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well i got me a b&m tranny cooler a 20,000gvw rated one. now i was just curious on how you guys installed your's. i also have a tranny temp sensor as well.
 

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I'm in middle of same project on 96 Mk VIII - So far I've disconnected existing lines from Radiator unions & rerouted those ends to passenger side - I'll work thru the large holes we have in lower bumper - The distance the stock piping setup uses to run from passenger side to driver side & up radiator is plenty enough to get them to passenger side lower front bumper - All I need now is a nice cooler with like fittings.
 

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Disconnecting Lines from radiators is easy but do NOT mess with the Hex Adapters at Radiator or you will rip plastic end off your Aluminum Radiator~!- In the process of doing this now on MK8 & not wanting to do a cooler in front of/attached to radiator I concluded one 12 inches is MAX length in the void forward of Rad support & under bumper - & yeah you can wedge something larger if you are determined - Whether you go the bar type cooler or radiator type 12 inches is max width if your goal is under Bumper & you have the fancy MK8 P/S cooler on driver side - Many such on Ebay under $35inc shipping if you shop - Near Rad support passenger side you will have to make the transition from the stock lines you have coerced from driver side to pasenger side - Do some plumbing with flare & tubing cutters & new Tubing as you mate existing Trans tubing to your new Cooler Lines
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I usually take one line off of the radiator just so I can access the line to cut it. Cut one line and flare both ends of what you just cut. Mount the cooler and bend new tubing to the distances you need then flare both ends. Install the rubber hose that came with the cooler in 6-8 inch sections.
Always recheck the clamps after a day or so they like to loosen up.
Alan
 

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Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Mine is the 26,000 B&M. As far as I can remember... I used the only the included mounting hardware plus an extra 3 feet of tranny cooler hose and two 1/4" x 3/4" bolts with lock washers. I mounted the top of the cooler off the holes for the SATC external temperature sensor bracket and driver's side center most header panel support bracket. The bottom I had to drill a couple holes. No big deal, really. I plumbed it inline with and after the stock cooler. I had no trouble getting the large fitting out of the radiator... no splicing or flaring, and I can return it to stock easily if I ever need to. Works great! Perhaps if I get some time I'll snap a few pics.
 

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Ever notice NHRA does not allow long lengths of transmission hose and major manufacturers don't use it that way. It is easy, but problematic. Hose will move around with the surge of lockup.
Alan
 

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Hose will move around with the surge of lockup.
Alan

how long will the pump seals last after the fluid runs out? :)

Will it hit neutral, or is it too late by then?

It's never happened on one of my Cougars, but my old 63 bird did that once; didn't cause any issues I noticed on it.
 

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Every car is different. I have seen people run a transmission completely dry, fill it back up and drive it for years. Then I have seen people run a couple quarts low and fry every clutch in the transmission.
Alan
 

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My $.02! Flaring the lines is extremely important! The shop that installed my tranny cooler was lazy and didn't flare the lines. Luckily nothing happened the first year but during the 2nd winter one of the hoses finally slipped off! The tranny pretty much ran out of fluid and I barely made it home. Luckily there was no major damage and I learned a lesson. When you want something done right, don't pay someone else to do it!:rolleyes:
 

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- Any monkey can use a flaring tool & a tubing cutter & a tubing bender & a compession fitting or AN fittings & plumb it up proper.
 

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Actually a small piece of rubber is recommended but the line has to be flared. Unless you have solid motor mounts you want the rubber for flex. I think stainless hose is the expensive yet lazy way out.
Alan
 

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Well now that I think of it I have Rubber hoses on the Talon Oil Cooler & the Cooler shock mounted also - & I could certainly see where if the Cooler was hard mounted there should be some flex in hookups - The Stock setup of course is hard lines mated to the "shock mounted" Radiator.
 

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Stop by on your way to the shootout I just bought a mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. I have some really cool stuff I can do now!
The wifes car is about to get aluminum lines.
Alan
If I get enough time off work to go to the shootout, I may take you up on that. :thumbsup:
 

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i cut the return hard line down low like drillers second pic. based on some good advice, i used a 5/16 to 1/4 NPT compression fitting. I put a hose barb on the end and routed that to the trans cooler. i ran the other hose to the upper trans fitting on the radiator.

you could mount your temp sensor at that compression fitting like driller shows.

just use some common sense where you route the hoses so they don't pinch. i used some loosely zipped ties to keep them aligned.

i mounted my cooler at an angle in front of the radiator using some metal straps and existing holes in the lower rad support.
 

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Good God that huge thing Driller has is more like a Turbo Intercooler than a Tranny Cooler~!
 
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