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Discussion Starter #1
Had a couple questions for the experts here.

How do you know when you timing chain or timing chain tensioners are going bad. I get an annoying ticking sound at startup and under load when accelerating. From my experience it seems that a lifter would make noise all of the time. My thought was that under load and at start up the oil isnt priming the tensioners like it should and letting the chain slap around on the tensioner. Any thoughts?

Second question deals with my recent PI intake swap and idling. After the swap my car bounces every 5 seconds or so from abbout 600 rpm to around 1000 rpm. Two things that come to my mind is, I did do an EGR delete, and i have yet to get the ECU reprogrammed, could this be the cause of my idling issue? My second theory is I have a bad coolant temp sensor, I dont really have any reasoning behind this though.

Well any help whatsoever is much appreciated.

Brandon
 

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did you mess with the throttle stop screw when doing the PI intake install?....if not then you most likely have a vacuum leak (assuming your idle was fine prior to the swap)

get an oil pressure gauge so you can see the actual oil pressure....you probably have a bad lash adjuster.....when did the ticking start??........the tensioners have a ratcheting mechanism so if there is any slack to be taken up within the chain, it *does* get taken care of and the tensioners stay that way.....they don't "relax" back when you turn off the engine.....so it's either a bad lash adjuster or you simply have pinging/detonation, which is certainly not out of the question given the age of your engine that was built in 1995
 

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i had the same knock under load and thought the same thing, but i think it was the sound of your engine leaning out (dangerous), check your fuel pump and your fuel pressure. after i changed mine and installed a high volume 190 lph walbro pump that noise went away. if you buy a walbro pump and decide to get rid of that baffle you have to buy a piece of sumersible fuel hose, otherwise you gonna have fun pulling that fuel tank off and on a couple of times. the piece of... fuel hose that comes in the walbro kit will deteriorate and internally leak the fuel pressure back to the tank and will have problems building up pressure and starting the car. ford did a superb job designing the valve train is very stable and if i'm not mistaken 4.6 1995 tbird was equiped with the cast iron pieces, better than the late plastic pieces. still i would change those chains if your getting close to 150k miles.

to your rpm question check your AIC valve, you gonna have fun ordering this part, so here's a link that's gonna help you.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39

coolant sensor controls air/fuel ratio this sensor usally gets a hard coat residue that makes it read eratically (specially if you've pour that coolant seal or block sealer crap!)
 

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if you replace your AIC valve and still have idle issues you either have a short somewhere between your AIC valve and the CPU or your CPU needs to be reflashed like mine. need to take it to a ford dealer and have it done for around $100, not all dealers do it, so ask around. hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well for the idle I'm pretty certain that I do not have a vacuum leak, I've been over this countless times. I used the IAC off of the intake that I Puledout of the junkyard... going to put my old IAC on and see what happens. No check engine codes dealing with IAC popped up but I'll try it anyways.

As goes the knocking. If I pulled a plug and it is REALLY white could I come to the conclusion that I am not getting enough fuel. It started diong this about 6 months ago before the PI intake install.

Thanks
 

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if you have a vacuum leak, it might in the intake manifold gasket which is a pain to install. where mating surfaces must be extra clean and smooth.

that would explain that white stuff on your spark plugs, sound like light detonation due to a lean mixture, also if gasket is not sealing right, you might be leaking coolant into your combustion chambers when cooling system is @ operating temp. you also might see some smoke come out your exhaust. and if you are, what color is it? keep an eye on your coolant level!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I doubt its my intake manifold gaskets. I just replaced them and am pretty sure that I did a decent job with making sure the surfaces were clean.

I pulled a spark plug and found it to be actually looking like it was running a little rich, it wasn't white at all. I noticed that if I stand right behind the passenger fender and have someone hit the gas I can really hear the knocking. I'm going to put it up on ramps and get underneath it. Could it be a cat sounding like that?

Thanks for all the ideas!
 

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if you replace your AIC valve and still have idle issues you either have a short somewhere between your AIC valve and the CPU or your CPU needs to be reflashed like mine. need to take it to a ford dealer and have it done for around $100, not all dealers do it, so ask around. hope this helps!
Or you have a hundred other problems that can effect idle...

Reflashing the EEC to repair a problem is not a solution.

Here's where to start: Did it idle fine before you screwed with it? If the answer is yes, the it is a good bet that something was done wrong with what you screwed with.

You have to determine if the EEC is commanding the IAC to rev higher or not. Without knowing that you're just pissing in the wind. It is all about inputs and outputs. :thumbsup:

I vote vacuum leak. :thumbsup:
 

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use propane; it doesn't burn faster than you can move.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Figured out my idle problem.... my original IAC didnt have a nipple for a vacuum hose. When I put the IAC fom the Crown Vic on with the throttle body I got with it, I ran a vacuum hose from the intake tube. So today I replaced the vacuum tube with a plug on the IAC and it fixed my idle problems.

Figured out my knocking problem... looks like my passenger side catalytic converter is falling apart on the inside, I can pound on it with my hand and it rattles.
 

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What vacuum port are you talking about? :2huh:

The only thing going to the IAC is the electrical connector. The "nipple" is a vent and should have a black cap over it.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok.... lets start from the beginning.

I did a PI swap with an intake and throttle body off of an 02 Crown Vic. I decided to use the IAC off of the Vic, which looks lke the picture I posted above. I thought that since it had a air inlet nipple on it, that I would run a hose to my intake pipe. So ever since the swap I've had that hose running from my intake pipe to the IAC.

The solution to my problem was to remove that hose from the intake pipe to the IAC. The reasoning for this is that the original IAC, off of my 95 throttle body, did not have an air inlet nipple. All I did was put a 3/4" cap over the IAC on my car. And now it idles perfect.

Hope that helps. Basically I removed the hose, capped off both ends and it now idles fine.
 

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This doesn't sound right. I swear my 94 has that inlet on the IAC, and I know for a fact my 96 does. I'm also very sure that inlet is how it gets its air, and with it capped off, the IAC is unable to provide any air for the idle, which would make me think it wouldn't idle, unless it had a vacuum leak. Could be a line or hose, or it could be the (already mentioned) manifold gaskets, or it could be the plenum to manifold gasket, or the throttle body gasket. I'm betting your problem is somewhere vacuum related.
 
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