TCCoA Forums banner

21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
Thanks, Rayo. I did exactly as you said and everything worked perfectly. The alcohol cleaned the old wax from the roof drip molding, and did a super job of cleaning the door belt weather stripping before I applied the Back to Black. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Moulding

I just purchased another 97 LX. The first one is Pacific Green - this one is Dark Blue (haven't checked the code yet.

The trim is black but showing chrome underneath where the black is coming off. Was this another option or is there something different on this car?

It also has V8 badges on the front fenders which do not usually appear on 97's. I'm guessing the front fenders / front end has been replaced. The front bumper cover has obviously been repainted.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,994 Posts
The coating on the trim is just coming off, exposing the metal underneath. No special option on these. The V8 emblems were probably added by a previous owner.

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Thanks for the reply. I did find the factory part number on the left fender so I now know it is not a replacement. I need 2 doors and a right fender and found some in my local pick ur parts yard, but they are 94 or 95 models. I think the only difference is the 96-97 models have more holes for the wider body cladding. Am I correct? Can I use the earlier models and just drill additional holes for the cladding?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Drip rail help '97

I have a ’97 Bird 4.6, purchased new, driven daily, well-maintained and still loved. I am in Florida and have no garage or carport, so after 18 years of tropical sun I need to get it painted. The roof drip molding on both sides started to curl upward starting at door edge, it is stiff and will not go back down regardless of glue, silicone or epoxy. Pieces have curled back and broken off. I need to fix before painting.

Have the part numbers above (Thank you!) but of course they are long extinct. Due to age and composition of plastic it does not seem like a removable item from a parts yard.

Has anyone found a generic molding to cover the seam? Ebay is littered with chrome and fake carbon fiber strips, but they are thin adhesives made to go on top of existing moldings. The moldings are about 1/2 inch wide and fairly flat. Every aftermarket type I have found is larger.

Thanks
Barry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,910 Posts
I have a ’97 Bird 4.6, purchased new, driven daily, well-maintained and still loved. I am in Florida and have no garage or carport, so after 18 years of tropical sun I need to get it painted. The roof drip molding on both sides started to curl upward starting at door edge, it is stiff and will not go back down regardless of glue, silicone or epoxy. Pieces have curled back and broken off. I need to fix before painting.

Have the part numbers above (Thank you!) but of course they are long extinct. Due to age and composition of plastic it does not seem like a removable item from a parts yard.

Has anyone found a generic molding to cover the seam? Ebay is littered with chrome and fake carbon fiber strips, but they are thin adhesives made to go on top of existing moldings. The moldings are about 1/2 inch wide and fairly flat. Every aftermarket type I have found is larger.

Thanks
Barry
I think SuperCoupePerformance.com has the rear window moldings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Thanks for listing this out with the pictures, very helpful.

In regards to the back glass moulding (upper) and windshield moulding, is there a way to refurbish the rubber parts of them? My car has ratty mouldings (the windshield one feels rough and the back glass one is disintegrating, almost looks like shredded white fiberglass). I got a replacement back glass moulding off a junker but I don't think Back To Black will be enough (would be happy to be wrong about that). I was hoping there was an industry way of dealing with the rubber coating, sort of like re-chroming a bumper. If there is a shop or facility that I can ship them to so that they can be repaired, that would be ideal. I know what a long-shot that sounds like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,748 Posts
I think there were a few people on here that used vinyl wrap (flat/satin black?) on them with good results. I plan to do the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I think there were a few people on here that used vinyl wrap (flat/satin black?) on them with good results. I plan to do the same.
I was thinking more some sort of spray-on treatment or chemical or something to "revitalize" them. I just found a couple of them at a Pick-Your-Part that are better than what's on my car. Not great or like new, but noticeably better. I wonder if there is some sort of goo that can be applied to them so that they stay pliable, black and solid (don't disintegrate).
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top