If you get stuck anywhere, give me a call. Just a few tips ..
I usually un-do the ragjoint bolt first, then rotate the steering wheel to center and lock it in place - then use the seat belt and wrap it in place.
When the wheel is centered the bolt usually ends up on the top. I use a crow bar and pry against the subframe to pop the ragjoint off the rack input splines
Never turn your wheels lock to lock while the car is up in the air without the engine running - or else it will squirt the fluid back up through the resivoir - Ive seen it shoot as far as 15 feet - and then you might get an air pocket you have to bleed out :tongue:
Once you get it "unbolted", I put a pan under the fittings and un-do the low pressure line is just a clip and hose, and the high pressure line with a 18mm crows foot socket ( lots of room on the 3.8 NA, the SC, 4.6 and Mark8's are more fun to work on ..
) .. once you get the high pressure fitting off, you still need to take the elbow fitting off - 18mm also .. or it will get caught when you are taking the rack out of the subframe - you dont want to bend this piece.
Line the racks up next to eachother - and line up the input splines close together. THen you can measure the distance between the nuts for the endlinks - to a reference point on the rods or housing so you can install the endlinks at the same distance - any fine tuning you do after that needs to be done on the vehicle, or with an alignment.
Install everything in the reverse order .. when you have the steering wheel fully locked in either direction the valve inside the rack is open fully to allow more fluid to enter and bleed out the air - you can also bleed out air at the high pressure line with the cap on the fitting - push something on the button and it will squirt.
Usually .. 2-3 hour job.
