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Discussion Starter #1
I hear that its supposed to take about 8 hours to put on a new timing chain... can anyone tell me the easiest way of changing the timing chains?? Thanks
 

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Why is it that you only want to replace chains? You engine surely hasn't jumped time. My 167K mile chains were only slightly stretched...certainly wouldn't have torn down the engine just to replace them. If you have jumped time you will be doing more than just replacing chains. You will more than likely have piston and/or valve damage that will have to be repairs. Anyway...this is what's required for the chains....


4 Oil pan screws on front of pan need to be removed.
Valve covers need to be removed.
Alternator needs to be removed.
Power steering pump needs to be removed...pulley puller required to get to bolts.
Crank pully needs to be removed - puller required.
You may have to unbolt the AC compressor...can't remember for sure.
Belt tensioner needs to be removed.
Radiator needs to be removed.
Both Coil packs with brackets need to be removed.
Finally, you can then get to the timing chain cover.

After you get the cover off. you need to remove two stationary guides (1 each side)
and two tensioner guides (1) each side.

I was considering changing only my chains when I ordered parts to rebuild my engine, but finally decided that I should replace all components instead of just the chains. I suggest you do the same.

Complete timing set from newengineparts.com (mine was melling) is $306 plus shipping. Also, gaskets aren't cheap. You will need new valve cover gaskets and seals, timing chain cover seals, crank front seal (crank pully goes through chain cover), Power steering pump line seal.

Oh yeah....tons of patience.....

Hope this helps.....
 

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rustyul said:

4 Oil pan screws on front of pan need to be removed.
Valve covers need to be removed.
Alternator needs to be removed.
Power steering pump needs to be removed...pulley puller required to get to bolts.
Crank pully needs to be removed - puller required.
You may have to unbolt the AC compressor...can't remember for sure.
Belt tensioner needs to be removed.
Radiator needs to be removed.
Both Coil packs with brackets need to be removed.
Finally, you can then get to the timing chain cover.
Close, but..

1. You don't need a pulley puller to get the power steering pump out of the way.
2. You don't have to touch the A/C compressor.
3. Belt tensioner doesn't have to be removed, it can come off on the front cover but most people remove it anyways.
4. Radiator doesn't need to be removed, but removing the fan helps.
 

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ilusnforc said:
I hear that its supposed to take about 8 hours to put on a new timing chain... can anyone tell me the easiest way of changing the timing chains?? Thanks
Have either of the above responses taken into account that the originator of the post has a V6?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
wow.. you guys are good...
I didn't say this was my car... A friend of mine is a mechanic and a customer he does work for has a '96 LX 4.6 V8. She called him about 3 weeks ago saying that her car was overheating.. he diagnosed that the thermostat was stuck or something like that and needed to be replaced (he had replaced it for her a year ago). Well, long story short, she didnt want to pay the money so she said it runs fine and dont worry about it, she calls him today and the car will not start. Apparantly she overheated those aluminum heads, and his diagnosis now is that there is a problem with the timing chain and more than likely the valves/pistons may have problems also. She bought the car just over 2 years ago and still owes $10,000 on it, so she is going to have it repo'd.

Any suggestions on the situation?? Thanks for all the help. (I dont know much about the V8's, as I own a '95 5-speed SC, '92 and '94 LX V6, and my moms '97 Cougar XR7 V6 30th anny.)
 

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NRL...

There is one bolt into the block that you can't get to unless you remove the power steering pulley...at least on my 95 Cougar. I would assume that most (if not all) 4.6's are the same way.

I did say I wasn't sure about the AC compressor.

It's only 2 bolts to remove the radiator versus more than that for the fan.

You are right...you don't have to remove the tensioner, but I don't see any reason not to.

Just for the record.....:)
 

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I am right in the middle of a head gasket replacement job. The A/C does not need to be removed unless you want to change the CKP. However, in my case I rounded the aft lower bolt and wont be able to remove the compressor. The fan had only two bolts and two clips. Getting the power stering pump lose was a pain. Did someone say patience??? I have over 8 hours on it now and I have finaly got the head bolts.
 

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rustyul said:
NRL...

There is one bolt into the block that you can't get to unless you remove the power steering pulley...at least on my 95 Cougar. I would assume that most (if not all) 4.6's are the same way.

I did say I wasn't sure about the AC compressor.

It's only 2 bolts to remove the radiator versus more than that for the fan.

You are right...you don't have to remove the tensioner, but I don't see any reason not to.

Just for the record.....:)
Hmmm...

I'm wondering what bolt is obstructed by the pulley. You have to remove the pump from the front cover anyway, so why remove the pulley and then the 4 bolts for the pump?

If you only remove the fan, then you don't have to drain the radiator (if you don't need to) plus, you have to remove the trans cooler lines from it and those can be a major PITA.

The reason not to remove the tensioner is - it's extra unnecessary work!
 

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rustyul said:
NRL...

There is one bolt into the block that you can't get to unless you remove the power steering pulley...at least on my 95 Cougar. I would assume that most (if not all) 4.6's are the same way.

I did say I wasn't sure about the AC compressor.

It's only 2 bolts to remove the radiator versus more than that for the fan.

You are right...you don't have to remove the tensioner, but I don't see any reason not to.

Just for the record.....:)
No, you have to remove the power steering pump to get the front cover off period, so just set the pump off to the side and the pulley is out of your way and still on the pump.
 

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OK guys...I'm not a 4.6 guru or an engine genius, but I'm a tool designer by trade so I'm not a mechanical idiot. Honestly, I couldn't get to one of the timing cover bolts without removing the PS pump pulley. Technically, I guess I didn't have to remove the PS Pump, but it would have been just one more thing to snag the cover on if left attached. I removed it because I'm replacing mine.

I'm sticking to my guns about the pulley! :D
 
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