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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Next time you bring the DOHC Bird, write "mustang engine" on the description sheet and I'm sure you'll get a few more votes ;)

Haven't seen your 95 SC yet, I guess its a recently purchased car? How do you compress the springs when reinstalling them?
The weight of the car does all of the work. ;)

Yeah .. the 95 SC was actually "donated" by its previous owner. He wanted it to go somewhere it wouldnt get chopped up or parted out, so I agreed to take on the restoration project. :D

.. are you coming to the show this Saturday ???
 

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The weight of the car does all of the work. ;)

Yeah .. the 95 SC was actually "donated" by its previous owner. He wanted it to go somewhere it wouldnt get chopped up or parted out, so I agreed to take on the restoration project. :D

.. are you coming to the show this Saturday ???
Well my rack and pinion comes in tomorrow and I was going to start putting it in. In a perfect world, I should be done before the show and register the day of the show, but I never done it before so I dont know how long it will take me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
If you get stuck anywhere, give me a call. Just a few tips ..

I usually un-do the ragjoint bolt first, then rotate the steering wheel to center and lock it in place - then use the seat belt and wrap it in place.
When the wheel is centered the bolt usually ends up on the top. I use a crow bar and pry against the subframe to pop the ragjoint off the rack input splines

Never turn your wheels lock to lock while the car is up in the air without the engine running - or else it will squirt the fluid back up through the resivoir - Ive seen it shoot as far as 15 feet - and then you might get an air pocket you have to bleed out :tongue:

Once you get it "unbolted", I put a pan under the fittings and un-do the low pressure line is just a clip and hose, and the high pressure line with a 18mm crows foot socket ( lots of room on the 3.8 NA, the SC, 4.6 and Mark8's are more fun to work on .. ;) ) .. once you get the high pressure fitting off, you still need to take the elbow fitting off - 18mm also .. or it will get caught when you are taking the rack out of the subframe - you dont want to bend this piece.

Line the racks up next to eachother - and line up the input splines close together. THen you can measure the distance between the nuts for the endlinks - to a reference point on the rods or housing so you can install the endlinks at the same distance - any fine tuning you do after that needs to be done on the vehicle, or with an alignment.

Install everything in the reverse order .. when you have the steering wheel fully locked in either direction the valve inside the rack is open fully to allow more fluid to enter and bleed out the air - you can also bleed out air at the high pressure line with the cap on the fitting - push something on the button and it will squirt.

Usually .. 2-3 hour job.
 

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I was to busy to start the install yesterday so Im just going to hold off until Sunday, that way I should make the show no problem. BTW does anyone have any junk inner tie rods that I can use as a core? I replaced my tie rods a few months ago with motorcraft and want to keep them.
 

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I was to busy to start the install yesterday so Im just going to hold off until Sunday, that way I should make the show no problem. BTW does anyone have any junk inner tie rods that I can use as a core? I replaced my tie rods a few months ago with motorcraft and want to keep them.
Crap I threw some out a couple months ago, I would have given them to you...
 

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Does anyone have any centercaps for the 15" wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
I have a couple ... with or without the Bird sticker in the middle ?

Me and Jose are pre-registered. I havent sent in my form, but I have payed already.

We're working on our cars right now .. LOL :tongue:

- Dan
 
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