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Discussion Starter #261
Random little update.

I've been changing the oil at short intervals, like 2000 miles, and it's come out really dirty each time. Hopefully that means I'm starting to clean out that sludge in the bottom end.

I stuck the ported 70mm FRPP TB and plenum I bought from 618jerrys on ebay (Traveler had good things to say about his work) and am having a hard time adjusting to the throttle response now. :)

I'm still working on the tune, but it's getting closer as I focus on trouble areas. Fuel economy has been good overall, usually 20-21 in the city and mid 20s highway. Well, no worse than it was with the old setup. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #263 (Edited)
Sorry, I missed your reply somehow!

No, no power gain, although having all nice and shiny, freshly epoxy-clear-coated aluminum under the hood sure looks purdy. :) I'm at the point where I'm convinced the next restriction is the log exhaust manifolds. I'm biding my time to save up to get the front of the exhaust reworked so I can get headers installed... but this may be several years down the road. I gotta score a deal on mid-lengths or find someone selling some modded longtubes first.

I've still got a lot of little stuff that still needs to be sorted out in the tune for the time being anyways. Stuff like figuring out why it's missing during deceleration and how to get the converter lockup rates to be more consistent. That and little tweaks to spark here and there. I can probably get a few more ponies out of the tune once I finish sorting out the driveability stuff. Maybe I'll dyno it again after I "finish" tuning to see if I broke 260 and rev it out a little higher since I have the WOT 3-4 lockout in place now. One bit of consolation though is that after running the numbers from my pulls in May, the most conservative estimates place me at exactly 300 horsepower at the flywheel. :D

The list of things to do never gets shorter. One of my HID lamps is on the fritz and there's a new rattle coming from the trunk, so I gotta get that sorted out...
 

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I would add solid mounts and/or a chain; throttle response from the pi intake swap alone pulled my mounts apart. :) (Chuck's mounts rock...)

If the TB stuffs against the hood, you won't let off until you hit something, like a curb, hopefully. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #266
I've got new aftermarket mounts on there now. They're a little taller than stock, maybe 1/4" tops, and no issues with the TB or plenum rubbing against the hood blanket. In addition to everything else I've got way more driveline play than I think I should have. I know part of it is the CV joints in the halfshafts are worn, plus I think the driveshaft could use new U-joints.

Throttle response is good but not super good... I've got lots of work to do on transient fueling still. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #267
My turn to necropost. :cool:

Aside from needing to go through and update all those photo embeds, this thread brings back some memories! A handful of members we've lost for various reasons (I do wish Oscar was still around - and RIP to both Preston and Nick)...

In any case, there are a handful of things that have changed on the car since my last updates.

  1. The trans and converter from Alan are long gone! When I paid him for a "built 2004 GT transmission", that he insisted install it and the converter, in reality all he did was adjust my J-mod settings and spray-paint the old trans black prior to re-installation. The trans failed (lost reverse) 2 years ago, before its first fluid change, and I installed a true J-spec transmission from Darrin - assembled using the best parts from 2004, 2007, and 1997 (he was my first choice builder when this venture began, but had just had his shop broken into and was unavailable). At the same time, I also ditched Alan's converter in favor of a functional equivalent from Circle D, their 245mm single-plate core and 3C impeller for a stall of 3400-3600.
  2. I pretty well honed in the tune by the end of the 2017 driving season. I continued to need to pull quite a bit of spark at low RPM/load to control audible pinging, and I made several tweaks to EGR delivery. I was also able to dial in the MAF transfer function at the high end of the curve as a result of my taking the car to the test-n-tune sessions at Summit Motorsports Park a couple times towards the end of 2015. I also confirmed my shift points were were where they needed to be by using the acceleration data. Fuel economy remains relatively unchanged at 20-22 MPG city and 24ish highway.
  3. With the new trans and converter installed 20-ish months ago I was able to completely eliminate the random "shift slamming" that was occurring with the basically-stock trans and DD converter I had before. The car no longer randomly "slams" the 1-2 shift if I accelerate then abruptly let off the pedal before the shift.
  4. Last year I decided I had enough with paying a 30% (or more) price premium for 93 octane over 87, so I adapted my dialed-in 93 tune for 87 octane. There is some minor, intermittent missing that occurs at low TP/RPM due to the cam overlap causing inconsistent, uncommanded and undesired EGR. So yes - it is possible to run PI heads on the NPI block and rotating assembly with 87 pump gas (my having the fatter cam does help, though). I didn't make any changes to the program I had put together for this year's driving season to abate that, mainly because................
  5. I bought SCP's second-to-last set of Kooks midlength headers last year. Once I get these installed, I expect to easily pick up at least 20 RWHP and take advantage of the int/exh overlap in my cam (finally) - and with that, eliminate the unpredictable EGR at low throttle/RPM so I can put the final (?) finishing touches on my tune.
Right now the car is at the body shop getting some rocker panel rot addressed, which pretty much saps the "car fund" for this winter. Next year my hope is to get the headers installed. Once I do, new dyno numbers (hoping for that 270-280 figure finally - or more??) - and maybe I'll take it back to the strip to get a 100 MPH pass.

Stay tuned. :)
 

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Brandon, this is not a necropost, if it's your post. :)

Necropost is for some dweeb adding a non-needed addition to a post thread that died long ago.

Any post by the OP is Always on topic. :)

My addition is: If you're still getting dirty oil out, at reasonable intervals, on a good engine, adding Seafoam to the oil a week before a change will help clean the engine over time.

When I first got Lazarus, my Dad used Quaker State, and it was Fu*king nasty.

I switched to Castrol Syntec, and seafoam, and it WAS pristine; but in the last 100k miles it's dirtied up a bit; especially if I go over 3k miles between changes.
It's over 300k miles, so I don't see this as a problem, exactly; it shows me that my rings, valve stem seals, and overall engine leakage is at the upper end of the range.
I'm building a Teksid block for it, so it's not a problem.

If I were you, I'd add the Seafoam, add a catchcan on the PCV circuit, and call it good.
(You'd be amazed how much sh!t ends up in the catchcan.)
 
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