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Discussion Starter #1
Well, to give everyone the readers digest version, last night I was coming home from my brothers house, going about 55mph, when the rpms started going up and down; went from approx 1650rpm all the way up to 3200, and sporadically went up and down. I took my foot off the gas, trans grabbed again and stayed at around 1650rpm or so, then did it a few more times before I got home (this happened about three miles away from my house). I nursed the car home, parked it, and checked the tranny fluid. Fluid is still pink but has an odd smell to it. I had the transmission fully flushed a little over a month ago. I did a pretty intensive search through the forums (God I love that search function) and found that it is more than likely a fried clutch in the trans. Now I'm down to the MR2, which is still in rough body shape due to being a work in progress. Haven't driven the MR2 in 15 months, so complete oil change is in order (I have however, started this car up every week and let it run for approx 20 minutes or so, enough to get up to operating temp and stay there for several minutes). Due to time constraints, right now I'm looking at purchasing a used / junkyard trans. Most prices I see vary from $200 to $400 and have varying degrees of mileage on them. I know I have to drop the gas tank, but does anyone have any other suggestions to make this as painless as possible? My car has 160,xxx miles on it; the motor was replaced and has approx. 75000 on it, but I'm going to assume that the trans is original. Torque converter seems ok; would you recommend that I replace it when the trans is out? Junkyard trans will have fluid flushed and filter replaced. I know that a lower mileage trans is preferable, but how many miles is too much for a used junkyard trans?
 

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Get a new TC it doesn't have to be something crazy either, maybe a marauder TC, replace the front and rear seals of the trans while your there. A J-mod. A rear main seal wouldnt hurt either since those like to leak. If you want to do any rearend work now is a good time to do it. If you don't have an aluminum driveshaft and want one you should do that as well, oh and a fuel pump. These are things I just did to my car when I had the trans out minus the J-mod.and fuel pump since I did mine last year. Honestly if you don't have the money to go crazy at least replace the trans seals I mentioned and the rear main, they are inexpensive seals will save you in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Get a new TC it doesn't have to be something crazy either, maybe a marauder TC, replace the front and rear seals of the trans while your there. A J-mod. A rear main seal wouldnt hurt either since those like to leak. If you want to do any rearend work now is a good time to do it. If you don't have an aluminum driveshaft and want one you should do that as well, oh and a fuel pump. These are things I just did to my car when I had the trans out minus the J-mod.and fuel pump since I did mine last year. Honestly if you don't have the money to go crazy at least replace the trans seals I mentioned and the rear main, they are inexpensive seals will save you in the long run.
I may actually get the rebuild kit for the trans, and since it is already going to be torn down, I should do the J-Mod as well. Luckily I have less than 1/4 tank of gas; was going to fill up yesterday but for the first time in a while, let the gas gauge go lower than 1/4.
 

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Either the tank or the diff, one has to be lowered or removed to get the driveshaft out of the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Either the tank or the diff, one has to be lowered or removed to get the driveshaft out of the trans.
My school of thought is that the gas tank is the lesser of the two evils. Gas tank doesn't look bad to drop from what I saw either.
 

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rofl, yeah right. You still have to unbolt the driveshaft. All you have to do is remove the 4 big nuts and let the diff swing on the axles. Then the drivesahft will slide back out of the transmission.
Removing the gas tank sucks. Hoses and lines like to break on old cars, connectors too.
Alan
 

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I probably should have specified in that post when I mentioned one needs to be dropped or removed I ment you either need to
1: drop/lower the differential carrier assembly from the car and let it hang on the axles.

Or

2: remove the gas tank, hoses, lines, straps, deal with that heavy awkward beast, I wouldn't drop a tank again unless I was changing the fuel pump at the same time.

Ex: My fuel pump burned out so I replaced it with a walbro 255 and upgraded/changed my driveshaft and u-joints at the same time.

Seriously depending on the mileage it's a toss up, I'd only drop the tank if you are changing the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the heads up dirtyd0g and Chris Murder; based on that information I will lower the diff. carrier assembly. Saved me a big headache.
 

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$400 and have varying degrees of mileage on them. I know I have to drop the gas tank, but does anyone have any other suggestions to make this as painless as possible? My car has 160,xxx miles on it; the motor was replaced and has approx. 75000 on it, but I'm going to assume that the trans is original. Torque converter seems ok; would you recommend that I replace it when the trans is out? Junkyard trans will have fluid flushed and filter replaced. I know that a lower mileage trans is preferable, but how many miles is too much for a used junkyard trans?
Spned $2K & do it right or beat your head against the wall at $200 - $400 a clip & end up with something worth absolutely ZERO.... MINUS the couple grand you wasted at $200 - 400 a clip like an IDIOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Spned $2K & do it right or beat your head against the wall at $200 - $400 a clip & end up with something worth absolutely ZERO.... MINUS the couple grand you wasted at $200 - 400 a clip like an IDIOT.
Not sure why you would feel the need to insult me based on my question; not everyone has $2k to spend on a shop redoing a trans. I have the resources, space, and time to put a used lower mileage trans in my car. I have 2 kids and a mortgage to pay. I don't know (or care) what your financial situation is, nor would I insult you for a question that you asked. Helping is one thing; responding with the type of tone in your post is another. I'd rather live within my means and do something to get the car running again.
 

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Spned $2K & do it right or beat your head against the wall at $200 - $400 a clip & end up with something worth absolutely ZERO.... MINUS the couple grand you wasted at $200 - 400 a clip like an IDIOT.
I have made these statements to people and gotten the similar response tons of time. Realistically it takes about $1500 minimum to get a worthwhile transmission but most people have to learn the hard way. Anymore it just seems easier to tell them how to do it right, watch them do it wrong and take bets on how many times they will continue to do it wrong before doing it right.

Low mileage used transmission, that is a joke these cars have not been built since 1997 you have to get a late transmission and tear it apart to make it work. Stock converters will always be crap and most people who install a transmission in one of these cars in their driveways make the car a pile of junk in the process.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have made these statements to people and gotten the similar response tons of time. Realistically it takes about $1500 minimum to get a worthwhile transmission but most people have to learn the hard way. Anymore it just seems easier to tell them how to do it right, watch them do it wrong and take bets on how many times they will continue to do it wrong before doing it right.

Low mileage used transmission, that is a joke these cars have not been built since 1997 you have to get a late transmission and tear it apart to make it work. Stock converters will always be crap and most people who install a transmission in one of these cars in their driveways make the car a pile of junk in the process.
Alan
Realistically I don't expect to install another used transmission and get another 160,000 miles out of it. Obviously spending the extra cash would net me something that would last a long time. I just need something to last me through to next spring. After that, when I can put the extra money (and I'm not pressed for time having my winter car; which happens to be the Thunderbird, down while I come up with $1500-$2000 to build a 100,000 mile trans) into a built trans, then I'll do it. Don't get me wrong, the advice is appreciated. The attitude he displayed is another story. I treat people the way I like to be treated, unless they give me reason not to. You don't have to agree with me; hell, you don't even have to like me......but I'm not going to let someone be an ass to me and play Ghandi. I appreciate knowledge but not ignorance towards people. My best friend of 18 years is going to help me with the swap (he is an ASE certified mechanic that has been wrenching on cars since the day I met him). I'm not an idiot and don't plan on tackling an automatic transmission for the first time, by myself. I've worked on manual transmissions before, automatics are a different animal. So if either of you think I'm an idiot, then so be it.
 

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Ok this is the internet you must have missed the introductory visit. Just because someone says somethign that is not what you want to hear does not mean they are making a personal remark towards you. Buck is actually trying to help and you are misunderstanding. I know him well enough to know what he is trying to say is.
"don't make the same mistake I did once, save your money and do it right it will cost less."

And I stick to my thoughts on low mileage used transmission. Here are what you can buy for these cars in this day and age.

Low mileage transmission from car that sat it's entire life, seals dry rotted, moisture and condensation probably damaging the frictions and sticking valves.

average mileage, works, probably the best thing, keep the fluid that was in it if possible the new fluid may be the death of it.

or the last, been rebuilt at least once by who knows who using who knows what, usually butchered by some aamco using frictions that made OEM early frictions look like great stuff, average life expectancy after rebuild 36,000 miles. (they want you back when the warranty runs out, ask me how I know)

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok this is the internet you must have missed the introductory visit. Just because someone says somethign that is not what you want to hear does not mean they are making a personal remark towards you. Buck is actually trying to help and you are misunderstanding. I know him well enough to know what he is trying to say is.
"don't make the same mistake I did once, save your money and do it right it will cost less."

And I stick to my thoughts on low mileage used transmission. Here are what you can buy for these cars in this day and age.

Low mileage transmission from car that sat it's entire life, seals dry rotted, moisture and condensation probably damaging the frictions and sticking valves.

average mileage, works, probably the best thing, keep the fluid that was in it if possible the new fluid may be the death of it.

or the last, been rebuilt at least once by who knows who using who knows what, usually butchered by some aamco using frictions that made OEM early frictions look like great stuff, average life expectancy after rebuild 36,000 miles. (they want you back when the warranty runs out, ask me how I know)

Alan
Alan,

If that was what Buck was trying to say, then I apologize for reacting the way that I did. Believe me, I know a junkyard trans is far from the best permanent fix, just need to get her back up and on the road until spring. If a boneyard trans lasts me until then, I'll be happy. I think I may have expedited the death of my current trans; I had it fully flushed approx. a month ago. In retrospect the old fluid was probably the only thing that kept the car soldiering on. In the spring I do want to have the transmission done the right way; right now I have to go the cheap route. I'd let it sit until I could do it the right way, but with summer coming to a close, the MR2 is a horrible car to drive in bad weather. Even with careful driving, the car is too light and handles horribly in the snow and rain. The bird actually handles great in the snow, and as much as I hate to drive either (or any car I give half a crap about) in snow / salt laden roads, the bird is the safest of the two. I guess the good thing is that since the Tbird is down, I can pull it in the garage and redo the rocker panels; every MN12 that I have seen has the same rust problem in that area, and I'd like to nip mine in the butt before it gets any worse. Thanks for the advice though. I don't mean to sound ungrateful and sincerely do appreciate all that everyone has contributed.
 

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Buck

& don't forget that I'm a GRUMPY old man & one of the bigger JERKS around here... especially after midnite on a weekend...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
& don't forget that I'm a GRUMPY old man & one of the bigger JERKS around here... especially after midnite on a weekend...
Lol, no worries Buck. Sorry for getting sand in my vagina about nothing. Thanks for the advice.
 

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WE want YOU to be happy... (like me) - Our old POS 4R70W's shift SO badly it;s truly like a new car once they shift sharply & ESPECIALLY if you have a proper DD TC with a teeny bit of Stall & a proper Tranny Cooler - I literally enjoy my car much more every single SHIFT - So if you are going to keep the car do it properly & trust me you'll be happy you did - If not then unload it & IMO go buy a 98 MK... but you'll still need DD even then.
 
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