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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey what’s going on mn12 guru’s

the bird recent received a new trans mount from rock auto. I feel like it’s tighter than the one it replaces, but still far from what I think it should be doing. So I come with this idea, of a more solid method only problem is I’m not sure what would be a good bushing to support the weight. I’ve looked at the rear diff pinion bushing but not sure if it can handle the weight of the trans. Here’s a link to the bushing I mean.

energy suspension 4.1126






So here’s my idea, 3/16 plate cut out to the shape of the original and use 1/2 all thread with some nuts and washers to make the center screw where it attaches to the crossmember also I be able to make it use 2 bolts to the crossmember as apposed to 1 like the original mount. The energy suspension kit already send you 4 bushings. Any idea fellas?

I’ve started a lil projects for the bird and never get around to finishing them. But I’d really like to finish this soon haha




if the trans mount don’t belong in this section please move it, thanks.
 

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1991 Mercury Cougar LS 5.0 in restoration
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Agreed, and it's not going anywhere as it's bolted to the engine anyway. I can't see any benefit to something more solid there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That’s a shame. I’ve seen over in the mustang world they use poly mounts to solid mount em. I did have a buddy that broke his tail shaft but it was due to redline clutch dumps haha. I feel as if the car bounces due to the weakness of this mount. After recently swapping the bouncing has improved a lot but I feel it’s not enough.
 

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That’s a shame. I’ve seen over in the mustang world they use poly mounts to solid mount em. I did have a buddy that broke his tail shaft but it was due to redline clutch dumps haha. I feel as if the car bounces due to the weakness of this mount. After recently swapping the bouncing has improved a lot but I feel it’s not enough.
Use a solid rubber mount instead of the hydraulic stock mounts.

Stock ones and their replacements have a fluid in them to keep NVH down. Theyre just a damn balloon basically
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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That sounds like wheel hop, not the trans mount lol

Having said my peace about the trans mount itself, you could look into solid mounting the trans crossmember to the body. I fabricated a custom crossmember to do away with the isolated stock one, you don’t need to go that far, could probably just use washers and stuff in place of the rubber but there aren’t the kind of adverse effects with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah bouncing has nothing to do with the transmission. Thats all rear suspension stuff.


Have you installed those solid K member mounts yet or not?
i installed a solid one, that’s what the rock auto website said. It didn’t seam that much more solid if you ask me. And I’m not sure what you mean solid kmember mounts, our K solar easy solid mount right?
That sounds like wheel hop, not the trans mount lol

Having said my peace about the trans mount itself, you could look into solid mounting the trans crossmember to the body. I fabricated a custom crossmember to do away with the isolated stock one, you don’t need to go that far, could probably just use washers and stuff in place of the rubber but there aren’t the kind of adverse effects with it

washers you say? I got the polybushings from scp and inever thought about using washers to solid mount it. How would I do it just grab a fat stack washers that size and boot em down?
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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I’m thinking large washers to space it to the right height between the crossmember and unibody, smaller diameter washers about the size of the hole to fill the space of the bushing and locate it and another pair of larger washers(the stock ones will work) to sandwich it all together
 

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i installed a solid one, that’s what the rock auto website said. It didn’t seam that much more solid if you ask me. And I’m not sure what you mean solid kmember mounts, our K solar easy solid mount right?
Subframe sorry. I get them mixed up.
The rear subframe that by now has 25yo rubber bushings. Did you swap them for aluminum or delrin or have you left them? Cause if you left them, thats the "bouncing". Im guessing under hard accel, burnouts, or spirited corner cutting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I’m thinking large washers to space it to the right height between the crossmember and unibody, smaller diameter washers about the size of the hole to fill the space of the bushing and locate it and another pair of larger washers(the stock ones will work) to sandwich it all together
I see what you mean, som that fill the hole of the crossmember and some bigger ones to sand which em all together. Thanks for the tip! Gonna have to hit the local store. Do you have any pic of your crossmember? Sounds cool!


Subframe sorry. I get them mixed up.
The rear subframe that by now has 25yo rubber bushings. Did you swap them for aluminum or delrin or have you left them? Cause if you left them, thats the "bouncing". Im guessing under hard accel, burnouts, or spirited corner cutting?
Not yet I have some aluminum ones that I’ve been too lazy to install and I do t have room to do it, lame I know! No, it’s not under those conditions, wheel hop isn’t so much an issue. It’s more like freeway driving street driving the car bumps a little bit more than it should. I can feel the trans lifting and dropping slightly, I’m pretty fine tuned to my senses so I can feel it. Not to toot my own horn haha. After I replaced the old one with this solid one it went down a lot but still not to where I would like
 

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Just imagine what bill would sell that for, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

What do you guys think of using an exhaust hanger bushing for that trans mount i have in mind, it’ll get sandwiched between the crossmember and a nut and washer set to the stock hight. These seem soft enough
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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How’s it work? It looks like it’s grabbing the frame rail?
Not the best angle but the only pic readily available of it but the thick sections are bolted to C shaped channels that mount to the stock crossmember mounts as well as transmission mount. The zinc bolts are holding the unit together. I copied the design from American Powertrain's X factor crossmember,
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not the best angle but the only pic readily available of it but the thick sections are bolted to C shaped channels that mount to the stock crossmember mounts as well as transmission mount. The zinc bolts are holding the unit together. I copied the design from American Powertrain's X factor crossmember,
I see, so the outer edges are still on by the stock bolt location? what are the benefits of running this instead of the factory crossmember? The stocker is flimsy as can be.
 

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That’s a shame. I’ve seen over in the mustang world they use poly mounts to solid mount em. I did have a buddy that broke his tail shaft but it was due to redline clutch dumps haha. I feel as if the car bounces due to the weakness of this mount. After recently swapping the bouncing has improved a lot but I feel it’s not enough.
IF the transmission is bouncing enough for you to feel it - consider solid motor mounts.

It's a triangle; leave the transmission mount factory, and solid mount at the motor, it won't bounce around.

If there IS any bounce, it won't be the transmission ...

RwP
 
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