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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All, a few questions about tranny cooler installations, I've done a search and read up on what little there was about installations, but I'm still a bit confused:


1 - trying to find a decent spot to mount the tranny cooler.

Tried fixing it between the rad and the condenser, but there's NO room for me to get in there to fasten it to the rad, on either side.

Tried in front of the condenser, but again - there's no where to secure it.

Right now I've found a spot that might work OK, it's up inside the bumper cover laying flat, the fins will get air flow through the holes in the cover.

IMHO it's a DUMB spot to have a cooler, and unless I hear of a better spot to put it I'll finalize the installation with it there.


2 - Where and what line(s) do I hack into?

Just how do I hook up the hoses to the existing tranny fluid lines? Is the top tranny line the one with fluid FROM the tranny, and the bottom line the one with fluid going BACK to the tranny?

I'm assuming the best line to hack into would be the return line, allowing the rad to act as a pre-cooler?

About the cooer itself, does it matter which side the fluid goes in and comes out? There's no labels on it as far as in/out, so again, I'm assuming it doesn't matter?


3 - Are the worm gear fittings suitable for the rubber hose ends to fit onto the metal lines?
 

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Where to mount it depends on the brand/design. I got a B&M style cooler from Canadian Tire and it came with all or the hoses and hardware and I was able to hang it in front of the rad support, I just unscrewed the bracket for the hood latch and put the supplied hardware on there without any drilling. I bypassed the rad completely and put bolts in the old holes. It doesn't matter whether the lines are coming or going to the trans. I also cut the lines so I could get rid of that rubber/metal flex section because they go bad anyway. Good luck
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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i use zip tie instead of bolts and nuts. will change it.....one day....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's in :)!

Last night when I started on this I didn't quite understand the "remove the hood latch" part. I had taken off the latch but not the bracket, which restricted my getting into the area in front of the condenser.

Anyways, I've got the cooler zip-tied to the condensor - it's very tight and secure there. I don't understand why that is considered 'cheezing out', it's the best spot for that thing to go. Anywhere else it'd just be hanging hap-hazardly and fittings would work themselves loose. Didn't feel like getting too complex and fabricating brackets for it.

I cut about 4" out of the return line, right at the bend. The 5' of hose cut in 2 pieces was more than enough to complete the job, I simply slid each hose end over the hard pipe, and put on the clamps. Will buy more clamps, kit only came with 4. One concern is that the hoses route around the bottom corner of the condensor, right beside metal edges of the rad cradle. I'm going to buy some insulating tube (like plumbers use) for that spot, would hate to have the lines rupture.

No leaks, would like to test drive it - but 1/2 way through an oil change I realized that the 2 filters I thought were for the 5.0 Cougar were for the 4.6 Marquis :mad:. Oh well, off to Crappy Tire in the LS.
 

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Great, I'm glad you got it in. I've installed a couple of them and I like the fact that I bypassed the rad cause if I ever have to replace it, I can use either 5speed or AOD rad. Enjoy
 

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I always equated those zip-tie things akin to sticking hacksaw blades into the condensers.... directly below the PS cooler seems to be much safer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Silver95Bird said:
I always equated those zip-tie things akin to sticking hacksaw blades into the condensers.... directly below the PS cooler seems to be much safer.
Huh? How do you equate sticking zip ties between the fins of the condensor to sticking hack saw blades through it :confused:? Plastic zip ties won't hurt metal fins.


I didn't even know I had a PS cooler - is that the thingamajig on the bottom right side of the rad?

The cooler may be modified some day to bypass the stock rad, because more than likely it'll need a thicker core rad for the 408 going in there :).
 

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Interestingly enough, I watched a TV show called "How Its Made" on the manufacture of radiators today.
They showed the trans cooler being placed in the bottom and it was only a single tube which is nothing compared to an aftermarket cooler from almost any company. Good luck
 

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Those zip ties will move around and vibrate while you're driving, and your condenser/radiator is made of really thin metal... Plastic or not they do have a lot of ridges on them that can still wear on things.
The PS cooler is out in front of the condenser, down low.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ah OK, I see what you're saying.

i don't know if it'll be a problem in the long run, the condensor fins seemed pretty tough, as I really pulled those zip ties very tight, and nothing collapsed or was crushed.

Even if the condensor gets fried - no big deal, AC is nice - but not all that important :D.
 

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Dang man, that looks nice! Not sure how I'd attempt that on the coolers that only have the barb fittings though. It would sure make life easier.
 

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will you make one for me?:D
 

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I placed mine under the battery box on the driver's side. I could run a bigger cooler, but my trans runs cold now. In winter I have to put cardboard around the cooler to cut off the air flow.
 

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I have the 24,000 B&M cooler and mounted it between the PS cooler and the condenser. It's a tight fit, not much clearance between it and the A/C condenser. I bent the last hole on the supplied brackets 90 degrees, bolted this to the cooler. I removed the hood latch from the radiator support to get the cooler into place. I removed the bolts from the PS cooler and slid the brackets between the PS cooler brackets and the bumper. Then put the PS cooler bolts back in. I had to buy an extra length of hose to reach the lower radiator transmission cooler lines. I went to a junk yard and got a cooler line off a wreck, flared it, bent the line back from the radiator and installed the hose. No leaks! I used a strip of metal that I had from a radio installation kit to attach the top of the cooler to the hood latch. Only problem with this is it's so close to the A/C condenser it'd be toast if you bumped something.
 
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