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Discussion Starter #1
Alright this saturday or sunday im putting in a new motorcraft starter on my 97 v8. what im asking is are there any specific tools or any secrets you guys can share that dont involve removing the exhuast/intake/valvecover or anything. what size bolts hold the starter in place and how do i go about removing the top 3rd bolt?

are they 10mm bolts? will i need a 3/8 drive or 1/4 drive universal or any extensions? the reason why i ask all this is because all my tools are at a relatives house/work and i cant get to them till 2 weeks from now. so im having a buddy come over with his tools but i dont want him to bring anything I wont need.
Does anything such as the exhuast need to be removed to drop the starter? i really need to find my haynes manual.

Thanx Guys.
 

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All you have to move out of the way is the intake tube (flat head screwdriver) and the air box. I don't recall if you have to remove the entire box or just the lid of it because when I did my starter I had a '99 GT airbox and the whole thing comes out in one piece.
After that you need a ten millimeter socket (I used 3/8 drive), two of those "wobble" extensions or one u-joint adapter, and enough 6 inch extensions to reach all the way to the front of the motor. You might need your friend to hold the socket on the top bolt while you get all the extensions in there but it will come out in mere minutes. It really isn't as hard as everyone makes it out to be. I found that it is so easy that I even put that top bolt back in, while everyone else says to leave it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so what would be your guestamate on how long it really was to reach it? i only have 3 6" extensions on me right now so i wanna know how many more i need to ask my friend to bring over. i also have a u-joint so that should be fine. i really miss my tools.

also the starter can be dropped without removing any of the exhuast system?

thanx for the help guys
 

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Yes, the starter can be dropped without removing the exhaust. You will have to turn it so that it is almost perpendicular to the ground and kinda "birth" it from underneath. :) If I remember correctly I needed 4 extensions, but it has been a while. . . . .I personally think it is easier if you have the facilities to put a jack under the tranny and drop the tranny k-member along with the exhaust from the manifolds. Please, don't try this unless you have someone there to help you get the k-member and exhaust back up! :D.

The starter bolts have 10 mm heads and you will also need a 1/2" or 13mm socket for the battery cable. Don't forget to disconnect the battery! If you are going to drop the k-member then you will need a 15mm deep for the exhaust nuts and a 16mm for the tranny mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
wether said:
Don't forget to disconnect the battery!
....duhhhhhhhhhhhhhh..........uhhhhhhhhh.......why should i disconnect the battery?



























lol im j/k

thanx for all the input guys
 

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Wow. Dropping the k-member is over-kill. Especially if you haven't had the exhaust loose from the manifolds in a while. They are a pain. Honestly, five minutes in and out with the extension method.
I don't remember how many extensions I used either. If you have three ask him to bring three... surely six will be enough. If he brings too many they aren't that heavy to haul around.
 

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tinman_72 said:
All you have to move out of the way is the intake tube (flat head screwdriver) and the air box. I don't recall if you have to remove the entire box or just the lid of it because when I did my starter I had a '99 GT airbox and the whole thing comes out in one piece.
After that you need a ten millimeter socket (I used 3/8 drive), two of those "wobble" extensions or one u-joint adapter, and enough 6 inch extensions to reach all the way to the front of the motor. You might need your friend to hold the socket on the top bolt while you get all the extensions in there but it will come out in mere minutes. It really isn't as hard as everyone makes it out to be. I found that it is so easy that I even put that top bolt back in, while everyone else says to leave it out.
Say what!? To take the starter out? I havent done this on a 97 but on my 95 there is no way that that is coming out through the top. I would just ubolt the front exhaust section and then its easy. Honestly only the top bolt is tough but its not that bad. Its a 10mm socket i believe although i found a box wrench to be the best way.

Will
 

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I think he means the airbox comes out the top for getting the ratchet in there.

If my memory serves, I cut a 10mm box wrench in half and used that for the top bolt and didn't take anything else loose. Didn't even think of using a ratchet and extentions, but now I know.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
mechman1984 said:
I havent done this on a 97 but on my 95 there is no way that that is coming out through the top.
Will
i dont think he was saying to take it out through the top, just get that bolt out coming form the top while the air-box and tube are removed.

and i have a box full of wrenches i dont use so i might cut a 10mm and try that too.

-Mike
 

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tinman_72 said:
All you have to move out of the way is the intake tube (flat head screwdriver) and the air box. I don't recall if you have to remove the entire box or just the lid of it because when I did my starter I had a '99 GT airbox and the whole thing comes out in one piece.
After that you need a ten millimeter socket (I used 3/8 drive), two of those "wobble" extensions or one u-joint adapter, and enough 6 inch extensions to reach all the way to the front of the motor. You might need your friend to hold the socket on the top bolt while you get all the extensions in there but it will come out in mere minutes. It really isn't as hard as everyone makes it out to be. I found that it is so easy that I even put that top bolt back in, while everyone else says to leave it out.
I dont remember taking out my airbox, but that may have helped. Otherwise tinmans directions are as good as ive seen. I got my top bolt back in too. Mine took about an hour, and i did it in the dark in an apartment complex with a flashlight. it is a tight fit, and you do have to squeeze it past the exhaust. But i dont see the need to start removing the exhaust and whatnot.
Good luck:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yea i just dont want it to be the oil filter. like its easy to undo the filter but hard to get it out. heheh its not a problem for me anymore tho
 

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Yeah, the starter definitely does not come out through the top.:rofl: Just take the tube (and maybe the airbox) out of the way so you have room to spin the ratchet. It is much easier than loosening the exhaust.
 

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I think you can also get at that top bolt straight on with a few extensions. If you go from the front of the k-member and route the extensions to one side of the motor mount, it should line up and come out pretty easy.
 

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Domesticbird said:
Alright one more question

What is the torque setting for the 10mm bolts?
Manual says 15-20 ft-lbs.

tinman_72 said:
Wow. Dropping the k-member is over-kill. Especially if you haven't had the exhaust loose from the manifolds in a while.
I guess it has a lot to do with where you live. My t-bird with over 300,000 miles on it has never given me a problem with the exhaust. . . .I always get the car "up" on jackstands/ramps spray the nuts with a little WD-40, go get a soda or something for about 15-30 minutes, come back with a 15mm deep socket and they come right off. Some people say that I am lucky with rusty bolts, though. :D
 

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wether said:
. . . .I always get the car "up" on jackstands/ramps spray the nuts with a little WD-40, go get a soda or something for about 15-30 minutes, come back with a 15mm deep socket and they come right off...
Yes, but while you are sitting around sipping your soda I could remove your starter and be waiting for you with it in hand. :tongue:
 

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wether said:
Yes, the starter can be dropped without removing the exhaust. You will have to turn it so that it is almost perpendicular to the ground and kinda "birth" it from underneath. :) If I remember correctly I needed 4 extensions, but it has been a while. . . . .I personally think it is easier if you have the facilities to put a jack under the tranny and drop the tranny k-member along with the exhaust from the manifolds. Please, don't try this unless you have someone there to help you get the k-member and exhaust back up! :D.

The starter bolts have 10 mm heads and you will also need a 1/2" or 13mm socket for the battery cable. Don't forget to disconnect the battery! If you are going to drop the k-member then you will need a 15mm deep for the exhaust nuts and a 16mm for the tranny mount.

I found out the hard way, it is a major PITA to reattach the exhaust crossmember, but it is possible if you have the upper body endurance for it! But no need, starter is easy to remove with exhaust in, once you get that top bolt out : \
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well i started workin on it today w/o my buddy to see how far i would go, and yea i didnt finish.

-lower bolt was easy to get off
-second lower bolt was tricky till you find the right path for the socket to seat
-the infamous 3rd top bolt is next to impossible to remove.

if i had the car on a lift it would be a lot easier but it doesnt start/run durrr. i only feel one bolt around the top side of the starter but its not a 10mm bolt, its a 13mm bolt and is directly above the bottom bolt. ive tried to look down through the intake/exhuast and can only see 1-2 posts of the starter solenoid thats it! i dont know how to get to the 3rd bolt and the haynes manual/shop manual dont show sqaut. just one sentence saying "remove top bolt". um where the hell is it?

the 2 lower bolts were facing the rear of the car and the 3rd top bolt seems to be facing the front of the car towards the engine. do i have it mixed up with a bellhousing bolt? other than that i cant feel squat and man o man i have having big hands. my *smaller* friend is coming with the u-joint and some more extensions tomorrow but i dunno i thought it would be possible to remove the 3rd bolt without a universal.

any tips or good reference pics from you guys?

if i dont get this running by sunday night off to my friends shop where we can work on it on a lift. yay for tow trucks and AAA
 
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