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Discussion Starter #1
It's been crazy hot here. 90+ regularly. While my AC is keeping up, the Smurf seems to be hotter than usual. When I look at the data she has been topping off at 210*F. This is on the highway at ~80 mph and AC on max and fan high.
My engine fan is kicking on and running, coolant level & color is good.

Should I be worried and start looking at something or is it just hot?
 

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210 isn't too bad. 230+ is too hot. Keep your coolant fresh and the level right and you'll be fine. Try not setting the AC to max. 69 or 70 degrees and fan on auto should keep you cool. If not you might want to look at getting your AC serviced.
 

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True story. To a point, it doesn't matter what temp setting you have it on, a higher setting just blends in heat. If the A/C is on (including defrost and panel/floor), the compressor will cycle over and over again at the same pace regardless of temp setting. But if you go too high, it will finally shut the compressor totally off, and you'll be hot. Really hot!

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looking at more datalogs; in the heat it has peaked at about 220, but not for long. The other day was cool enough to leave the AC off for the ride home it still peaked at 212.
In the chart below the line is 200, the very peaks are 212 and the lowest is 197.6; this is ~1s sample time.
39125


Trying to make sure I shouldn't be looking at a worn water pump or gummed up radiator.
Thanks.
 

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Most thermostats start to open around 195*F. At sea level your water won't boil until it gets to 250*F or so. This is normal for modern cars. 60's era muscle cars used t-stats around 160*F, but their cooling systems weren't as high pressure. Modern cars run hotter to better burn the fuel for less emissions. Their cooling systems are around 16psi. Your temperatures seem perfectly normal, even if you lived at high altitudes. I would not worry about it.

Are you losing any of your water level? You might do a pressure check on your cooling system and radiator cap just to make sure they are good. If so, there's nothing to worry about.
 

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What does the factory gauge read, higher than usual? I know those things aren't scientific by nature, but they are pretty consistent. They do at least let you know if you're higher than normal.

My 97's gauge creeps up past the halfway point sometimes before the fan kicks in and pulls it back down. That gauge has always been very "active", going up and down. My old 95's gauge didn't move, unless you were stuck in traffic for a while.

I need to plug in my OBDII logger to see what the actual number is. There is such a thing as "too much information", that causes you to worry about things you shouldn't be worrying about.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For the gauge... sitting at middle, almost 90* vertical is pretty normal for the smurf, fans usually kick on and it drops.
I started to question the heat because it was going as far as 2/3rds of the sweep, well past the mid point. This is hotter than I'm used to seeing, but still within "Normal."
I never saw it reach 3/4, or get to the red area.
 

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I would stick strictly with the EEC data, or install an auxiliary gauge if it’s of concern. For reference my gauge would tend to go erratic when it pointed straight up, and would randomly fluctuate between there and max hot. When it behaved as normal, at 200-210° from the XCAL, it typically pointed at the N or at most the middle of the O in NORM on the gauge. Changed slosh modules(I had two bad ones actually) and the one now points shy of the N and barely touches the O if it’s really hot. Sender’s the same wiring’s the same, rest of the cluster is the same, just the slosh module was influencing what it pointed to. I think there may be current leak from the IC on the monitor input when they go bad.
 

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Most thermostats start to open around 195*F. At sea level your water won't boil until it gets to 250*F or so. This is normal for modern cars. 60's era muscle cars used t-stats around 160*F, but their cooling systems weren't as high pressure. Modern cars run hotter to better burn the fuel for less emissions.
Close, but not correct.

Water boils at 212F @ Sea level ( 14.7 PSIA / 0 PSIG )
50/50 Solution of Coolant / Water boils at 226F
50/50 Coolant / Water boils at 267F at 16 PSIG ( OEM Pressure Relief Cap on the 4.6 and 3.8 )

3.8 Thermostat starts to open at 193-200F, Fully open at 221F
4.6 Thermostat starts to open at 192-199F, Fully open at 219F

Radiator electric fan low speed operation starts at 222F and stop at 214F; OR when the A/C is on ( and below 48 MPH )
Radiator electric fan high speed operation starts when the Low speed fan is on when coolant temperature reaches 228F and stops at 220F
 

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Water boils at 212F @ Sea level ( 14.7 PSIA / 0 PSIG )
50/50 Solution of Coolant / Water boils at 226F
50/50 Coolant / Water boils at 267F at 16 PSIG ( OEM Pressure Relief Cap on the 4.6 and 3.8 )

3.8 Thermostat starts to open at 193-200F, Fully open at 221F
4.6 Thermostat starts to open at 192-199F, Fully open at 219F

Radiator electric fan low speed operation starts at 222F and stop at 214F, when the A/C is on ( and below 48 MPH )
Radiator electric fan high speed operation starts when the Low speed fan is on when coolant temperature reaches 228F and stops at 220F
Thanks for the extra details, I was just going from memory. Bottom line is Kidd-7 should not worry about it.

On my 97 4.6 it seems the fan runs continuously on low speed when the AC is on. Even if the engine is cold. If the temps do get higher, like 228, it will kick on high.

I would stick strictly with the EEC data, or install an auxiliary gauge if it’s of concern. For reference my gauge would tend to go erratic when it pointed straight up, and would randomly fluctuate between there and max hot. When it behaved as normal, at 200-210° from the XCAL, it typically pointed at the N or at most the middle of the O in NORM on the gauge. Changed slosh modules(I had two bad ones actually) and the one now points shy of the N and barely touches the O if it’s really hot. Sender’s the same wiring’s the same, rest of the cluster is the same, just the slosh module was influencing what it pointed to. I think there may be current leak from the IC on the monitor input when they go bad.
There are big differences in the computer and the gauges between the 94 model and the 97 model.
 

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Wow, surprised it sometimes lives in the 220-228 zone, that seems high. That's got to be only during hot temps, or when in traffic. I've tested both the T-Bird and Crown Vic, and they do about the same thing. Temp climbs to 192, then a sudden drop to 186 when the T-Stat opens, then stabilizes in the 190's, only hitting 200+ when sitting in traffic. But I do not keep the reader on the car for an extended period, and it was moderate temperatures.

A buddy of mine claims his Scat Pack Charger starts pulling timing above 190 deg. He's always been obsessed with temp on his drag cars.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the extra details, I was just going from memory. Bottom line is Kidd-7 should not worry about it.

On my 97 4.6 it seems the fan runs continuously on low speed when the AC is on. Even if the engine is cold. If the temps do get higher, like 228, it will kick on high.
- Bottom line is Thank you for the input. :)

Joe
[/QUOTE]
Close, but not correct.

Water boils at 212F @ Sea level ( 14.7 PSIA / 0 PSIG )
50/50 Solution of Coolant / Water boils at 226F
50/50 Coolant / Water boils at 267F at 16 PSIG ( OEM Pressure Relief Cap on the 4.6 and 3.8 )

3.8 Thermostat starts to open at 193-200F, Fully open at 221F
4.6 Thermostat starts to open at 192-199F, Fully open at 219F

Radiator electric fan low speed operation starts at 222F and stop at 214F; OR when the A/C is on ( and below 48 MPH )
Radiator electric fan high speed operation starts when the Low speed fan is on when coolant temperature reaches 228F and stops at 220F
You state OR when the A/C is on ( and below 48 MPH )
- Does that mean over 48 MPH it reverts back to normal operation; ie: fan will not kick on till 222F?
 

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A buddy of mine claims his Scat Pack Charger starts pulling timing above 190 deg.
This is true for many vehicles.

I did not think the fan ever kicked on above 48mph. The air flow coming in the front would be greater than the fan could ever create. If its true, I wonder why they did that?
In regards to A/C Operation, the Low speed fan will run continuously - except when the vehicle speed is over 45 mph and the coolant temperature is below 220F, it will turn off.

The air flow / pressure in front of the vehicle may be reduced in certain conditions such as drafting behind a semi-truck or driving with a tail wind.
 

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I need a new cooling fan. Which of these would you guys recommend? Or something else from somewhere else? Thanks.

 

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Well darn, I had the in laws throw away the one I had been saving off the FIL's 97 part out years ago this past summer because I figured I'd never need it! :(
 
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