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Working out some kinks in my 66 project. I'm running a 331 stroker with holley sniper efi. Air conditioning w/ 02 4r70w and US shift Quick 4 (FTI 2400 street brawler lockup converter).

Finally got the car together after a few months, and I've got a couple bugs that need addressing. One of them is the overall temp of the motor when running on hot days.

It's been in the 90s with alot of humidity. I watched my motor temp reach up near 220 while stuck in traffic for about 15 min with the AC on. I'm running a 3 core champion radiator (OEM size for 66 mustang) with a spal electric fan with the trans plumbed through 6an braied lines attached to the bottom ports on the radiator.

Today when the temps started to climb, I noticed the trans temp hit up around 201. This is light cruising around. Not getting on it at all as I'm still breaking in the motor/build.

So, I had a few questions.
1. Will a trans cooler help reduce the radiator temp if I plumb it after the rad on it's way back to the trans? I would assume, yes but not much. And may gain more reduction in temp with item 2 below.
2. Can I skip the radiator all together? Car won't really be driven except for "Better weather". I plan to drive it alot, but just not in the dead of the winter. (Live near St Louis MO area in the Midwest)
3. What size trans coolor should I work on finding a home for in my 66 with either of the above scenarios? (IE with radiator, without radiator)
4. I can only mount either right in front of the AC condensor, or behind the front apron (no direct air flow down there).
 

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I say bypass the radiator alltogether, I ran mine like that with a Hayden 679 for years as a daily driver and trans temps were never an issue. I also ran it in front of the condensor, but the radiators are quite a bit wider in these MN12s than classic Mustangs so YMMV
 

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I say bypass the radiator alltogether, I ran mine like that with a Hayden 679 for years as a daily driver and trans temps were never an issue. I also ran it in front of the condensor, but the radiators are quite a bit wider in these MN12s than classic Mustangs so YMMV
I don't think the Hayden 679 will fit.
I say bypass the radiator alltogether, I ran mine like that with a Hayden 679 for years as a daily driver and trans temps were never an issue. I also ran it in front of the condensor, but the radiators are quite a bit wider in these MN12s than classic Mustangs so YMMV
I dont think the Hayden 679 will fit. Would it help reduce engine Temps of i separate the two?
38845
 

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With light driving and sitting in traffic, I highly doubt the trans is creating enough temp that an auxiliary cooler will change your engine temp. That being said, if it's a healthy 331, a trans cooler is a great idea.

I'm not familiar with that fan, and wondering how much it flows and if you have a shroud/surround so it can actually pull it's quoted cfm.
 

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Always bypass the heat exchanger in the rad! Unless you are living in the arctic, you never want to purposely heat up your trans fluid, especially in a performance application. Even the OEMs have gotten away from that practice lately. Most newer cars have the trans cooler attached to the bottom of the AC condenser now. Plus bypassing the one in the rad completely eliminates the possibility of it going bad and mixing the trans fluid and coolant, which is a surefire way to fry your trans real quick.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
With light driving and sitting in traffic, I highly doubt the trans is creating enough temp that an auxiliary cooler will change your engine temp. That being said, if it's a healthy 331, a trans cooler is a great idea.

I'm not familiar with that fan, and wondering how much it flows and if you have a shroud/surround so it can actually pull it's quoted cfm.
The fan is the SPAL 1516 Medium Profile. 802 cfm real numbers through the rad. Said it should cool up to 450hp. I went through the setup with Champion Radiators/Ledfoot racing and they assured me it should cool the car enough. Yes, it has a shroud made from aluminum specifically made for my radiator/fan combo.
 

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Always bypass the heat exchanger in the rad! Unless you are living in the arctic, you never want to purposely heat up your trans fluid, especially in a performance application. Even the OEMs have gotten away from that practice lately. Most newer cars have the trans cooler attached to the bottom of the AC condenser now. Plus bypassing the one in the rad completely eliminates the possibility of it going bad and mixing the trans fluid and coolant, which is a surefire way to fry your trans real quick.
Any rule of thumb when looking for a trans cooler to bypass the rad. As noted, I have very limited space for a trans cooler. Especially with direct airflow across it. I could hide a narrow long one at the bottom of the condenser behind the bumper, but there's not alot of air flow there.
 

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You could fit a fairly healthy sized one between the radiator and the condensor.

Also, I think you have more room than you think you have.

RwP
 
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It’s hard to see just how much room you have from the pictures, but the general rule of thumb is you want the biggest trans cooler you can fit. Also keep in mind that you could also run 2 separate smaller coolers plumbed in series. Based on the pictures, I might look to run one long thin one vertically on each side of the center rad support brace, but really you’ll have to see what you can fit. Also keep in mind that a stacked plate cooler is much more efficient per size at removing the heat than a tube and fin cooler, so with space being an issue, I would definitely look for a stacked plate one.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Well riddle me this.... Ive read that some cars aren't even running the trans through the radiator. How small is NOT enough trans cooler to run it separate from the radiator?
 

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I dunno, and it will depend on your actual cooling situation, transmission, torque converter, and how you drive.

!I! just got the biggest one I could fit and then didn't use the radiator cooler.

I live in Louisiana, where we're already hitting 95F and having HI temps of 107F ...

And my transmission and motor in my Dakota are keeping nice and cool. Ish. (As in "Under 200F for radiator")

RwP
 

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That really depends on a lot of factors. You have it in a lightweight vehicle, with a low stall speed lockup converter, so that reduces the amount of heat created in the trans, but then you are putting more power through it, so that creates more heat. It also depends how you are using the car. If it is just a drag car, you can get away with a smaller cooler than if you are auto crossing it. The real answer to that is get a trans temp gauge and see where your temps wind up. You want the temps to stay under 180F. Also if you scour the junkyards, Crown Vic police cars have a plate trans cooler that is fairly small but effective. I have run that alone on stock vehicles with stock transmissions that were not being driven hard, and it kept the temps in check under those conditions.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
It's a street car. Cruising around, a few "spirited tire spins" here and there. But not dragging or autocrossing.
 

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I'd still go for the largest stacked plate I could fit between the condensor and the radiator.

Which may be almost as big as either one.

RwP
 

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I'm with Ralph and Mikey, looks like there is some room to be used up front there for a plate cooler or two.

To be honest though, I'm not sure this is going to help the coolant temp at all. I don't know what the bottom side looks like but it appears you could have fit a wider radiator in there- maybe 6 inches wider? Then a dual fan set-up that pulls 2500+ cfm behind it and you'd be cool as long as your AFR is in check. I don't think that's enough fan, although your radiator may be enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wider rad would interfere with ac lines. The gap between the rad and the condensor is approximately 1" .
I thought there has to be an air gap between the condensor and rad?

Measuring around for mounting on the outside of the condensor looks like 7"x14"x3/4" would fit.

Think that would be enough?

38852
 

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Discussion Starter #20
After some searching, it looks like the condensor doesn't need an air gap and I should actually seal that void.

I'd be curious if placing a trans cooler between the two would be a good idea though? I'm all ears.
 
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