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Discussion Starter #1
OK so this is my 3rd set of tires that are wearing out the inside edges of the tires. I have had it aligned, front end is mostly new save for the springs, struts. The stock tires for my car are 215 70R15. I have 225 60R15 on it to reduce gear ratio and increase steering response.
Someone here said the front hubs might be bad but the shop says they'd find that if there was play in the wheel when tested. Does anyone have any ideas on this?? Would like to stop having to re mount front tires on oppsite sides to get more wear from them. Really I don't rotate like most people do. I just re mount the front left tire on the on the right rim and vice versa for the right tire. That keeps them rolling in the same direction and puts the worn edge to the outside so I can get more wear from the tire.
Any help is appreciated
 

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My rack and pinion in the SC has about a 1/4inch of play both sides and was causing my tires to wear out in the center. Thats why its getting replaced right now, along with a bunch of other things.
 

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You need a good alignment shop; that's usually the camber or toe adjustment misadjusted.

Bad shocks Can cause this, but usually the edge is 'fluted', where the tire is bouncing up and down.

If every other 'knob' on the tire is worn, that's a bad shock.

A smooth inner edge is misalignment.

I'd take it somewhere else, and see what they say.

I've never had that problem, even on Lazarus, and its frame is bent but the tires still wear correct; a Good alignment shop can make up for more than I would have thought possible.

A cheap set of monroe shocks are ~$100; I'd do that if you aren't going to spend more on them.
They'll last a couple of years anyway.
 
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Agreed.

Take it to a DIFFERENT shop and have the alignment checked.
 
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BTW, any alignment shop that ever tells you "There is no adjustment for X on you mn12" is a flake; DO NOT let them work on your car.

Everything is adjustable on our cars, on all 4 wheels. :)
 

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BTW, any alignment shop that ever tells you "There is no adjustment for X on you mn12" is a flake; DO NOT let them work on your car.

Everything is adjustable on our cars, on all 4 wheels. :)
It's a bit hard to adjust the caster on the back ...

RwP
 
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It's a bit hard to adjust the caster on the back ...

RwP
OK, I'll give you that.

BUT: I adjusted the Caster in the rear of Lazarus when I went poly, by using washers in the front/rear of the pivots. (there's a gap to fill)

It's only ~1/4" or so, but I did adjust it from stock. :)

But I've never seen Caster adjustable in the rear, or the front of most cars; it's usually fixed, or varies around a point.

Ours varies due to the flex in the IRS bushings too.

In the front, the strut rod controls this.

When the lca's have two pivots, it's kinda hard to do, imho.



My old subaru was continually variable, as are my motorcycles, depending on travel, lol.

You have toe and camber easily adjustable in the rear, and the front has everything adjustable.


I had a twit tell me there was no camber adj on my Cougar, because it didn't have a kit like the mustang on top of the tower.

I had to add one for the Koni's on the Contour, or the suspension would have been seriously jacked from being lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK. I will go to a better shop because I remember them telling me that there were no adjustments for the rear which I knew was bullshit but we were days from an 8000 mile trip. The rear is wearing perfect, so far.
Now you say new shocks. I am figuring you meant struts. The inner edges are smooth worn. On my last Tbird it rode like a Cadillac and held the road. I changed the shocks and struts (cause they were 20 years old) then it rode rough and held the road.....
I used spring rubbers on the rear springs to help carry the load of camping gear we took with us. So far after the trip the rubbers seem to keep the car flatter in hard turns. So unless there is some danger you guys know of I was going to leave them in.
 

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There are no struts on your car; struts have two bolts on one end.

Ours pivot on both ends, thus are shocks.

Your choices are limited; If you can find Tokico Blues, that's the best available bolt ups, otherwise, read thru the Sticky threads in the suspension Section.

Monroes are cheap, but keep your old springs, you'll miss them later.
 
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I had a pair do that. I have three pairs in rotation. The pair that wore on the inside were different brand than the other two pairs. All stock 215/70R15. Did a lot of highway driving when the pair that wore were on the front. I think it's from taking highway interchange loops too fast.
 

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The stock tires for my car are 215 70R15. I have 225 60R15 on it to reduce gear ratio and increase steering response.
Hopefully the car is lowered to reduce that 4x4 gap. I used to have 215/65-15's on my old T-Bird, and even those 26" tires looked ridiculous.

I will say, the 215/70-15 size (although stodgy in appearance), makes the speedometer read dead nuts on. The most accurate a speedometer can possibly get, not including the CVPI calibrated speedo. I like having the speedo accurate, and not having inflated gas mileage. The downside is you would only be able to fit a 16 oz beer on top of the tire instead of the forty you currently can!

If you're trying to increase steering response, I have had good luck with a strut tower bars on other cars. Though I understand, they can cause cracking to the firewall on these cars.

Al
 

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With 225 60r15's, the purple gear makes the tranny right. :grin2:
 

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I dealt with the same problem with both my 1995 LX and my 2001 SVT Cobra.
It was the hubs.
These cars don't seem to display the classic wheel bearing wear signs when the hubs start to go out. I went through three sets of tires on the COBRA before changing the hubs. The dealership and the alignment shop didn't seem to have any answers except to keep re-aligning the front end. I finally just had the hubs changed out and solved the problem. The T-Bird was starting to show the same problem and fresh hubs solved the problem before I went through a set of expensive high speed tires.
 

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That doesn't really make sense; as the neutral position is slightly toe-in, if that was the case, it should be the outside edge wearing, not the inner.

I've worn out one set, and I could feel it, but didn't see it in the tire wear, but I typically knock off the outside corners by my driving style.

It would make sense for the op to have had them checked, but IDK if he did or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I actually like the few miles of difference on the speed. Kinda like a buffer against a ticket. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. Also the smaller diameter tires give me a noticeable amount more steering response.
Now as for the gap in the upper wheel well. It gives me a place to set my beer when I'm polishing the car..... LOL Not aesthetically pleasing but I can't see it from behind the wheel.
Hmmmm, I have been talking about a tower brace for a long time, but didn't know about the fire wall cracking.
Let me ask this. I am planning a roll bar system that will have above frame connections. The standard main bar welded into the rear seat platform down the front side to the floor. Then from there a smaller diameter bar welded into the main bar running forward to the fire wall (between door and seat) with plate steel welded from that to the floor pan. Also welding the main bar to the door latch area inside the car. Mary and I have already started collecting materials for this project. Reason is that I have noticed some of the body putty around the trunk area is breaking loose from flexing I figure... This sound like it's too much or not enough. Not really a race car but we do do a fair amount of spirited driving when ever the opportunity presents itself.
 
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