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I installed the traction assist system in my 95 a few years ago from a donor car because the ABS lines rusted out. It is not perfect(does not modulate throttle, but you can ease up on the gas) but I wouldn't wan't to be without it now. I've tried many with/and withouts on slippery surfaces and it seems to keep the car more stable. I drove in fresh snow and it was on a lot, to the point that it shut off to protect itself. I know it is on when the voltage gauge flicks and you hear a buzz in the back.

Going up some inclines, there is no way the one wheel wonder would have made it without the T/A. I even have studded tires. If you are hard on the gas in snow without T/A, the rear will eventually slip out.

I'm thinking of getting trac loc, but also I wonder how it reacts around curves. The traction assist saved me once turning a wet surface, if one or even both wheels were slipping without traction I think I would have spun out. Trac assist does not lock wheels together, but transfers power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip. I watched it from behind too and it seems to partially brake both wheels if the slipping becomes constant(guess that is why it has to shut down). That way there is always one wheel that holds traction and is not in a slipping state.

I read on another forum how someone went around a slippery curve with a trac loc, and spun out because both wheels were locked and slipping. Is this an issue with T/L? Seems it would be great for straight line traction, but a bit dicey around curves.
 

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It takes some experience to handle trac-loks in the snow or on icy roads.

A half dozen spin outs or so and you'll see what I'm talking about! :D
 

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Pfft, I got trac lok because of snow/icy conditions. Getting sideways with an open is way more dicey
FWIW, I spent over 20 years driving in the snow & ice and an open is a lot harder to GET sideways in the first place than a posi equipped car - you'll just sit there and spin one tire.
Matt, if you think a posi is easier to control, more power to you. A posi/trak-loc sure does move you better in slippery conditions (which only makes sense since you have two tires pulling rather than one).

But y'all are welcome to get your own experiences - have a good time! :D
 

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Open slips a wheel; posi slips the drive angle.

Posi has 2x traction, but is harder to correct when slipping.

I don't have issues with either; but switching to posi changes the whole deal, not just the slip.

IMHO, posi in low traction conditions is more difficult for the driver, and probably beyond the novice driver.
 

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And when did we become a GM board? It's Trac-Lok people!!!!:tongue:
Well, TECHNICALLY, Ford calls it "Traction-Lok", Trac-Lok is a Dana/Jeep term.

Here is a list of various terms from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited-slip_differential

Alfa Romeo: Q2
American Motors: Twin-Grip
Buick: Positive Traction
Chevrolet/GMC: Positraction
Chrysler: Sure Grip
Dana Corporation:Trak-Lok or Powr-Lok
Ferrari: E-Diff
Fiat: Viscodrive
Ford: Equa-Lock and Traction-Lok
International: Trak-Lok (clutches only) or Power-Lok (clutch and ramping engagement process)
Jeep: Trac-Lok (clutch-type mechanical), Tru-Lok (gear-type mechanical), and Vari-Lok (gerotor pump), Power Lok
Oldsmobile: Anti-Spin
Pontiac: Safe-T-Track
Porsche: PSD (electro-hydraulic mechanical)
Saab: Saab XWD eLSD
Studebaker-Packard Corporation: Twin Traction
TVR: Hydratrak
Yukon Gear & Axle: Duragrip
 

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The T-bird was originally equipped with traction assist and an open 3.27. I swapped in a 3.73 traction-lok pumpkin a couple years ago but left the traction assist intact. Having both, my observation is that having the TL doesn't really help much versus the open when getting started out on wet roads going around a corner. I haven't yet pushed it to its limits though, and I don't drive it in snow. It seems like the T/A kicks in at about the same TP as it did before the TL.
 
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