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I have two front tires, one is brand new 10/32 tread depth, and the other is older and has 9/32 tread depth. My question is; would this have any effect on handling in any way?
I usually would never have one new and one older tire across from one another, but it was a road hazzard warranty thing and I would rather not buy another tire if I dont have to, and they are pretty close.
Ideas?

Thanks
 

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If the older tire is real old, or starting to dry-rot or crack (which if they are still under warranty is very doubtful!) then I'd say change both, but you should be fine.
 

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I have two front tires, one is brand new 10/32 tread depth, and the other is older and has 9/32 tread depth. My question is; would this have any effect on handling in any way?
I usually would never have one new and one older tire across from one another, but it was a road hazzard warranty thing and I would rather not buy another tire if I dont have to, and they are pretty close.
Ideas?

Thanks
Nothing you, nor I, nor any other earth bound mortal is likely to be able to feel.

I have had many instances of a puncture on one tire of my issued police cars over the years, and have usually had a new tire on the spare and stuck it on and unless the one tire is like 3 or 4/32s and the spare is new .... it's not something that is a problem, even at high speeds.

I usually order two tires if a large discrepency, always plug the puncture and use it as a temp spare until my new ones come in, then put a new one on the new spare rim, clean it and put in trunk, and put other new tire on other old front tire, and put the near worn out one in the heap as it's at 3/32s we replace anyway.

If the tires were within a couple /32s, I just order one new one to put back in as new spare.

When only putting two tires on, I always put the newest ones on front unless the other two on the car are very nearly new also. Just easier to chase new treads at 130 with them up front where I'm steering, than have them move about out back and me chasing them in a curve. New, tall treads do that.
 

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When only putting two tires on, I always put the newest ones on front unless the other two on the car are very nearly new also. Just easier to chase new treads at 130 with them up front where I'm steering, than have them move about out back and me chasing them in a curve. New, tall treads do that.
Just to clarify, regardless of the location of the drive tires, be it a FWD or RWD vehicle, the newest tires should always be installed on the rear. Also, wider tires and tires with the higher speed rating should always be installed on the rear. This prevents oversteer, or fishtailing. The bottom line is, new tires on the front will encourage understeer(which is much easier to correct), while new tires on the rear encourage oversteer(not so easy to correct).

I travel this road with several customers everyday, and 99/100 trust me with their safety in mind. For the 1/100 that will still not buy into it, i mention that...

The Tire Rack recommends new tires on the rear

Discount Tire Co(me) recommends new tires on the rear

Michelin has a video that shows why new tires are recommended on the rear

Goodyear recommends new tires on the rear

And if they still do not believe me, the two biggest tire retailers in the country and the two largest tire manufacturers in the country, then I inform them that Michelin just lost a $32.4M lawsuit because two new tires were installed on the front of a vehicle

Of course, if someone still insists(yes it happens!) after all the facts are presented to them, we will put new tires on the front after they sign a release.
 

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PowderBoy, reread your post and fix the mistakes plzs (typos that contradict themselves)...

On another note,
Michelin and other companies will require you to change tires in sets of 4 soon if lawsuits keep going like that, lol... :rolleyes:
 

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PowderBoy, reread your post and fix the mistakes plzs (typos that contradict themselves)...

On another note,
Michelin and other companies will require you to change tires in sets of 4 soon if lawsuits keep going like that, lol... :rolleyes:

I edited my mistakes, not to be confused with typos. And from now on, if you feel the need to correct me, please(not to be confused with plzs) use proper English rather than AOL speak.

I hear there is no charge for vowels.
 

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...The bottom line is, new tires on the front will encourage understeer(which is much easier to correct), while new tires on the front encourage oversteer(not so easy to correct)...
It's still wrong... Looks like a typo to me thxs... ;)
 

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I edited my mistakes, not to be confused with typos. And from now on, if you feel the need to correct me, please(not to be confused with plzs) use proper English rather than AOL speak.

I hear there is no charge for vowels.
plz correct your mistakes rather then editing them. thxs ;)
 

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The point I was trying to make before the english lesson was that he said:
"new tires on the front will encourage understeer"
and in the same sentence:
"new tires on the front encourage oversteer"

So which is it? That is the mistake (typo) he needed to correct.
I don't care if he can spell worth beans, or what kind of english he uses, or if he even posts it in Japanese, but get the facts right first at least before teaching me english, when he can't even read it and find his own mistakes...
 

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Just to clarify, regardless of the location of the drive tires, be it a FWD or RWD vehicle, the newest tires should always be installed on the rear.

The bottom line is, new tires on the front will encourage understeer(which is much easier to correct), while new tires on the rear encourage oversteer(not so easy to correct).
So we are supposed to put new tires on the rear because it will cause a condition that is harder to correct? I think you have the second half of what I quoted backwards..
 

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Here's something I think we can discuss: If you put new tires on the front, will it not greatly decrease your chance of hydroplaning? It is just that I drive in the rain a whole lot more than I get into a situation where I'm understeering or oversteering.

I've driven with bald front tires and new rear tires and vise versa..... I always end up putting the new ones on the front and just not driving like a fool. (Keep in mind this is daily driving, NOT performance driving). :D

And remember: Oversteer is when the passenger is terrified… Understeer is when the driver is terrified. :thumbsup:
 

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I think it is fair to say that putting new tires on the rear is much like helmet laws for motorcyclists, it protects people from themselves! You can have four bald tires on your car, and if you drive the appropriate speed, you should be ok. Likewise, you can have four new tires and drive like an idiot and not be ok. If people keep their tires rotated properly, and aired up properly, the tread depth difference between the two should be negligible, and not make a difference.

Unfortunately, this will never happen with every driver on the road, be it from apathy or ignorance, a lot of drivers will always neglect their tires. And because those people will always be on the road, we will continue to recommend that new tires be put on the rear.

I also believe that sometime in the near future, there will be places that only replace tires in sets of four. Take WalMart, for example, the will do no plus fitments! If you have 205/75R15 as OE, they will not put on 235/70R15, even though it is a common and safe plus zero fitment for a lot of vehicles. They will also refuse to put on tires that do not meet the factory speed rating. Again, both precautions protecting people from themselves, and protecting their company against litigation.
 

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Many tire chains won't mount anything other then what the car came with size wise. No surprise there that's been going on for years. They also loose all business that comes from it.

Any chains who decide they will only sell tires in sets of 4, more power to them but their going to loose alot of business too. If these tire chains really want to reduce liability they should stop doing alignments. 90% of them don't seem to have a clue how to do it correctly.
 

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Isn't that the truth! One of our competitors here offers free alignment with any four tire purchase. What they don;t tell you is that you probably do not need an alignment, and if you do, it is most likely that you need other front end work done, in which case, you have to pay them for that, oh and now the alignment is no longer free.

Fortunately, most of our competitors around the country fail to see the long term benefits to a short term concession that makes no profit. A free flat repair or rotation, or even a replacing a tire for free that has been ruined from a vehicle being misaligned can have extremely profitable long term benefits.
 

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PowderBoyDTC said:
The bottom line is, new tires on the front will encourage understeer(which is much easier to correct), while new tires on the rear encourage oversteer(not so easy to correct).
Correct. What I said I thought when I said
CrystalPistol said:
When only putting two tires on, I always put the newest ones on front unless the other two on the car are very nearly new also. Just easier to chase new treads at 130 with them up front where I'm steering, than have them move about out back and me chasing them in a curve. New, tall treads do that.
To expand ....
Tire shops, distributors, retailers, etc .... deal with customers who buy tires for their private autos and presumably drive lawful speed limits. When buying only two tires, of equal size, it makes sense to put the newest tires on the rear in such cases as their biggest threat to life and limb is a flat on the rear causing sudden and drastic oversteer, or hydroplaning due to less tread depth also leading to sudden and drastic oversteer in a heavy rain, or a casing failure due to just plain "OLD" rotted tires that are 12 years old maybe on this "Sunday Driver" also leading to sudden and drastic oversteer which will happen when that sidewall fails. Putting the newest tires on the rear minimizes the risk of either, it's much easier for a driver to handle a sudden case of understeer when it's the front tire that has the flat or suddenly slips in rain or blows out from failure. May still wreck, but chances are better that way ... when it's a steer tire that fails or slips.

I was not talking about putting tires two at a time on a car used thusly. It's a police car operated by a trooper on back roads and interstate alike, some times at high speeds. I know by looking at my tires every day I work which are worn most, I check the pressures, and when it's raining I keep in mind what the trires are like because I looked at them that day too. I adjust my driving to the weather and my equipment.

I also know from 30 years experience as a trooper that most flats happen on the rear as often the nail or screw was lying on the road when the front tire rolled over it and kicked it up and the rear tire caught it in the tread. There was that night in 1979 up on I-95 when I ran through "53 kajillion" 16 penny nails dropped by a truck in the rain and I picked up 6 nails in the left rear and 5 in the right rear and NONE in the front tires. Looked like freeking pine needles on that wet interstate. Took the DOT hours to clear as I stood ouit there in the rain with flares routing traffic around using exit and on ramps. The Firestone tires I had didn't go flat, but they were low when I got to the shop, all 4 were new which means a 16 penny nail knows no difference. I put two more new ones on in their place.

Running two 235/55-17 Goodyear RS-As with 4 or 6/32 on the front and two brand new 235/55-17 Goodyear RS-As with 10/32 on the rear, all 4 at 44 PSI cold, at 100+ whether in a quick lane change on the big road or when I pitch it into that next curve on this two lane road is a good way to find my arse leading with some drastic OVERSTEER.

No, when that "officer needs assistanc now" or other bona fide emergency call comes my way, or if I just turned on one running wild .... then I want the two new 235/55-17 Goodyear RS-As with 10/32 up front, and them two 235/55-17 Goodyear RS-As with 4 or 6/32 on the rear end where they'll squirm around less than those new ones.

We replace tires when they reach 3/32, have to watch those dollars you know. On my personal cars, cars that the wife drives, etc .... I shop for tires generally at 4/32 and keep them rotated and evenly wearing, and I don't have a problem with a plug/patch like I use, have never had one fail in near 40 years driving. I just do not like to use them on the police car unless I absolutely have too and then I'll use a plugged tire for a a speare just until I can get a new tire.



Please pardon any mispellings.
 
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