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Discussion Starter #1
I dug this up from an old post of mine:
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I did a torque converter swap in my cougar myself, with no prior experience. It wasn't too hard.

You have to take the exhaust down, and you'll need a nice long extension to get to the driverside bolts from the top, and you might want to get a pack of replacement studs in advance, I bent 2 taking mine down.

To undo the driveshaft, you'll have to take down the driveshaft loop at the back and the little heatshield thats infront of the gas tank. The bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rearend are either 12mm or 13mm 12-point. (I can't remember which right now) I couldn't get a socket in there, so I used the box end of a regular combination wrench and a pipe extension to break them free.

You'll also need to lower the gas tank. You want an almost empty tank, at least less than an 1/8 of a tank. Place a jack and a board underneath it, it's plastic and you dont want all the weight of the tank concentrated on one place. Undo the 4 bolts for the straps and follow the fill tube up to a bolt that holds it in place, you need to undo that one too in order to drop the tank. It's easier to undo the driveshaft before you drop the tank.

Before you pull the driveshaft out, make sure you can see the yellow paint marks on the driveshaft and on the rear-end. You'll need to line these up when you put the drive shaft back in, so make sure you can see them or make new ones. Also when you pull the driveshaft out of the tail end of the tranny, there will be a white mark on the tailshaft, I used a marker and made a corresponding mark on the driveshaft so I could line this end up also. Be careful when pulling the driveshaft out of the tranny, you don't want to damage that rubber seal.

Now you can put the gas tank back up. And theres still a lot more to do before you can lower the tranny.

If you haven't already you need to drain the fluid out of the transmission, and torque converter. A-Train's writeup in the tranny tech articles covers how to do this. This is also a great time to do the custom shift kit from the tech articles.

All the electrical connections on the tranny need to come off, on the drivers side there are two connectors that look the same, make sure you remember which ones go where. You will also need to undo the shifter cable and the mounting bracket.

The starter need to be removed as well. Theres 3 bolts that hold it in, and the top one is the worst. I have heard people say they only used the bottom 2 bolts when they put it back in, and that it holds fine.

The fill tube for the tranny needs to come out, theres a bolt on the back of the passengerside head that holds it in place. You also need to undo the cooler lines.

Next would be the access cover at the front of the tranny. Theres 2 bolts for that. Once you have it off, you can undo the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. You can use an 18mm socket on the crankshaft pulley to rotate the torque converter to get to all the bolts, theres 4 of them. Make sure you only rotate it clockwise.

Now put a tranny jack in place. I recomend using a good one, if you don't have one rent it. Make sure you can adjust it to tilt forward and back. On a '96 up car you can get to the top two transmission bolts from the engine bay, they are behind the intake. For a '94-'95 car you will not be able to get to the top tranny bolts from the engine bay. To get to them, undo the crossmember bolts and lower the back end of the tranny a bit and use a couple of long extensions to reach up to the top 2 tranny bolts. I tried using a wrench on them and I don't think theres any other way to get to them. Now raise the tranny back up and loosen the remaining 5 bolts (3 on the drivers side and 2 on the passanger side). Before removing the tranny from the engine, place a jack stand under the oilpan to keep the engine from hanging down too far and breaking something.

When you seperate the engine and tranny, make sure to watch the torque converter so it doesn't fall out and damage anything. Now put the new one in, and make sure its seated all the way in. I don't know if your converter came with any marks or instructions for alignment, but if it did, use them. Raise the tranny back up and line up the bolts with the flexplate. Align the tranny on the engine dowels, and insert those two bolts. Hand tighten them and make sure the torque converter bolts are still lined up in the flexplate holes, and that nothing is bound. Check to see if you can still turn the crankshaft. Now go back and tighten the two bolts all the way, and then recheck that you can still turn the crankshaft. I had problems with everythign binding up untill I did it the way I just described. Now use new torque converter nuts to attach it to the flexplate. Now you can go and put the rest of the tranny bolts back in, and check once more that you can turn the crankshaft.

Now you can put everything back in the way you took it out. Make sure you align the driveshaft using those marks so that it stays balanced, otherwise you'll have a nasty vibration. I also used loctite on the driveshaft bolts to make sure they wouldn't fall out.

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I will lift my car up tommorow to check the bolt sizes and make a list of tools used.
 

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Originally posted by Chlorine
For a '94-'95 car you will not be able to get to the top tranny bolts from the engine bay. To get to them, undo the crossmember bolts and lower the back end of the tranny a bit and use a couple of long extensions to reach up to the top 2 tranny bolts.
As a note, I recently swapped a '99 GT 4R70W into my '95 Cougar, and I was able to get at the top drivers side bolt from the top of the engine bay, and the passenger side one from down below. With some extra reaching and squeezing, I was able to get to the passenger side one from the top as well. This was with a 3/8" drive ratchet. It is a tight fit, but is doable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got under the car tonight and took some pics, but forgot to try to figure out the bolt sizes, I'll do that tomorrow.

If you don't get the TC to seat all the way onto the input shaft, I don't think the tranny will be able to seat flat against the block, and you wont be able to bolt them together. The problem with the torque converter binding for me was the threads of the studs would get hung on the holes in the flex plate, the way I found worked was to jiggle the TC while you line up the tranny to the dowels on the engine. This way kept the threads from binding. Also you will want to check that you can still turn the crankshaft before you get too far. Preferably after you put 2 bolts in the tranny.

The first time I did it I had put all the bolts back in, put the driveshaft back on, the gas tank back up and all the wiring in place. Then I found that it was bound up and had to undo it all.

okcbird, could you post on how to get the rear diff down to move the driveshaft? I haven't done it that way, just dropped the gas tank each time.

I'll try to re-organize this into a proper tech article when I have time this weekend.
 

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The method of sliding the driveshaft back is much easier, here is how.

Remove all 4 driveshaft bolts.

Now loosen the two front pumpkin bolts, and then the two bolts that are ON the mount (not the bolts that hold the rear mount to the frame.) After they are all loose, slide a jack underneath the pumpkin. Loosen the nuts all the way off the bolts so that the pumpkin is resting on the jack, now slowly let it down. The goal here is to let the pumpkin rest on the half-shafts, making sure you don't pinch your e-brake cable as it will be close. (At least it was on my rear drum equipped car.) Now once the jack is gone the front of the pumpkin will swing down so slowly let it swing down to where it is "pointing" at the ground and then "push" it towards the back of the car. You will have plenty of room to slide the drive shaft back and out of the transmission.

Hope this helps.

-J
 

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#1. You need to remove the fluid BEFORE you remove the driveshaft if you drain the fluid through the lines with the engine running. Otherwise the tailshaft will shoot ATF all over.

#2. Driveshaft bolts are 12mm 12 point sockets. I know, I've shattered two already. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok, I decided to change this a bit, instead of a TC swap article, make it an article on how to remove the 4R70W transmission from the 4.6 and the 3.8, and then link to another article that covers the swap of the actual TC and flexplate if needed. Here is my outline, I do have removing fluid listed earlier than removing the driveshaft, that is something I realized after I made the original post, and never corrected it in this thread.

Tranny Article

Tool List

Removal:
-----remove fluid
-----remove exhaust
-----remove driveshaft either by:
----------lowering rear diff
----------lowering gas tank
-----put gas tank/rear diff back up
-----remove gear selector linkage
-----remove electrical connectors
-----remove tranny cooler lines
-----remove starter
-----remove dipstick tube
-----remove access cover
-----undo TC nuts
-----put jack in place
-----undo crossmember
-----undo top tranny bolts either:
----------from the top
----------from the back of trans
-----undo remaining tranny bolts
-----lower tranny

Perform other mods at this time:
-----Full j-mod with tailshaft lube line
-----torque converter swap
-----flexplate swap
-----front seal
-----tailshaft seal
-----new tailshaft
-----cleaning/painting

Installation:
-----raise tranny
-----align TC studs with flexplate
-----align dowel pins
-----check that TC studs don't bind
-----slide together, insert bolts for dowel holes, tighten together
-----check that TC is loose still, and crankshaft can be turned
-----put other bolts in place
-----put top bolts in either by:
----------going from the top
----------going from the tailshaft
-----bolt crossmember back up/use exsisting tranny mount or new solid rubber mount (pioneer part number)
-----put new TC nuts in
-----put access cover back on
-----put dipstick tube back in
-----replace starter
-----replace tranny cooler lines
-----reconnect wiring
-----reconnect linkage
-----lower gas tank/rear diff
-----replace driveshaft/use new driveshaft
-----put gas tank/rear diff back up
-----re-fill fluid, running engine halfway through, run through gears
-----listen that the sound of open headers/scare self with flames
-----put exhaust back up
-----test drive
-----refer to diagnostics if something wrong


could someone help me out with the front and tailshaft seals? I have not done those before. I also think my front seal is leaking, so I'll probably have a good change to go back in and take pictures for all of these steps.
 

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On the rear seal and bushing they make a special tool, or you can take a large socket and use that to force the bushing in. One helpful hint is to heat the tailhousing in an oven to 200 or 300 degrees and then put the bushing in the freezer. The seal is relatively easy, just make sure you use a large socket that fits over the entire thing and it will push the ring portion into the tailshaft housing, or if you don't have a large socket use a smaller hammer and slowly work you're way around it, evenly hammering it in.

-J
 

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Driveshaft Removal

you shouldn't have to remove any bolts on the pumpkin itself, if you take the straps off the tank, and use something to hold it up.. you can get it to the side and pull it right out.... ive done it twice already....

 

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jordansypek said:
you shouldn't have to remove any bolts on the pumpkin itself, if you take the straps off the tank, and use something to hold it up.. you can get it to the side and pull it right out.... ive done it twice already....

yes that is a good idea. i have done that too.
 

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The thing with the gastank method is, you have the damn thing hanging down and just being in the way while your removing the transmission, in my opinion, it's just as easy to put a jack under the pumpkin, take the 4 nuts off and let it swing down and rest on the axles and slide the driveshaft back (don't even have to remove it) and then you can pull the transmission down.

-J
 

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okcbird said:
The thing with the gastank method is, you have the damn thing hanging down and just being in the way while your removing the transmission, in my opinion, it's just as easy to put a jack under the pumpkin, take the 4 nuts off and let it swing down and rest on the axles and slide the driveshaft back (don't even have to remove it) and then you can pull the transmission down.

-J
I just strapped mine back up when i was done.. another thing to watch out for, one of the overflow lines for the gas tank runs kinda near where the rear yoke hooks up to the pumpkin, i had one of the overflow lines rubbing on my driveshaft and it wore a hole through it, we noticed it when i was doing a merc change... cause we saw a nice shinny line on the aluminum driveshaft... it must have fell out of place,we replaced the hose, and then tied it up good, but just a note if anyone sees this man anywhere near the driveshaft/rear center section...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Jordan, when you lowered the tank did you remove the driveshaft by taking it out the rear of the car, under the pumpkin? Or were you able to swing it sideways and slide it out of the tailshaft housing and take it out of the middle of the car?
 

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OK, wow this is a good thread. I have a couple of questions.

Here is my scenario. I plan on taking a three day weekend to complete this project. I Want to do the frpp 3.73 pumpkin swap, J-mod to the 96 4r70w, and a mark viii converter.

ok, so I am looking to have the most efficient and easy setup. Will this include-

1. removing the wheel/hub/axle
2. disconnect the driveshaft
3. removing the stock pumpkin
4. slide driveshaft out the tailshaft
5. remove TC bolts/nuts
6. remove tranny electrical/shifter goodies and bolts
7. Remove tranny from car....?
8. J-mod on bench......?
9. install new TC to tranny
10. Install new flexplate to engine
11. MAte tranny to engine, connect TC bolts/nuts
12. Slide in driveshaft
13. INstall new pumpkin......?

IS this the most logical and efficient way of doing this? Would doing the j-mod on a bench be a good idea? Is it a bad idea to do all these things at one time?

Hopefully your thoughts can shed light on the unexperienced mn12'er. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Unless you want to wrestle with the transmission on the ground to do the accumulator pistons, it will probably be easier to do them with the transmission in place.

Don't forget to mark the driveshaft so you can orient it the same way with the new pumpkin provided it has factory marks, if not just give it a 1/4 turn if you feel vibration while driving untill it goes away. The marks are so you have proper weight balance between the driveshaft and the pinion flange.

Also thanks for digging this thread back up, my car is on jack stands right now and I'm working on taking pics to complete the article.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you have a way to get the transmission on a bench, and a way to keep the accumulators from popping out from the spring pressure it would be easier that way.

In the article it tells to use a jack to relieve the spring pressure when you remove the lock rings. On my DVD it shows a special tool for that purpose.

 

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I did my J-Mod with the tranny in the car and it was easy as hell.
 

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Chlorine said:
If you have a way to get the transmission on a bench, and a way to keep the accumulators from popping out from the spring pressure it would be easier that way.

In the article it tells to use a jack to relieve the spring pressure when you remove the lock rings. On my DVD it shows a special tool for that purpose.
I think it's easier to do in the car... for the 1-2 I've done them by hand, one hand on the accum. cover, one on the pliers - but thats kinda tricky. A tool like this would be useful for this job. I did make a tool like this for myself for the OD servo out of a block of wood -drill 3 holes on the proper spots, insert large bolt into the middle one, voila!
 
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