[MadMikeyL]

I’ve had good luck with TYC stuff. Spectra used to be pretty good, but has really gone downhill in the last few years, so I would avoid that one.

 

[Zep5.0]

A quick Google search shows those are about it for available units (new). OE used stuff is going for the same price on eBay. Price is better than Summit or Amazon. I'd go with one of the more expensive units and hope it lasts.

 

[S4gunn]

I read up a LOT on aftermarket low profile high flow fans and I ended up investing in SPAL fans.
There are some other fans which quote higher CFMs but in several comparison videos on youtube, it was obvious which fan blew harder for the same amp draw.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I’ve had good luck with TYC stuff. Spectra used to be pretty good, but has really gone downhill in the last few years, so I would avoid that one.

Thanks. I'll order a TYC for now. It looks to be closest to OEM.

I read up a LOT on aftermarket low profile high flow fans and I ended up investing in SPAL fans.
There are some other fans which quote higher CFMs but in several comparison videos on youtube, it was obvious which fan blew harder for the same amp draw.

Which SPAL do you use? Can you provide a size and model number? Thanks.

 

[S4gunn]

Thanks. I'll order a TYC for now. It looks to be closest to OEM.



Which SPAL do you use? Can you provide a size and model number? Thanks.

I went a little nuts on cooling because we went to 2 or 3 races in a row and didn't get to race flag-to-flag. This is what got me to overbuild the cooling and oil system.
From my notes:

Cooling

Griffin Radiator (GRI-1-26242-X) w/ 1/8" bung welded in for temp sensor

- Griffin Radiator requires different radiator hoses: Upper Radiator Hose = DAYCO #72077 (slightly trimmed at radiator end) Lower Radiator Hose = DAYCO #71901 (slightly trimmed at WP end)

- Griffin Radiator requires radiator cap from 2000 Chevy CK2500 (Stant 10331 or CST 7816)

- Griffin Radiator requires custom brackets

- 16" SPAL pusher fan (#SPU-IX-30102048) installed on Race Radiator - 19amps (SPAL reccommends 40A fuse) - 12" SPAL puller fan: (#SPU-IX-30101504) installed on Race radiator - 13 amps (SPAL recommends 25A fuse)

Only thing I noticed was that I had to make sure my wiring was beefy enough to handle the current. I noticed some 14ga wire was getting a little melty so I had to beef up the wiring to 12 or 10ga from the relay and to the fan itself.

 

[RalphP]

That's good info, S4gunn .

RwP

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I went a little nuts on cooling because we went to 2 or 3 races in a row and didn't get to race flag-to-flag. This is what got me to overbuild the cooling and oil system.
From my notes:

Cooling

Griffin Radiator (GRI-1-26242-X) w/ 1/8" bung welded in for temp sensor

- Griffin Radiator requires different radiator hoses: Upper Radiator Hose = DAYCO #72077 (slightly trimmed at radiator end) Lower Radiator Hose = DAYCO #71901 (slightly trimmed at WP end)

- Griffin Radiator requires radiator cap from 2000 Chevy CK2500 (Stant 10331 or CST 7816)

- Griffin Radiator requires custom brackets

- 16" SPAL pusher fan (#SPU-IX-30102048) installed on Race Radiator - 19amps (SPAL recommends 40A fuse) - 12" SPAL puller fan: (#SPU-IX-30101504) installed on Race radiator - 13 amps (SPAL recommends 25A fuse)

Only thing I noticed was that I had to make sure my wiring was beefy enough to handle the current. I noticed some 14ga wire was getting a little melty so I had to beef up the wiring to 12 or 10ga from the relay and to the fan itself.

Thanks so much Gunn! As you may know, I've got a custom build Fluidyne. I'll add that SPAL pusher to the front in addition to the TYC puller that I ordered. Should help tremendously! I"m going to get a little crazy with my cooling too, I'm tired of sitting in traffic an watching the engine cook. I ordered the Fluidyne radiator but just discovered that my fan really wasn't working. This high compression stroker makes a LOT of heat!

Do you have any pictures of how you mounted it to share? Thanks again!

Any particular place to get it for a good price? I see Summit has it for $151 and change.

SPAL Automotive USA 30102048 Spal Electric Fans | Summit Racing

Find SPAL Automotive USA 30102048 Spal Electric Fans and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing! Spal electric fans are built to meet the most rigorous automotive cooling requirements. They are durable, reliable, and the choice of many NASCAR teams. Some models are also perfect...

www.summitracing.com

Edit: I found it at AMAZON for $138

Amazon.com: Spal 30102048 Pusher Fan (16In High Performance ; Curved Blade; For Use W/ 30Amp Fuse at 13V), 1 Pack: Automotive

Buy Spal 30102048 Pusher Fan (16In High Performance ; Curved Blade; For Use W/ 30Amp Fuse at 13V), 1 Pack: Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[dDUBb]

I was under the impression that a pusher fan and puller fan working in tandem could product varying results. I was looking into this not too long ago on another topic on this forum - the one about the PCM fan speed / temperature settings and fan speed operation at vehicle speed where the airflow coming into the front of the vehicle may overcome the fans ability to operate efficiently. I ended up reading a bunch of posts from engineers on technical forums about fluid density flow properties.

I dropped the research since the debate was pointless but this still is a topic of interest that may relate to what you are doing. You need fan operation at idle while the vehicle is not moving obviously.

I guess the only thing i am trying to bring up is that one fan may reduce the efficiency of the other if you have a more powerful pusher fan working against a puller fan. Does this make sense ??

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I don't see one fan overpowering or reducing efficiency of the other. The air will flow regardless. There will be loss of air flow from one side of the radiator to the other due to the resistance of the radiator - especially a thick one. The fans should work in tandem/concert with each other to move the air through the radiator and / or the AC condenser coils depending on placement. One fan will not reduce the efficiency of the other. Unless I'm missing some obscure physics rule, I don't see that happening.

I've only got 2" between the AC condenser coils and the radiator so I'm looking at adding the pusher in front of the AC condenser where I have more room. At 3.43" thick the 16" SPAL pusher that Gunn is using won't fit for my application. I'm going to have to downsize to a 12" pusher fan.

 

[dDUBb]

Were you planning on having the pusher fan operate on a separate temperature switch ? I get what you are saying about the resistance between the AC condenser and radiator being another factor. I think the most important thing is to achieve a regulated temperature in the radiator. I am now wondering how this will affect the operation of the air conditioning system as well.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Yes. Pusher fan with separate temp switch and place the pusher in front of the AC condenser.

Edit: I"m going to go with this Mishimoto 14" fan. I think it will fit nicely on the condenser. I'll have to drop the front bumper to reach it though. I'm not messing with removing the radiator and condenser to put it on from the back. I should have everything by the 24th. I'll update once I dig into this, probably the weekend of the 25th.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PPFR0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[S4gunn]

I was under the impression that a pusher fan and puller fan working in tandem could product varying results. I was looking into this not too long ago on another topic on this forum - the one about the PCM fan speed / temperature settings and fan speed operation at vehicle speed where the airflow coming into the front of the vehicle may overcome the fans ability to operate efficiently. I ended up reading a bunch of posts from engineers on technical forums about fluid density flow properties.

I dropped the research since the debate was pointless but this still is a topic of interest that may relate to what you are doing. You need fan operation at idle while the vehicle is not moving obviously.

I guess the only thing i am trying to bring up is that one fan may reduce the efficiency of the other if you have a more powerful pusher fan working against a puller fan. Does this make sense ??

IIRC, these were the largest fans from SPAL with the highest CFMs that would fit my radiator

I believe the theory says that since pullers don't impede airflow, they are more efficient than pushers so if you are only going to buy one, buy a single puller.
I couldn't fit two pullers so I offset and the area NOT covered by the puller got a pusher on the other side.
I wanted to use both to maximize coverage on my radiator.

Here was my spreadsheet. YMMV because you are using a different radiator.

RADIATOR COVERAGE CALCULATIONS
Single Fan	16" Pusher	30102047
	11" Puller	30101500
Dual Fan: Black Pusher & Red Puller
	Desc	Width	Height	Total Area
	Radiator	22.5	18.91	425.475
COVERED	16" pusher Fan	16	16	200.96
	16" Square	16	16	256
COVERED	11" puller fan	11	11	94.985
	11" square	11	11	121
OPEN	Area NOT covered above 16" Fan	2.91	11.5	33.465
OPEN	Area Not covered below 11" Fan	6	7.91	47.46
OPEN	3 quadrants NOT covered by 16" out of square			41.28
OPEN	3 quadrants NOT covered by 11" out of square			19.51125
Approx	AREA NOT covered by Fans (actually a hair less)			141.71625
	Percent Coverage
	Single 16" Fan	47%
	16" and 11" fans overlapping	67%

Pricing from 2 orders in April and May 2015 from Summit

SPU-IX-30130010
Fan Mounting Bracket, Plastic, Black, Each
(Mfr. #: IX-30130010)
$0.53 4 $2.12

SPU-IX-30102048
Fan, Spal, Electric, Single, 16.00 in. Diameter, 1,959 cfm, 12 V, Pusher, Black Plastic Shroud, Each
(Mfr. #: IX-30102048)
$119.26 1 $119.26


IX-30130010 - Spal Electric Fan Mounting Brackets SPU-IX-30130010
Fan Mounting Bracket, Plastic, Black, Each
(Mfr. #: IX-30130010)
$0.59 4 $2.36


SPU-IX-30101504
Fan, Spal, Electric, Single, 12.00 in. Diameter, 1,227 cfm, 12 V, Puller, Black Plastic Shroud, Each
(Mfr. #: IX-30101504)
$95.95 1 $95.95


The mounting brackets make it easier to make your own clips to attach it to the radiator. I just bent some flat stock to act as clips and bolted them to the little bracket holes.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I moved this conversation out of the chat thread and dropped it here to make it easier to find.

Thanks to Dan for laying out the coolant temps and fan turn on temps and thanks to Gunn for all the info.

I promised I'd update. I received the TYC OEM puller fan today and installed it tonight. It's working great. Ran the AC, and ran the car a little hard with the OD off and didn't see temps over 195. The ambient air temps have dropped today which was nice too. I had been seeing regular operating temps around 220.

I'm still waiting on the 14" Mishimoto fan that I'm going to install as a pusher in front of the AC condenser. I checked the tracking today and it shipped on Monday out of Ontario, California. It has to battle wildfires and a hurricane to get here. The scheduled deliver day is the 28th, I'll be surprised if I see it before the end of the month.

I also got a thumbs up and a wave from a guy in a nice Audi Q5 or Q7 while cruising down 485 tonight. That was nice.