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Discussion Starter #81
That's an interesting idea. At this point, the headers are painted, and I now have 2 reports of this same paint holding up well, so I'm going to leave it alone and see how it does, but if it ends up flaking off, I might try that approach.
 

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That's an interesting idea. At this point, the headers are painted, and I now have 2 reports of this same paint holding up well, so I'm going to leave it alone and see how it does, but if it ends up flaking off, I might try that approach.
Even a good heat guns not going to hurt things. I suspect that the more you can heat these up before you fire the car up for the first times going to be beneficial.

If I had the room in my garage I'd curb scurve or find some old electric wall oven on Craigslist just for curing DIY powder coat and wrinkle paint. You can't fit a set of headers or a subframe in one but many smaller parts would fit. Or just wait till the wife goes shopping.......

Hanging the headers in a enclosed (and fire proof !) space and then aiming a propane or K1 torpedo heater into there and baking them might be a option. Build you own DIY Kiva ;)

If you have a local powder coater you may be able to sweet talk them into baking them for you.

But I suspect that any pre curing short of burning the paint off is going to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
The floor is completely patched now, and my car body is rust-free!
Right rear floor section went from this

to this


And the spot in the right front floor

now looks like this


Now to spray the floor and start putting the interior back into the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Been busy with work, and haven't had much time to mess with the car until today.


Hood clearance might be an issue
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Yes. As a matter of fact I have to raise the engine ever so slightly cause the oil pan is hitting the steering rack. The plan at this point is to put a washer between the top motor plates and the block, and hopefully that will give me the clearance I need on the bottom. I do have a Mach1 style hood for the car, so it isn't like I'm trying to fit this under a stock hood, but I honestly don't know if that hood will be high enough.
 

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Yeah, It would be nice if you could get away with using just the Mach 1 style hood..

Stock hood would be even cooler, but you need all that extra intake with the stroked out 351W you're stuffing under there.. :tongue:

Then again, If all else fails you could always use a cowl hood:


Did I tell you I hate hood pins.. :rolleyes:





Rayo..
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
Test fit the hood today, and it won't clear the intake. I'm not exactly sure by how much because I don't want to cut a hole in that hood just yet. I ordered a separate fiberglass scoop that is kind of like an SVO scoop, and before I cut a hole in this one, I'm going to see how that would look grafted onto the Mach1 hood. If it looks OK, then I'll glass that in for the added clearance, but if not, I'll order the cowl hood for it.

Oh, and as for the hood pins, I would much rather have pins than have my hood come up at the triple digit speeds this car will be traveling!
 

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Still going?

Hey Mike,
Whats up with your build?
Haven't seen anything in quite a while.
I'm looking for some inspiration to drag my tired ass out in the garage and try to accomplish something!!


Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Yeah, things got stalled for a while. Basically there was a little bit of rust repair left to do, and the awesomely talented affordable body man that I had found dropped off the face of the earth. He hasn't returned my calls or texts, the mutual friend of ours who referred him to me has not been able to get a hold of him, and apparently the guy has even had sparse and minimal contact with his own family. Not sure what his deal is, but as you will see from the pics below, I really haven't been able to do much until that part gets finished. In any event, the friend who referred him to me is actually who I had initially approached to do the work, but at the time he said that he didn't have the time to do it because he had just bought a house that needed quite a bit of work. Recently, the house is starting to come together, and then he blew an engine in his S10 pickup, so we arranged a barter deal where he will finish the needed body work and rust repair, and I will swap an engine in his truck for him. The last bit that was waiting to be done was the driver's side hinge pillar. There were a few small rust holes poking through around where the center fender bracket goes, so I decided to cut out a square and see what was back behind there.


Clearly not good! The stupid foam back there had absorbed moisture and rusted out the hinge pillar from the inside. All the rusty old metal had to go!


Now this left me with a problem. I had found the last new aprin assembly in the country, but try as I might, I could not track down a new hinge pillar, and obviously one off another car would first off likely get destroyed removing it, but also probably wouldn't be in any better shape, and fabricating that complex shape would be very difficult. As I looked around the shop pondering what to do, I saw my answer!

The old door from the car provides again! Since the shape of the hinge pillar in that area is designed to contour around the door when it closes, the bottom front of the door has the exact same shape.

It wouldn't cover the whole area I had to cut out though because beyond that point it gets into the area of the door under the door panel, so I cut another piece out of the skin to make the rest of the patch.


And the 2 pieces tacked together and mocked up in place.


At this point I stopped. My welding is adequate for re-attaching something that broke, or doing exhaust work, but for something that will need to be ground flat and where warping the metal is a concern, I don't trust myself to do a good enough job. Just this past weekend, my friend Chris, who was the one that referred Joe to me (Joe is the guy who did great work then disappeared), came over and assessed everything, ground down my not-so-pretty weld on the patch panel, and sprayed what he could see behind there with rust converter and weld-through primer. Within the next couple weeks, he will come finish up the hinge pillar repair, and then I can get a dashboard back in the car to make it at least steerable again. At that point, in my spare time I can re-do the rear suspension, spray bedliner on the whole undercarriage, get the transmission, wiring, and most of the interior re-installed, and take care of the fuel system and some other minor issues, and then that will only leave final body work and paint. Obviously at this point, the goal of being able to drive it this summer is not happening, but I'll keep plugging along, and hope to have the car done by the time next summer rolls around.
 

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Making the patch panel with the piece from the door is genius. I will definitely be remembering that trick. Very sweet.
 

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Another fine example of where our cars rust.. :rolleyes:

Keep it up Mikey, even if you don't finish this Summer..
:thumbsup:






Rayo..
 

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Are you going with an automatic in this car?
 

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Discussion Starter #95
What would give you that idea? I have a manual trans in everything I own, and this car will be no exception. The 5-speed conversion was done back when I put the 393 in the car.

There has been some minor progress made. The hinge pillar is now welded back in, smoothed out, and primed, but the guy doing it forgot to weld the lower fender bracket in place, so part of it will have to be ground back down to be able to weld that in. After that, we are going to hang the doors so we can bolt the hinges down in the right place, then pull the doors back off and paint the door jambs.



 

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After what I went thru on my Tbird, I'd put some 12awg speaker wire in the rubber piece Now, and run it to the trunk for later. :)

That looks So easy right now...

This is a great thread on how to do this right; I wish I could fabricate stuff like that. :)

That looks awesome; I can't wait to see the finished product.
 

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After what I went thru on my Tbird, I'd put some 12awg speaker wire in the rubber piece Now, and run it to the trunk for later. :)

That looks So easy right now...

This is a great thread on how to do this right; I wish I could fabricate stuff like that. :)

That looks awesome; I can't wait to see the finished product.
Yeah I'm not even a big stereo guy and I'd be mighty tempted to add those at this stage, better now than later.

x2 on the progress, any, even minor, is good in my book! I like seeing the incremental steps in these threads personally, bodywork at this level is a final frontier with me so it's cool to see the details.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Not much. The car is sitting in my garage. The guy who was doing the body work for me dropped off the face of the earth. A buddy of mine who used to be a painter said he would help, and he did a few things, but then just has never had time. I have been running my shop, and haven't had time to do anything with it, so it has sat. Eventually I'll probably wind up just dropping the car at a body shop to have the paint and body work completed, but I don't have the money for that right now, so the car has just been sitting.
 
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