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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, after reading at least 2 posts per day about clunking, I've made this sticky. I will list common things that "clunk" on the MN12 chassis here, and if you can think of any more not listed, add them on, and I'll consolidate the list. I hope this will help people out, and maybe cut down on repetitive posts.

1. Upper Ball Joints
2. Lower Ball Joints
3. Swaybar endlink bushings
4. Brake Calipers
5. strut rod bushings
6. Lower Control Arm shock mount bushing
7. Loose upper shock mount/subframe bolts
8. Tie Rods
9. Broken Spring
10. Loose lower shock mounting bolt
11. Steering Rack
 

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Good list.
But I have a concern. I don't know what some of those things are. I'm sure I'll eventually learn them, but with someone that doesn't yet know what all those parts are and where they're located, that could be a bit difficult.
 

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hey, do you mean Front AND rear sway bar endlink bushings?? when i step on gas, i hear a clunk..

changed tranny mount, IRS bushings, and U-joints.. turns out. my right side sway bar endlink bushing is BYE BYE..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, this is more gears toward front suspension. Rear is pretty easy to diagnose. I had a clunking in my rear end, and it was a loose lower shock bolt. Not loose enough to see it visually, but I just got tired of hearing the clunk, so I started tightening everything, and the rear shock was about 2 turns from being all the way tight.
 

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add Steering rack to the list.....i had a clunk and changed the whole front end:

Upper ball joint x 2
Lower ball joint x 2
Endlinks x 2
Sway Bar bushings x 2
Inner tie rod x 2
Outer Tie Rod x 2
Steering Rack (a1 cardone aka a1 crap)
Pads
Rotors
Strut rod to lower arm bushings
Strut rod to frame bushings
Vogtland Springs
Front Upper Spring Isolators x 2
Shocks


to chase it down (it needed to be done anyways) and it ended up being the rack and pinion. put a motorcraft in there and all is perfect now......
 

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I agree with Allen, somebody should make a diagram or take some pictures, so we can identify the suspension pieces.
 

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Did some searching.
Check out this site. It has a good diagram of a conventional suspension setup. I learned a dozen things from just this picture.
It also has a FWD setup on there too.
 

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Grasshopper said:
...Check out this site. It has a good diagram of a conventional suspension setup. I learned a dozen things from just this picture...
Great Post Grass! :thumbsup: and the parts list was cool too!
 

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I work in the service shop of a Ford delaership and my mentor and I chased a clunking in a 95 T-Bird, and it ended up being the rear shock bushing, we replaced the rear shocks and it was gone.
 

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awesome, thanks for the list. I've had clunking coming from my front end corners going through turns, while speeding up and/or (figure out up AND down out at the same time, I dare you :p) slowing down. I think either bushings, joints, etc. I've got a buddy who'll throw it up on a rack and look at it for me, hopefully he'll find out what's wrong. Again, thanks for a good sticky
 

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Addition to the clunk SOLUTIONs.

I could make it clunk by punching the brake when backing out. I could also hear it on weird driveway approaches.

First, to finally assess it.
I put a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 3/4" socket on the end and put it on a lug nut. Car is on the ground. I orient it so that I can move the bar laterally parallel to the ground to impart force at the hub. Position myself so I can watch the front strut arm bushing at the K member. Pull hard forward. OMG! Huge deflection. Pushed it rearward ,not much to see. Probably biased to the rear. This is on the driver's side.
Passenger side, barely any deflection at all. Looks like rubber compression more than a displacement.

I removed the front nut on the driver's side, it was tighter than ..... well it was tight.
Got it off and pulled off the sleeve.
Sleeve measures 2-5/8" long. 66mm.
Out comes the chop saw.
I removed 3/16" from the sleeve.
Reassembled, first I moved the rear nut up towards the front about 3/16" to compensate and keep from messing up the alignment too much, reinstalled the hardware and tighened it all up.
Put the car back down, tested again.

VOILA! It only move a bit, like the rubber is compressing.

Now, stabbing the brake, no clunk at all.
This also may explain a high speed vibe that I have tried to get rid of since getting the car. This may have allowed the driver's side front to shimmy since there was play in it.

Updates if I find out more.

UPDATE: Definite improvement on the high speed vibe issue. Also, the car is less prone to rut-steer. Noticed myself bracing the wheel against known ruts and car did not wander near as bad as before.

RichardM
 

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Found and Fixed my clunk, finally. It ended up being the LCA shock bushing, or lack there of. Ordered 2 new ones from RockAuto and Voila' clunk all gone. She rides Awesome now. Alignment is screwed up now, but someone else can fix that. I can do a u-turn without my hands on the wheel......weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee:rolleyes:
 

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well i came here to see if there was anything on upper control arms ... noticed about 2 hrs ago that both my front upper control arm joints are needing to be changed VERY soon. Can i press out the old ball joint and put in another or will i have to change entire upper control arms?
 

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ITT-BIRD said:
well i came here to see if there was anything on upper control arms ... noticed about 2 hrs ago that both my front upper control arm joints are needing to be changed VERY soon. Can i press out the old ball joint and put in another or will i have to change entire upper control arms?
Most people just get a new control arm assembly.
You should be able to find just the ball joints and press out the old & press in the new. Since you will have the upper control arm out anyway, you might as well replace the bushings. RockAuto has Moog upper control arm bushings for $18.65 a side.
RockAuto also has the Moog upper control arm assemblies for $56.79 each before the 5% discount, which comes with new ball joints & bushings.
 

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If you own a Mark VIII,

rear upper shock mounts(notorious failure)
trunk latch
trunk hinges
small wiring block behind L/R hinge(hits trunk hinge)
rear shock actuators(93-94 only)
 

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re: clunking front end: I added a lock washer to the backend of my left side ( the clunking side) strut bar, in front of that one pound nut. It stopped the clunking and the bushing squeaking on roller coaster roads, too.
 

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Mine makes rattling sounds on anything other than a perfecty smooth road surface. It steers, and tracks fine, the tire-wear is fine. i don't feel it through the wheel. I've had it on a lift, can't detect anything obvious. A drive-on lift so the suspension isn't extended, is the next try. No bad ball-joint boots, or obvious flattened bushings. Sway-bar links look ok. Even had a look at the trans crossmember isolators, All looks fine. But, something ain't. Any guesses?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Rattling Sucks!!!!!!!!

My last pita rattle was a brake caliper bushings. Brakes felt fine, they just rattled.
 

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Yeah, you can get UCAs w/ balljoint/bushing for the same price at your local O' Reilleys. They are lifetime warranty! If you want to see a pic PM me.
 

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What I like to do is strap my 2 year old under the front bumper as I am driving and let her tell me what is clunking. :eek:
Calm down, I'm kidding. Seriously though, I have had a rattle for 2 years now somewhere under my front end, not much, only when I am going over really bad road at slow speeds. I replaced the UCA's last year, and other than the rattle, my suspension is extremely good. I figure one of these days I will get my LCA's and sway bar plus the full front end poly bushing kit , just too much else on my plate right now.
 
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