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Discussion Starter #1
What is the proper technique to disengage those goofy looking push-on plastic fastener that retain the system tray in the trunk that's under the package tray? There are similar fasteners that retain the enclosure just forward of the fuel pump inertia cut off switch.

Yup, fuel delivery problems: Wherever my fuel pump relay ends up being is what I'm trying to get to but I do NOT want to trash these fasteners in the process. Oabtw, I'm not soliciting ten different answers on where the relay might be. [;\]}

Thanks for any clues! :) MDW
 

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These?

https://www.amazon.com/Feadem-Nylon-Clips-Retainers-Retainer-Assortment/dp/B07RK14QVG/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=automotive+body+clip+push+in+holder+removal+tool&qid=1558472478&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

The fork looking tool is the remover; there are several different designs.

You can buy those on the Dorman rack at the parts store; take the pieces of the old one with you.

After 20 years, the odds of them coming out easily are not good.

There's even a fancy version:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LWS2H6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B072LWS2H6
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep, any of the ones shown in the bottom row of the Amazon graphic. I don't need more piece parts; the tool is available separately via Amazon Prime no less!! Plus, there is absolutely no way I can end up with too many tools when this dick dance is over.

Laughing out loud . . . "take the pieces of the old one with you..." OK, so I'm also thinking that after 30 years they're not gonna give up the ghost and be an easy mark. Regardless of the outcome, using the correct tool to get them out will be less ass pain. For those that come out in pieces there's always the tie-wrap re-installation approach. At this point IDGAS.

Thanks, Grog6 - you're a big help!

MDW
 

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Discussion Starter #5
... but I do know for a fact that the relays in the package tray are not fuel pump, they are the soft/hard relays for the suspension ARC system.
Thanks. That eliminates one of the two location choices in the trunk area. The remaining trunk location choice from other contributors of fuel pump relay location is "near the inertia switch".

To my rant, not directed at anyone...
Seriously, WTF does "near" mean? Visible? Not visible. I *know* what the bleeping relay looks like. Similar topic threads go on and on and on with no consensus answer. It amazes me that Ford could come up with so many different locations for the same component. And there are all the omniscient experts who, trying to be helpful, know the answers to everything. If I sound frustrated it's because I am. Thanks to those who are trying to help.

MDW
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's directly below the inertia switch, about 3-4 inches. (I do have the 89 EVTM handy :wink2: )
EVTM? - see pix below. I'm a literalist - I just had to be prodded a bit to look beyond my own shortcoming. :surprise:
It was not directly below the inertia switch but actually hiding a few inches forward and below; behind the panel held in place by "those goofy looking push-on plastic fasteners" which I summarily removed with a large flat screwdriver...

Now to substitute a "good" relay.

Thanks for the help. MDW
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Verified the fuel pump relay is good. Now to find out why the all but new Quantum 255lph pump recently put in the tank is not pumping. Onward, thru the fog!!
 

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If you can hear it running, odds are the little piece of hose popped off.

The one I did had a short section, and you have to use hose that is high pressure, AND can stay under fuel.

It's an expensive hose, iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
If you can hear it running, odds are the little piece of hose popped off.
snip/whack
The Quantum pump, when it was happy and working gave off a soft but unmistakable whine. You and some of the other more helpful folks were with me when my "When is a fuel pump really dead" thread was active.

Here's how this latest mazurka went down:
  1. Keyed up the vehicle; heard the pump do it's 2-3 second "prime." For grins I thought the rail might be happy with another prime. Recycled the key to off, then on. Oooops, I did not hear the prime cycle. Went to start anyway - no start. Gah. Went and checked the rail pressure - zilch. (That might be another problem itself.)
  2. Not hearing that prime cycle right after I did hear the prime cycle suggested something haywire upstream of the pump. I mean, new pumps don't take a crap and die in mere weeks after install, right?
  3. I then checked the 30A fuse in the engine compartment fuse box - OK. Went downstream from there and verified the fuel pump relay is functional - it is.
  4. So I'm at a point now where it will be easy for me to check if the pump is functional by pulling the bottom of the back seat; removing my tricky aerospace quality "inspection cover" then pulling the pump connector and applying 12V directly. No hum, the pump is really dead [again] and here we go again.
If the pump does function with the external 12V connected then .... OSOD

MDW
 
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