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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have noticed 2 times over the past few weeks or so, a little puddle forming under the car. Looked like oil, felt like it too. I managed to get my digital camera under the car and got a few pics, this was the only one I have found where there is a leak in the pic.

Seal? Plug loose? Anyone have any idea?


 

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Tinfoil hat wearer
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Looks like the rear main seal. if you pay a shop to do it it will be pretty pricey. You gotta pull the tranny. If you skillful enough to do it yourself the seal itself is pretty cheap. if you do it yourself now would be a good time to upgrade the torque converter while you got the tranny out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
azreael344 said:
Looks like the rear main seal. if you pay a shop to do it it will be pretty pricey. You gotta pull the tranny. If you skillful enough to do it yourself the seal itself is pretty cheap. if you do it yourself now would be a good time to upgrade the torque converter while you got the tranny out.

OK, two things:

1. I am a mechanically inclined as Hellen Keller is with a Rubik's Cube, so that's out.
2: What exactly is a Torque Converter doing to do for me?:confused:
 

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Doesn't have to be the rear main seal, I hear of few of those leaking. Could be the pan gasket is shot.
 

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could be a few things, rear main, oil pan, seeping from the back corner of head. valve cover gasket. or leaky dipstick tube. the last sounds silly but its true!
 

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Im bored, and feel like I should help someone out by explaining in detail...

Your torque converter serves the same purpose as a clutch does in a manual trans car. It provides a means of smoothly equalizing the speed of the engine and transmission when moving, and allows the engine to run while the car is stationary.

Think of 2 fans, each facing the other. If you were to turn fan 1 on, the airflow from it would force fan 2 to turn also, with a small difference in speed between them. If you stuck your finger in fan 2, fan 1 would still try to turn it, but due to it's blades being stopped, fan 2 would not be able to turn until you removed your finger.

This is basically how your torque converter works, except instead of air being used to transmit power, transmission fluid is used instead. One fan, called the impeller, is connected to the engine. The other, called the turbine, is connected to the transmission. When the engine turns the impeller, transmission fluid is forced against the blades of the turbine, causing it to rotate. Since the impeller is connected to the transmission, if you have your brakes on, the transmission is locked and the turbine cannot rotate. The trans fluid simply flows around it. This is why you can stop at a red light and still have your engine running and your trans in gear. Once you release the brakes, the turbine is free to turn, and this enables the rest of the drivetrain to propel the car. Increasing engine speed increases impeller speed, which increases vehicle speed.

Not so hard, huh? I cut my old torque converter apart, if you want to see pics of the inside, <a href=http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=29957&highlight=TC>click here</a href>.

Not to hijack your thread...that wet spot on the side of the pan really looks like a leaky pan gasket. The airflow under the car would blow oil back on the bellhousing and everywhere else, generally when you have a leak on a vehicle, you find where it's wet and look up and forward of the wet area for the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the info..... now I need to find out what model and how much they run.

Any one care to guess?:confused:
 

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Full Metal
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i don't know pricewise, but that right there looks like it will peg out the PIA meter.
 

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my car looks the same way. me and my dad looked and the oil comes out of where the dipstick goes in the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hotbird said:
Not to hijack your thread...that wet spot on the side of the pan really looks like a leaky pan gasket. The airflow under the car would blow oil back on the bellhousing and everywhere else, generally when you have a leak on a vehicle, you find where it's wet and look up and forward of the wet area for the leak.

I am trying to learn as much about cars as I can. I usually tinker with my motorcycle, or my computer. Figured now is a good time as any to learn about cars. I appreciate all the help that has been given so far.:bowdown: :thumbsup:
 

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Same thing happened to mine it was a leaking pan gasket. So i took it out and put on a new one. Now it has four cams instead of two go figure.:zdunno:

Will
 

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Discussion Starter #14
mechman1984 said:
Same thing happened to mine it was a leaking pan gasket. So i took it out and put on a new one. Now it has four cams instead of two go figure.:zdunno:

Will

You do it yourself or have a shop do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sideoiler said:
He's just jivin' ya! Check his info DOHC. He did the whole engine. That's how he replaced it. Great fix, but lots of $$$ [/COLOR]

Great, wonder how much I am gonna have to pay for this one. :(
 

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Don't do anything until you have the pan gasket done. Or, at least try to tighten the bolts to the pan; this was an easy fix for a couple of my Ford cars, as they seem to work themselve loose over time. Also, as suggested above, check the area where the dipstick goes into the block. Rear seals do go, but I would believe the other two culprits are the root cause of your problem.
JMHO/ Sideoiler
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I appreciate all the advice that has been given already. :thumbsup:


Is the engine going to have to be lifted to get the oil pan out to replace the gasket? :2huh:
 

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i saw somewhere that somebody took out the k-member to do it, but i'm not sure on that one.....later'z.....:D
 

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I'm pretty sure the engine has to be hoisted up a few inches and that it isn't necessary to do the K-Member. A friend with a hoist should be able to help you do it. A good mechanic can probably do it in 3 or so hours, I'd think. Also, I don't know if it actually has a "gasket" or if the factory uses an RTV to seal the pan? I've encountered both on Fords, and it's usually the RTV that works the bolts loose faster than an actual "gasket". Anyone?
Again, JMHO/ Sideoiler

Edit: I should think a good mechanic would be able to ascertain where the leak is actually coming from prior to doing anything!
 
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