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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone has been watching my thread with my fuel pump issues http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=112308

ok the fuel pump runs, but for some reason the relay still won't click and transfer juice to the pump when the key is on. This is the 3rd brand new relay I bought. All the fuses are good. Would it be alright for me to bypass the relay and run a 12v toggle switch for the pump or does the pump need a different voltage other than straight 12v to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea, that seems to be fine. Heres what I'm pulling for voltage out of everything

relay while off
white 1.3
tan and green 1.3
yellow and black 12v
pink and black 0

intertia switch
red 1.3
white 1.3

With key on
relay
white 2.38
tan and green 2.38
yellow and black 12
pink and black 0

interia switch
white 2.38
red 2.38

To me it seems like something isn't triggering the relay to send juice to the pump
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well I have no countiunity in the interia switch, according to my book that means the PCM power relay is bad, where is that?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yea I'm just confused now, either the relay isn't switching cause when I connect it to direct power it comes on but the relay isn't turning it on, like something isn't triggering the relay to turn on, I dunno what else to do at this point
 

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3rd Gear Chirper
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2,399 Posts
No you can't use a relay, there is a reason for that big ceramic resistor in the CCRM. The fuel pump can only operate between 9.17 to 9.24 volts. If you put 12 to it, the motor will overheat and burn up.














Okay, seriously, you can use whatever relay you want. KB even makes the Boost-a-Pump, to increase the voltage going to the pump. I have a Bosch 30A relay for mine because my CCRM is long gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well the reason I ask is because my fuel pump relay won't come on, its a new one too. For somereason when I had the short whatever was suppose to switch the relay on won't. So I guess I would need a resistor. I going to try a couple more things but I'm at the end of my rope at this point and I need this car to be on the road asap cause I have to work 2 jobs and its getting harder and harder to get rides
 

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Pedal Faster
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2,658 Posts
Okay, okay we need to back up.

At the passenger side of the engine bay, on the firewall, there's a connector with a black plastic cap. Under that cap (which I believe says "EEC Test" or something like that) is a terminal that leads straight back to the fuel pump relay. It is spliced in with the wire that comes from the ECM. If you ground that wire and the fuel pump runs, then you know it is either a bad connection at the ECM or a bad ECM.

Also... are you sure that you know what relay is what? The fuel pump relay is in the trunk and it seems like you're talking about something under the hood in your other post. The relay that clicks under the hood is the EEC relay. When you turn the key to On or Start, the ECM grounds a wire that leads back to the fuel pump relay in the trunk, and that live ground energizes the relay. Relay grounded: fuel pump on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes the pump runs, I replaced the fuel pump relay, but it won't click, so according to my chilton manual that says the PCM relay is bad. So basically I bought the wrong thing?
 
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