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Discussion Starter #1
I inherited a 2001 Town Car last year. It had not been used much over the last 6-8 years and sat in the garage mostly undriven in Navarre Beach, Florida. The first day we drove it around the block, the right front brake got very hot. Had it checked, all okay. We drove it to Houston without issues then drove it to Bell, Missouri without issues. Last week after driving several miles, both rear brakes were nearly smoking hot (over 500 degrees on IR remote thermometer). Parking brake has never been used. I'm thinking of doing a complete brake job but when looking at master cylinders, being asked with or without traction control?? How do I tell if out Town Car has traction Control?
 

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You should have a button that will turn off/on the traction control. It is either on the left side of the dashboard or inside the glove box door to the left just as you open the door. Should look like this:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. That button has always been a mystery. It's just left of the steering column. Okay, so now I'm looking at what parts I might need - clearly pads and brake lines to caliper. New calipers or rebuild kit. I've never rebuilt one but did drum cylinders in late '60s. Disc look pretty good but have not checked size yet. Can anyone think of anything else? E brake seems to be working good.
 

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As cheap as calipers are I would just get new ones..
I just did calipers in the rear ,lines and performance pads n rotors on all 4 corners and was very happy with how cheap everything was..
 

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I'd just spring for new calipers. Check out RockAuto for some decent prices. And there is always a 5% discount code floating around that you enter in the "how did you hear about us" part when you are checking out.

If the rotors got that hot make sure to have them all checked/turned before you install new pads. This will ensure that everything is true and also allow you to bed the new pads in correctly to avoid grabbing/pulsing. When I put the police spec pads on my 03 CV LX Sport I was sure to follow the proper procedure to break them in. Brought em back smoking, lol. After that, they bite nice and no more wheel/pedal vibrations.
 

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That place really ROCKS. They look to have kits with everything (calipers, rotors, pads, hardware) I need except hoses and brake fluid. Either Phenolic or steel piston, only ~buck difference. Don't see a kit for the front and have to be careful selecting hose (limo, sedan, traction control??). I'll have to look those over carefully. Thanks for the tip.
 

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I just replaced both brake hoses on the TBird. They were less than $5 each on RockAuto. Be sure to get several quarts of brake fluid. My car blew the master cylinder and the brake fluid looked like bad coffee. I flushed 2 and 1/2 quarts of DOT 4 brake fluid through the car and it still had a milkshake look. The brakes worked fine but the brake pedal didn't feel great. I drove it for few weeks with the new master and it did improve a bit.

Along with the brake hoses I installed PBR calipers. I flushed another 2 and 1/2 quarts of brake fluid through the system. I finally got clear fluid out of the rear calipers. I got one front almost clear and started running low on brake fluid. I could have used another quart of brake fluid. And there's the fluid in the anti-lock system that doesn't get touched. So far the with PBR calipers and gallon of brake fluid the brakes work awesome! The pedal is higher and firm and the car feels like it lost 500 pounds.

So if the brake fluid in your car has been there for 15 years, the best thing you can do is make sure the fluid comes out of each corner clear after doing repairs. My rear calipers look like they will be at the end of their life within a year. Next time I will get 3 quarts of brake fluid. Don't attempt to rebuild rear calipers. There's a spring requires special tools.
 

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That place really ROCKS. They look to have kits with everything (calipers, rotors, pads, hardware) I need except hoses and brake fluid. Either Phenolic or steel piston, only ~buck difference. Don't see a kit for the front and have to be careful selecting hose (limo, sedan, traction control??). I'll have to look those over carefully. Thanks for the tip.
You don't have a Limo so that's out. You have a sedan with traction control. I'd go with the Wagner or Raybestos hoses personally.

Here is a RockAuto discount code that was posted recently--> 8293116274527502
 

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Discussion Starter #9
At Rockauto I noticed that the Wagner all say "washers not included". Has anyone ordered wagner hoses from Rockauto and found that the washers are indeed not included? Even the low end Sunsong show washers included. Use the originals or purchase extra?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
At Rockauto I noticed that the Wagner all say "washers not included". Has anyone ordered wagner hoses from Rockauto and found that the washers are indeed not included? Even the low end Sunsong show washers included. Use the originals or purchase extra?
Found the little guys at RA
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, I got all my parts lined up, got the car on jack stands, wheels off. The rotor are attached with what look like steel lock washers (two on each). Do I just back those off with pliers or channel locks? Or is there some socket that fits it. Looks like I can just use a chisel or screw driver to lightly spin it after soaking in WD or rust buster.
 

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Those are called 'speed clips", and never get replaced after the fist set of rotors, usually. :)

A pair of pliers should get them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's great to have some help on this end. Hopefully, this will be my last question. Is there a bleeder port on the ABS pump. Lacking the correct scan tool to bleed the ABS, is the only way to accomplish this, is doing the dirt road, "slamming on the brakes thing" several times? Then go back and re-bleed the 4 wheels?
 

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I know there isn't anything like that on our MN12s; I would venture to say probably not on the Panthers but... I could be wrong. :)

For that matter, I've never really had issues getting air out of the lines doing the full "RR/LR/LF/RF" order bleeding. Hitting the brakes hard on dirt/gravel after that didn't really change the pedal feel, got some some peace of mind though.
 

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There is no bleeder on the ABS unit, but the only way you would need to bleed that is if the system went completely dry, so if you work quickly, and periodically top off the fluid, you won't have any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, now I just ordered a complete right rear caliper. Could not get the piston out. It was the one with melted dust seal. Even 120psi will not budge it. Cannot even move in a vise! What I should have done is completely disassemble all b4 ordering parts. I also could not break the bolts that hold the front right caliper bracket. I tried all the usual - soaking with rust-buster, beating on it, as giant a break bar could fit, etc. A 19mm and a 3/4" 6pt seem to fit a tad loose and continue to slip and are starting to round off the high side of the bolt - it was fairly rusted. Thankfully that rotor is still in spec and not rough. This old man and this old free car are starting to eat my lunch. I'm still saving over $1,200. I was quoted $1,200 - $1,600 for this work locally.
 

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If you can't move it in a vice, just hope they give you Core credit, lol.


Even if it loosened up, I wouldn't use it.

Replacements are fairly cheap, compared to "No Brakes!".
 
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