replacement rotors are available at any parts store instead of having to special order them online or take the replacements to a machine shop to have the bolt pattern re-drilled.

As for the paint, yes I will have the same guy do it. I have seen his work, and it is top notch! He showed me a black van he repainted about 2 years prior, and the paint is so perfectly flat on this thing, it was like looking in a mirror!
 

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Discussion Starter #63
So not a whole lot of progress, but little steps. Front suspension is completely back together, including 13" Cobra brakes installed, and I was able to drop the nose on the ground. I also re-installed the heater box, and I got new rear wheel bearings and 99 Cobra rear hubs pressed into the rear spindles. Rear suspension rebuild is going to wait until I can get it on the lift though. At this point, I'm waiting on a firewall seal for the steering shaft and a new brake booster to come in, then I can finish bolting everything back to the firewall and re-install the dash.


 

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I love how this platform looks nekked with wide tires for some reason :tongue:
You know, it really does. :D

I run 225s on most of my cars, but 245s look Badass. :)

Looking Good, MadMikeyL!!
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Those are 245s, but they are only on there because they came with the wheels. Personally, I can't stand the way they look stretched out on the 18x9 wheels, and they will be getting replaced with 275s all around when the car actually gets on the road.
 

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Those are 245s, but they are only on there because they came with the wheels. Personally, I can't stand the way they look stretched out on the 18x9 wheels, and they will be getting replaced with 275s all around when the car actually gets on the road.
Great work and I love your idea! I also thought those 245's looked odd and I'm glad you are opting for 275's.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Minor updates, nothing major yet. My body guy has been kind of scarce due to being very busy at work, and he is also looking for a house, but he is supposed to be coming this Saturday to finish up the rust repair on the floorpan. Once that is done, I can paint the floor with bedliner to make sure I never have any rust there again, while also likely giving me some sound deadening and heat insulation. In the meantime, I have been doing little detail things. All the underhood wiring harnesses got pulled apart, trimmed of what I don't need, and re-taped. I got a new brake booster and master painted and installed. The battery tray, underhood fuse box, and washer and radiator reservoirs got cleaned up as best I could, and then I got the engine painted, and I am working on painting the headers right now.






 

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Discussion Starter #72
Headers are painted. They look pretty good now, we'll see how they hold up. I've never had much luck with the ultra high heat paints because you are supposed to bake them, and I don't have an oven large enough to, and I have never been able to accurately reproduce the heat cycles they want you to to bake them on the car. A buddy of mine suggested bar-b-q grille paint, and said he did his own headers silver that way, using basically an entire can on each header, and they are still silver almost a year later, so I figured I gave it a try. It says it holds up to 1200F, and doesn't require any special baking procedure. Honestly, I really don't care how they look since you can barely see them, I just don't want them rusting out. Anyone know how hot headers typically get?

 

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I'd say 500-700 degrees, depending on tune...

over 450; it's hot enough to burn oil.


A Faint red glow in the dark is about 700 degrees; If it's bright red in daylight, then the heads are melting, lol.

Nice headers!
 

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For sure over 500, I used engine paint on my 2V manifolds, which is about 500* rated IIRC and it burned 100% off just idling in the driveway.

I'm facing a similar dilemma with the MACs for my DOHC, I plan on painting them, and if it burns off I plan to just live with it and touch up periodically. One of the more wild ideas I've seen is "poor mans aluminized coating" using anti sieze and heat cycling to harden it.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187500

Not sure that's something I'd try though...
 

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Discussion Starter #75
That's an interesting theory, but I can't see first off how you would make sure the anti-seize gets to the backsides of the tubes, and secondly how would you even get the headers installed in our engine bay without the anti-seize getting wiped off onto your hands, the subframe, the engine block, the frame rail, the starter, and pretty much all of the things it is going to hit on the way in.
 

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We used the BBQ paint on both a set set of race headers and of all things a BBQ. Headers still looked great at the end of racing season. The Bar B Que looked good too. I remember it being more tempature tolerant than the so called engine paint but more prone to abrasion. But once the motors in the car your normally not popping the headers on and off. At least not in a MN12 ;)

My experience with header paint is that your going to have to pull them off every couple of years. Have them blasted and redo them. But that's on Ohio street cars. It's a fact of life here that headers rust. Most of the cars I've put headers on got either swap meet stuff I had blasted and re painted or budget stuff like cheapo Hedmans. Surface prep helps a lot. The Hedmans for my Ranchero went straight from Summit to the sand blasters. Then got wiped down with carb cleaner and prep sol before I painted them. I don't remember if I used Duplicolor Header paint or something like Cast Blast in black. They still looked pretty good 3 years later when I sold the ranchero to make room for a Fairlane. Cast Blast works well on prepped iron manifolds. At least on iron head cars. You'll torch off the paint on the exhaust ports before it will burn off the manifolds. My buds GTOs long branches still look good a decade later.

If I ever FIND headers for a MN12 with a Modular I'll worry about what to paint them with;) given what a pain installation looks like and the cost it probably one of the few times I'd actually spring for some type of coating.

This cars getting a built 400+'cube engine based off a Windsor as I recall. Assuming that the headers are nearly invisible like a Modular once it's in have you considered something like the ThermoTech Wrap? Might help with the underhood temps. Never a bad thing in a crowded engine bay.

Isn't anti seize mostly Zinc? The ingredient list on my antiseize succumbed to brake cleaner a decade ago.
 

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MadMikeyL said:
Headers are painted. They look pretty good now, we'll see how they hold up.
I think I've asked you this before, but what part number are the headers?

Also..Was the Steering Shaft Mod the only thing you needed to do to get those headers to fit?

They do look nice by the way.. :cool:

I'm waiting on a couple cans of the Eastwood Hi-Temp Internal Exhaust Coating to come in the mail..
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/C8WRUGl-3yk#t=25?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I've heard of people painting the outside of the headers with this stuff too..

Any exhaust component I install that is not stainless is getting a treatment of this stuff..





Rayo..
 

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I think I've asked you this before, but what part number are the headers?

Also..Was the Steering Shaft Mod the only thing you needed to do to get those headers to fit?

They do look nice by the way.. :cool:

I'm waiting on a couple cans of the Eastwood Hi-Temp Internal Exhaust Coating to come in the mail..
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/C8WRUGl-3yk#t=25?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I've heard of people painting the outside of the headers with this stuff too..

Any exhaust component I install that is not stainless is getting a treatment of this stuff..





Rayo..
That looks pretty cool. Also since your in Ohio you might want to know that Eastwoods opening a retail store here in Parma. It may already have opened. While it would be a bit of a drive for you if you really needed something right away and couldn't wait for shipping it would probably be worth the ride. Pretty much every thing I've ever bought form Eastwood worked as advertised.
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Rayo, I wish I knew what the headers were. When I put the 393 in the car years ago, I had been told that some fox body headers work after the steering shaft mod, and some don't, and I didn't want to be spending a bunch of money on headers that may not work, so what I did was I went on ebay and bought a used set of headers, which didn't work, so then I re-sold those and bought another set, which were even worse, then I re-sold those and bought these, which I was able to make work. The individual flanges leads me to believe they are a set of Mac headers, since I haven't found any other company that makes them that way, but then they have regular 3-bolt collector flanges, not the 2-bolt ball and socket style like every Mac header I have seen. Looking at the layout of the pipes, nearest I can tell is they might be an older version of the 351W swap fox body headers, but there are some differences, so I don't know if the current version of those headers would work the same or not. As far as what else I had to do to make them work, the driver's side cleared just fine after the steering shaft mod, but the passenger side required flattening about 4" of one of the tubes to make clearance for the shock tower, and dimpling a couple tubes for clearance around the starter and bell housing area, and then I had to pound some dents into the floor in a few areas. Also keep in mind my engine is lowered slightly, and moved back 1" from the stock location, so all my clearances are based on that. Moving the engine may help or hurt clearance in other areas.

97Catman, the headers are more visible than on a 4.6, but a good portion of them is hidden. I'm honestly not too concerned about how the headers look, I just don't want them rusting out on me, and for that reason, I'm not going to wrap the headers, since every time I have ever taken header wrap off, the metal underneath looks like swiss cheese.
 

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Why couldn't you use a propane torch to heat up the header by shooting the flame inside, and use that to cure the "hi-temp" paint?

An IR point-and-shoot thermometer and a few beers would make that pretty easy; but it's not really an indoor job. :)

Depending on how hot you go, it could relieve the welding stresses as well...
 
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