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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
!996 Bird 4.6L : I have one of those intake manifolds with the aluminum crossover for the coolant - was replaced when the original equipment plastic manifold cracked. I was going to flush the cooling system but one of the bolts that holds the thermostat housing to the manifold broke. I'm reasonably certain the threads are gauled because it released several threads before the bolt broke.

Does anyone have any idea about how to remove and replace that stub of a bolt. I assume I'll have to remove the manifold.

The Ford dealer told me to replace the manifold.

It's going to be over 100 degrees here in Tennessee for the next two days, and I don't need this excrement now.
 

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drill, re tap
 

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I'm like 99% sure that the bolt you are referring to does not thread into the manifold, but all the way down into the cylinder head. I would remove the intake manifold and then try to remove the broken bolt. Try visegrips if there is enough sticking out to get a bite on, otherwise, get an easy out and do it that way. When you get the old bolt out, inspect the threads. At the very least, I would buy a tap and chase them. If the threads are galled up as you fear, you might have to either go to a bigger size, or put in a heli-coil. I'm not sure if it's proper procedure for the intake or not, but pretty much anytime I thread a steel bolt into aluminum, I use antiseize. Future removal becomes much easier.

-Rob
 

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happened to me too, easy out is the best solution, otherwise drill and helicoil
 

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I seem to have this thing with breaking the water necks in half, so don't feel bad!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I hope this thing only goes into the manifold, I'll have to check. I'm a little helpless right now because of the weather. I have to quit working here around 10:00 am because it is so hot all I can do is towel off and drink. Been over 100 degrees for the last two weeks.

This a long bolt and it broke where the threads start, not at the head of the bolt.

I have easy outs but the threads are so gauled that I don't think that will work. It'll break again. If this bolt doesn't go all the way into the block (I don't think it does), I'll remove the manifold and take it to a machine shop and hope they can drill it out from the bottom of the manifold.

Yeah, I use anti sieze, but a Ford dealer put this manifold on and I can see no evidence of anti sieze having been used.

It happened while trying to remove the thermostat housing. I was going to flush the system. That'll teach me to do maintenace.
 

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I never understood why Dan highly suggested replacing those bolts when I asked about prices and parts to do the PI intake swap.

Then I took one out, and while they are a little better in the brass inserts in the composite intake, in the aluminum they suck! They do only go into the intake, not to the heads. Sucks that they didn't use anti-sieze. This is the exact reason that it is used.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Has anyone ever used a product called "Kroil"? This stuff is a penetrating oil and is advertized to "creep" into spaces one millionth of an inch. Maybe it will help lubricate my broken bolt threads and allow me to get it out without breaking it off at the head of the engine. I don't want to have to drill this baby out.
 

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How weird, mine came out ok, oddly enough
 

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Has anyone ever used a product called "Kroil"? This stuff is a penetrating oil and is advertized to "creep" into spaces one millionth of an inch. Maybe it will help lubricate my broken bolt threads and allow me to get it out without breaking it off at the head of the engine. I don't want to have to drill this baby out.
Yes, I have had good luck with kroil. The shop at the place I work uses it as well.

-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, one of my bolts came out easily, also. The other broke after releasing for a couple of turns.

Thanks, Rob!!! I drove down and bought some "siliKroil" - Kroil with silicon. They recommended it for my broken bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay, folks, update. I bought a product called called SiliKroil available from Kano Labs. It is a penetrating oil with silicon added and is advertized to creep into an opening of one millionth of an inch. I kept working to get this stuff into the threads and slowly worked this peice of bolt out. It took four days of working off and on and I used a pipe wrench and vice grips, but it is out. I took it very slow and tried to rotate the piece very slowly so as not to break it again and then have to drill it out. I then retapped the threads into the head. Whew!

I hope this writing helps someone else with a similar problem, but most of all I wish no one has this problem.

Thanks for all your help!
 

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They do only go into the intake, not to the heads. Sucks that they didn't use anti-sieze. This is the exact reason that it is used.
The same thing happened to me. Can someone confirm that the bolt is threaded into the intake and not the head as stated above? I thought it went through the intake into the head but I haven't taken it apart yet.

Joe
 

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it goes into the head
 

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