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· Super Moderator
14,406 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This thread is for My 1996 Thunderbird, so I can keep track of things.
I've sold it, but my buddy will create an account if I ever get his computer fixed.
Replaced trans, 2002 GM Dirtydog TC, mark flexplate.
Replaced Diff, was grinding.
Added PST 3.5" aluminum DS
Totalled by gentle wreck; bent hood, rad support.
Horn was unplugged when the airbags blew.
Bought all parts and repaired airbag system. (Thanks to Spattered for parts!)

Repaired bumper cover, replaced hood, fixed hood latch.
Added 2 1/2" true dual exhaust.
No cats
AC compressor locked, pulled pressure switch conn loose to enable defrost.
Destroyed Trans direct clutch by 227.5mph upshift problem.
Rebuilt Trans, add superior kit, tuff plate, one piece seals.Raybestos blues in direct clutch.
2002 Pbr brakes installed , had to order banjo bolts. (order 2004 for other cars.)
Replaced mlps due to recurring trans downshift problem, was shifting to 2nd, which feels like neutral at 80.
Problem with water leakage; grommet at upper pass firewall had popped out and was leaking.Repaired.
Added 2002 mustang closed vane waterpump.
Removed POS alarm system, which was then shot multiple times with CETME, buried.
Replaced steering wheel, and airbag, and aluminum basket that holds them. That was source of horn being stuck on, the airbag bends the basket when it blows, which makes the horn blow.
Replaced cruise switches. (airbag blows these to hell.)

So, he backed out of the driveway yesterday, and saw a puddle of oil; it left a stream as he backed out.
An oil leak at the front of the engine is the wonderful oil filter adapter gasket; It's a POS that only seems to last a few years, then leak. I've only done 6 or 7 over the years,and it's a two hour job that sucks, but here are some tips:
Drain the oil and coolant. They are easier to dispose of unmixed.
Yank the oil filter, you need that room.
There are 4 10mm bolts that hold it down; you need a 10mm 1/4" socket with a short extension. One with a knurled section is a plus.
Yank the bolts, with a pan under the crossmember, there's a quart or so of oil in the block.
There is also coolant in there, iirc.
Clean the adapter and gasket surface on the engine.
Check for pitting; aluminum rust is white powder. It will be in the pits. I pick it out, and backfill any pits with ultra black rtv.
Going back in:
Do not just drive off without checking, there are several things that can make it leak. If you had to fill pits, give it overnight before you start it. Oil pressure will move any rtv out of the way, lol.
Good luck!

· Super Moderator
14,406 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My buddy and his roomie are replacing this today; The hose is completely stuck to the adapter, and is being a pain; Almost nothing in the car has been replaced, I was keeping it stock.

· Super Moderator
14,406 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tbird is repaired; gasket had failed at the oil supply port. Great example of how high our oil pressure is on startup, especially when cold. :)

· Super Moderator
14,406 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rod mentioned that he was amazed at the oil pressure at the heads; I've measured Lazarus a couple of years ago, at 300k miles, and it was over 120 at startup cold. Meter I had pegged; Didn't expect that.
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